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Aftermarket Steering

Why because it didn't work for you? There are hundreds it has work for. If currie was so great everybody and their mom would be using it dont you think?..

No, inverted T is a bad design. You can't really debate that not having direct input on the knuckles is good.

Currie is a great bolt on solution, and there are thousands of rigs running it.

There Are better setups if you are interested in custom fab, but you aren't spending less than 400$ on any of them. Even if you don't factor in the amount of time it will take you.
 
i have about 200 into my crossover steering. 1 ton offset TRE's and 3/8" wall 1.25 DOM.
 
Serious off-road actually PMed me and showed me their 1-ton steering set up. it looks like a good bang for the buck. i like how they use a taper whihc makes drilling the knuckles with a 7/8 bit much easier lol

can someone explain this "flat spot" better to me, i believe i get it in my jeep now. If im pulling out of a parallel parking spot and not moving i can feel the steering like struggling and it gets like dead for a second, i would assume that is what the flat spot is? while driving its fine though.
 
i have about 200 into my crossover steering. 1 ton offset TRE's and 3/8" wall 1.25 DOM.

Including the trackbar relocation, the WJ knuckles, and the other components to make the WJ swap work?
 
Oh, no, that doesn't count. just the actual steering components is what we're talking about...

why?
I could slap a bunch of steering components together for somewhere around 250$ but making them actually function on the front of an XJ will cost more in both time and cash.

and the design would still suck.
 
can someone explain this "flat spot" better to me, i believe i get it in my jeep now. If im pulling out of a parallel parking spot and not moving i can feel the steering like struggling and it gets like dead for a second, i would assume that is what the flat spot is? while driving its fine though.

the dead spot from inverted T comes from the misalignment of the tie-rod joints.

with inverted T, the drag link is affecting the tie-rod, not the knuckle directly. so instead of moving the knuckle, the joints on the Tie-rod misalign to their max capacity before transmitting any force to the knuckle.

the dead spot is the distance the drag link travels before the joints are misaligned fully.
 
ah that makes sense, now with the spacers to kill "it" doesnt that limit the TRE?

SAI (steering axis inclination) makes those spacers are a terrible idea. if they aren't strong enough to damage the TRE, they aren't strong enough to dampen the tie-rod roll.

when I had inverted T with poly spacers, I did a small test, I unbolted the drivers side TRE from the knuckle, then I swung the steering all the way to one direction. the SAI on the D30 made the TRE sit 6" above the knuckle.
 
so more or less what your getting is the TRE rolling before it moves the steering, how come you dont get this with stock?
 
so more or less what your getting is the TRE rolling before it moves the steering, how come you dont get this with stock?

with stock, the drag link connects directly to the knuckle. same as currie or a crossover setup.
 
when you had the drive side tie-rod disconnected which way did you turn the passenger side knuckle? asking because if you turned it to the right wouldnt you get more turn before it stops than turning it to the left causing a more drastic change in the readings you got?
 
when you had the drive side tie-rod disconnected which way did you turn the passenger side knuckle? asking because if you turned it to the right wouldnt you get more turn before it stops than turning it to the left causing a more drastic change in the readings you got?


I turned the drivers knuckle until it was against the steering stop (toward passenger) then I pulled the passenger knuckle until the TRE was directly over the drivers hole.
 
did you have OTK or UTK steering? were you saying that the poly spacers made it worse? and wouldnt ones caster and camber affect that SAI causing the rise in that number you got?
 
SAI (steering axis inclination) makes those spacers are a terrible idea. if they aren't strong enough to damage the TRE, they aren't strong enough to dampen the tie-rod roll.

when I had inverted T with poly spacers, I did a small test, I unbolted the drivers side TRE from the knuckle, then I swung the steering all the way to one direction. the SAI on the D30 made the TRE sit 6" above the knuckle.
I've sold damn near 70 Serious Steering Kits in the last 2 years and have NEVER had a SINGLE complaint about excessive tie-rod roll or spacers negatively affecting steering.
 
that's because all the customers died in a firey crash when their inverted t spontaniously combusted.
If you love your family, you will not buy an inverted t steering setup.
 
thats a bold statement with bold words contradicting the statistics of how many people run inverted T steering and drive home to their families everyday.
 
I've sold damn near 70 Serious Steering Kits in the last 2 years and have NEVER had a SINGLE complaint about excessive tie-rod roll or spacers negatively affecting steering.

that means nothing. you would be surprised at how many people will deal with a crappy handling rig in order to not have to admit they don't like the way they spent their money.

I've purposely ignored your posts, you support the club, and I'd prefer not to make it look like I'm bashing a vendor but if you want to argue whether or not the steering you sell is good design, you'll lose.

inverted T is the easy, and cheap way out. its hardly an ideal solution and its drawbacks far outweigh its gains.

there is only one way to make inverted T liveable, and thats to put a ram on the tie-rod. that will ease off some of the dead spot, but it will not make it go away.

thats a bold statement with bold words contradicting the statistics of how many people run inverted T steering and drive home to their families everyday.

you should probably re-read his statement with a large amount of sarcasm.

that's because all the customers died in a firey crash when their inverted t spontaniously combusted.
If you love your family, you will not buy an inverted t steering setup.
 
Im still trying to justify your test. If youre blaming SAI for the the reason for your tie-rod end to be higher arent you missing one of the most valuable variables of SAI and alignment which is the weight shift of the vehicle while in a turn? if you dont have that weight shift in your test which would leave the body at ride height wouldnt that change the measurement? and go to show a flaw in the geometry and measurements of the steering?

Im not bashing you what so ever just figuring this out as much as I can. Im only asking because I'm working on inverted T on my jeep.
 
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