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All around DD build

csailors said:
IDK where you get your information but it is ridiculous.
2k would cover 2 times over what a WJ swap costs to do.
The braking aspect alone makes it worth it to most who do it.
WJ is also tried and true. And a better option if you do anything other than jump speed bumps at the mall.

As far as LP to HP. The LP will be fine for what hes looking to do. That would be a wasteful upgrade going to another 30 either way.

agreed, an XJ is capable. But it makes sense to start with the basics that make the rig more safe to operate currently and also once more mods are done you don't waste money doing the same job again.

Again with 33s like the OP wants, do not slack on the brakes, or steering as that size tires puts considerable more stress on steering and frame components.

most guys always go for appearance over function. 8" lift, 35s, giant bumpers and all kinds of light bars.

Neglecting that the steering, brakes, and frame all need attention to use these items to be what i would consider a reliable safe DD for hauling my family, and keeping fellow motorist safe.
Click to expand...

Yep ridiculous alright......

http://www.stinkyfab.com/vehicle-specific/jeep/xj-mj/sfr-high-roller-steering-big-brake-kit.html

Not saying it isn't a great upgrade and sure you could probably do it cheaper than 2k with searching around. Just wouldn't be my starting point on a build for a capable daily.
 
csailors said:
IDK where you get your information but it is ridiculous.
2k would cover 2 times over what a WJ swap costs to do.
The braking aspect alone makes it worth it to most who do it.
WJ is also tried and true. And a better option if you do anything other than jump speed bumps at the mall.

As far as LP to HP. The LP will be fine for what hes looking to do. That would be a wasteful upgrade going to another 30 either way.

agreed, an XJ is capable. But it makes sense to start with the basics that make the rig more safe to operate currently and also once more mods are done you don't waste money doing the same job again.

Again with 33s like the OP wants, do not slack on the brakes, or steering as that size tires puts considerable more stress on steering and frame components.

most guys always go for appearance over function. 8" lift, 35s, giant bumpers and all kinds of light bars.

Neglecting that the steering, brakes, and frame all need attention to use these items to be what i would consider a reliable safe DD for hauling my family, and keeping fellow motorist safe.
Click to expand...

so... bigger brakes are an absolute must, or nuns on their way to the kitty convention will die a firey death but 33s on stock gearing is fine? you made the statement that he would be fine with stock gearing in his area, and im sure others do it as well. but id be willing to bet that 99% of them have stock brakes as well.

good pads, good rotors, and a properly bled system should stop 33s adequately for most people. the WJ stuff is nice, but i agree with smokeyyank that it wouldnt be my first order of business. 33s without gears on the other hand brings the suck. your motor and trans have to work overtime. i did it, it sucks... drive a geared rig if you want to be persuaded.
 
I'm not sure WJ or 'bigger brakes' are even necessary on 33's anyway. I can lock up my 33's with stock caliper up front and ceramic pads and new rear DRUM brake hardware set up correctly. I can also still lock them up on stock ZJ discs in the rear using ceramics. I did the disc change because I think they look cleaner and are easier to maintain, not because I felt I needed more brakes.
 
minegun2 said:
What would be a good way to add a extra inch to already existing 3in lift?

Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Spacers and longer shackle are the easiest way. Assuming you don't already have spacers up front. Now you're getting into height territory where it starts to become a hassle to get in and making multiple stops on a trip becomes an annoyance.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
so... bigger brakes are an absolute must, or nuns on their way to the kitty convention will die a firey death but 33s on stock gearing is fine? you made the statement that he would be fine with stock gearing in his area, and im sure others do it as well. but id be willing to bet that 99% of them have stock brakes as well.

good pads, good rotors, and a properly bled system should stop 33s adequately for most people. the WJ stuff is nice, but i agree with smokeyyank that it wouldnt be my first order of business. 33s without gears on the other hand brings the suck. your motor and trans have to work overtime. i did it, it sucks... drive a geared rig if you want to be persuaded.
Click to expand...


The upgrade is for the steering. Better braking is a bonus. Steering is more important then stopping any day of the week.

On gearing. Correct. It Can be done. As can lots of things. Is it the best way? No. But this is Merica and by god we can indanger complete strangers with our incompetency on our builds causing kittens and nuns to burn firey deaths.
You'll never have an axle twist from torque from a hard launch in your 4.0 Cherokee with 33s I doubt. but I can gaurauntee that at some point you'll get consistent bump steer and have a moment when you wish you had more brakes. You won't hurt anyone taking off fast in an un geared XJ. Steering and stopping a lifted one in a much needed evasive driving situation is another story.

But I agree on gearing. 33 or larger it's manditory. But I believe other supporting mods should come first.
 
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dan1977p said:
Spacers and longer shackle are the easiest way. Assuming you don't already have spacers up front. Now you're getting into height territory where it starts to become a hassle to get in and making multiple stops on a trip becomes an annoyance.
Click to expand...
Only reason why I'm asking is cause when I start adding armor to the front and rear and sides and the winch I know it's going to add a little weight. So I wanted to add a inch or mabye even half in to compensate for the extra weight being added on to it.

Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk
 
Being able to lock up your brakes is NO indication of brake performance. Most motorhomes can lock up brakes but they go into brake fade really easy. Big brakes cut stopping distance, that's a fact, at least if you know how to use them. Especially if you're hauling weight.
 
smokeyyank said:
Yep ridiculous alright......

http://www.stinkyfab.com/vehicle-specific/jeep/xj-mj/sfr-high-roller-steering-big-brake-kit.html

Not saying it isn't a great upgrade and sure you could probably do it cheaper than 2k with searching around. Just wouldn't be my starting point on a build for a capable daily.
Click to expand...

I just did the WJ conversion with all new parts(except the knuckles) for under 500$. I originally bought new knuckles but they were made wrong so I ended up at the p-n-p! They are worth every penny in stopping power!
P1080478_zpsubtwxyv0.jpg
 
RCP Phx said:
I just did the WJ conversion with all new parts(except the knuckles) for under 500$. I originally bought new knuckles but they were made wrong so I ended up at the p-n-p! They are worth every penny in stopping power!
P1080478_zpsubtwxyv0.jpg
Click to expand...

Did you upgrade the steering and track bar too or just the brakes/knuckles and reuse stock style steering?
 
Kyle96 said:
Did you upgrade the steering and track bar too or just the brakes/knuckles and reuse stock style steering?
Click to expand...

I didn't do the steering, mine has been perfect for the last 16yrs w/ 33"s @ 5-1/2"s.
 
cherokeefan_1 said:
Being able to lock up your brakes is NO indication of brake performance. Most motorhomes can lock up brakes but they go into brake fade really easy. Big brakes cut stopping distance, that's a fact, at least if you know how to use them. Especially if you're hauling weight.
Click to expand...

Not completely accurate, brake fade is a result of MOVING rotors and heat generated as a result. Brake lock has more to do with incorrect rim size and shitty tires under too much weight. I can lock the brakes on my track car with crappy DOTs in a heartbeat, but would have to stand on the pedal to even have a shot with slicks. Don't get me wrong brake clamp strength is extremely important, but I could just as easily flip your statement and say if you know how to properly drive you wouldn't need big brakes on an XJ. Its a10yr+ old SUV with soft suspension, emergency braking shouldn't be a regular occurrence. If anything you'd see similar improvements stiffening up the front coils and shocks to prevent the crazy big dive XJs see under heavy load transfers, ala braking. Under normal driving a quality set of pads/rotors/good fluid and decent grip tires will be all you need at the discussed tire size.

And to clarify I don't think anyone on here is saying it isn't an improvement, BUT based on the OPs desires I think most are saying it isn't a requirement to be a safe DD and that money could be best spent elsewhere.
 
Tampa_XJ said:
Not completely accurate, brake fade is a result of MOVING rotors and heat generated as a result. Brake lock has more to do with incorrect rim size and shitty tires under too much weight. I can lock the brakes on my track car with crappy DOTs in a heartbeat, but would have to stand on the pedal to even have a shot with slicks. Don't get me wrong brake clamp strength is extremely important, but I could just as easily flip your statement and say if you know how to properly drive you wouldn't need big brakes on an XJ. Its a10yr+ old SUV with soft suspension, emergency braking shouldn't be a regular occurrence. If anything you'd see similar improvements stiffening up the front coils and shocks to prevent the crazy big dive XJs see under heavy load transfers, ala braking. Under normal driving a quality set of pads/rotors/good fluid and decent grip tires will be all you need at the discussed tire size.

And to clarify I don't think anyone on here is saying it isn't an improvement, BUT based on the OPs desires I think most are saying it isn't a requirement to be a safe DD and that money could be best spent elsewhere.
Click to expand...

I just use that as an example since that's what most here think for these cars and I don't think brake fade is even remotely a possibility on a daily driven XJ. Sure, throw a 5000lb trailer on the back and go down some 20% grades without a clue how to downshift, and I'll give you brake fade. And no, I don't recommend that scenario but someone is bound to do it.
 
csailors said:
The upgrade is for the steering. Better braking is a bonus. Steering is more important then stopping any day of the week.

On gearing. Correct. It Can be done. As can lots of things. Is it the best way? No. But this is Merica and by god we can indanger complete strangers with our incompetency on our builds causing kittens and nuns to burn firey deaths.
You'll never have an axle twist from torque from a hard launch in your 4.0 Cherokee with 33s I doubt. but I can gaurauntee that at some point you'll get consistent bump steer and have a moment when you wish you had more brakes. You won't hurt anyone taking off fast in an un geared XJ. Steering and stopping a lifted one in a much needed evasive driving situation is another story.

But I agree on gearing. 33 or larger it's manditory. But I believe other supporting mods should come first.
Click to expand...

see quote below... at a reasonable lift height the stock steering geometry does not pose an issue. is the stock tie rod a limp noodle? yes. are there issues associated with the operating angles when articulated? yes. is the geometry ideal? no. but if you have issues going down the road the issues doesnt lie in the sole fact that you are using inverted Y steering...

if you want to fight the good fight... im sure the TJ guys would love to hear it.



RCP Phx said:
I didn't do the steering, mine has been perfect for the last 16yrs w/ 33"s @ 5-1/2"s.
Click to expand...
 
I brake fade my xj towing just my 700lbs utility trailer. We have twisty steep roads here in the PNW, even with 15 mph speed limits it'll go into fade. That's with good pads, not black magic good but good power stop or EBC pads. Same result with Wagner premium. I've had the Jeep for 10 years and over 150k miles. Brakes are nothing special. Factory disc brakes on my Chevelle are just as good(bad?) You are right big brakes are not "needed" to safely DD an xj but they can help make it even safer, they were on my list to do next but a semi blowing a red light ended my jeeps life, and almost mine.
 
I had 2 issues with mine................
Towing a 3500# trailer,,,,,,,,,,,,,and
I could drive thru my brakes because of the low gearing!
 
I appreciate all the info fellas. Its gonna be a while before i do the WJ brake upgrade. I think some high quality pads and new rotors should be sufficient.

I have decided on a 3" lift. Just need to pick the best brand for my application. As much as i want an OME lift, its not in the budget. For wheels, i have decided to go with the 17" Grey and machined face Rubicon wheels or if i can find them the 16" moabs so i don't have to buy spacers. The 16" Moabs are hard to find in my neck of the woods. With the 17" Rubicon wheels, the stock tires should sit at 32-32.5 inches tall which is perfect for my dd needs.

Ill focus on frame stiffening, and steering upgrades after the lift. For the lift kit, my two main areas of improvement that I'm looking for is Shock quality and a full leaf setup. I need the lift to be robust enough for JCR front and rear bumpers as well as a roof rack.

So far, RC seems to be the most complete, budget friendly 3" lift option. If you know of a full leaf kit with better shocks at an affordable price, list it.

Thanks again for the wealth of knowledge.
 
I don't believe they ever made a 17" in 5 x 4.5"!
Even if they did your not going to get any tire sizes worth a F*** unless your building a lowrider.
 
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