Team NAXJA/Petty Cash Racing stock class KOH XJ build

[XJ_ranger]

Hard to believe this tie rod has only one race on it. 1.5x.250" DOM..

Given the lack of rock rash, and the location of the ram clamp being coincident with the bend area, I'd say that the ram bent it.

Might check the shims in the ram to make sure they're still there.

I'm sure you would have if there was room, but I prefer to have the ram bolted to the axle and the knuckle and avoid the tie rod / ram connection if possible.

Looks like you guys are having a good time. Keep up the good work.

 

[rockclimber]

I'm sure you would have if there was room, but I prefer to have the ram bolted to the axle and the knuckle and avoid the tie rod / ram connection if possible.

Looks like you guys are having a good time. Keep up the good work.

there is not room on a D30 knuckle to do it, WJ or standard.

 

[cal]

there is not room on a D30 knuckle to do it, WJ or standard.

Sure there is, but we want to spread the load between both knuckles instead of putting it all on one.

The ram has been moved since the last photo, I'll get some pictures and update it later.

 

[rockclimber]

Sure there is, but we want to spread the load between both knuckles instead of putting it all on one.

The ram has been moved since the last photo, I'll get some pictures and update it later.

I'd like to see that.

 

[nosigma]

I just spent the evening looking at the front bumper build. I understand all the plating, tubes and attachments made except for one:

The plate that fits over the stock lower valence panel where the factory winch option would have attached.



It appears to be tacked and skip welded to the factory front valence and I assume the outer edges are welded to the plates that run down the sides of the frame. The factory bolt holes at the front of the frame horns do not appear to be used.

The primary tension load path is through the plates that run down the outside of the frame, and the set up has worked well for you so I am not doubting its strength.

Question 1:
Are those tack welds and the welds that attach it to the plates coming off the frame rail all that hold the valence cover plate to the factory valence panel or is it tied in somewhere else that I just dont see?

Question 2:
Is the primary purpose of this plate to support the winch mounting plate so it does not bend under load (I cant see any welds between the two but I assume they are there)?

John

 

[GrimmJeeper]

maybe to act as a little bit of protection to the antirock bar?

 

[cal]

No, the antirock didn't exist when we built the car, added that season 2.

To be honest John, I have no idea why that plate is there.


The car is with Richard for some suspension work, when it comes home (this weekend) I'll snap a dozen or two good photos of that region for you.

 

[nosigma]

No, the antirock didn't exist when we built the car, added that season 2.

To be honest John, I have no idea why that plate is there.


The car is with Richard for some suspension work, when it comes home (this weekend) I'll snap a dozen or two good photos of that region for you.

Cal,

I suspect you have better things to do than shoot pictures and post them right now so please dont put the time into it. I need to build a bumper and the one you have on that rig is the slickest and best thought out tube/winch bumper I have seen. Still deciding what to do so there is NO urgency to any of this.

I know how I would answer the questions if I was building it, so the questions are more academic (what was done and why) than essential.

Q1: A Tie it in to the frame plates with continuous welds, skip weld to the valence all around.
This would restrict chassis flex greatly (something I am now on the warpath against) by forcing the plate in front of the valence into shear before there could be any relative up-down movement of the frame horns.

Q2: A Continuous bead between the winch mounting plate and the plate in front of the valence. to prevent and twisting of the winch mounting plate under load.

Thanks for the reply, now get back to work.

John

 

[cal]

Meh. We've just been drinking beer and playing with springs.

Deaver Q80 leafs. 104" wheelbase. 14" easy wheel travel, and could squeeze more out of it if we could run longer shocks. This is what inspired the HP60 rear swap - the driveshaft didnt droop far enough for the LP44.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

beautiful.


those tires sure look a lot bigger now that it's sitting a bit lower.

 

[cal]

Hmm. The rear is buttoned up and settled.

Now this is the real question..

 

[Jes]

Looks good at the lowered ride height and tender coils on the front... that's new.

Let me know how you guys like the throttle body. :cheers:

 

[cal]

Yeah, I thought Richard was crazy when he suggested it, but it does give us the full shock travel sprung, instead of having a coil unseated for the last couple inches. I'm sold.


Throttle body is awesome!

 

[XJLI]

the wheelbase stretch is ok under class rules?

 

[cal]

+/- 3" from stock

 

[TORX]

Subscribed.

Car looks awesome guys! I'll try and track you down on the lake bed in a few weeks to check out this grocery getter in person.

 

[K.Hess]

I just spent the evening looking at the front bumper build. I understand all the plating, tubes and attachments made except for one:

The plate that fits over the stock lower valence panel where the factory winch option would have attached.



It appears to be tacked and skip welded to the factory front valence and I assume the outer edges are welded to the plates that run down the sides of the frame. The factory bolt holes at the front of the frame horns do not appear to be used.

The primary tension load path is through the plates that run down the outside of the frame, and the set up has worked well for you so I am not doubting its strength.

Question 1:
Are those tack welds and the welds that attach it to the plates coming off the frame rail all that hold the valence cover plate to the factory valence panel or is it tied in somewhere else that I just dont see?

Question 2:
Is the primary purpose of this plate to support the winch mounting plate so it does not bend under load (I cant see any welds between the two but I assume they are there)?

John

I might be able to help out on this one.
Q1;the plate on both sides of the horns are completely welded, we were trying to brace the stock cross bar and the plate is in shear to each side. it is also stitch welded on the inside as well.
Q2; the support for the winch plate comes from the tube work you see in the picture as well as the rest of the bumper.

This may help:

this is what I recall from when I was helping Richard build the bumper. I also have a couple other pictures that show the bumper from different angles

 

[XJMarty]

cool rig!

 

[cal]

Well, since the fitment tests look good, its time to commit.

Off with the old bumpstops.

You can see the original sheet metal through the hole in the reinforcement we added. I never expected to see that part of the car again..

Minor correction to the geometry for the extended bumpstops

Some 2x.250 DOM and a little plate work

Burn baby

Looks snug

Boom.

 

[cal]

Just a little bit tall, so pulled it back apart and cut half of a coil off.

Limit straps in, some screen door springs to keep the brake lines away from the shocks, and we're ready to race.