• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

D30 Aussie Locker Question

The only diff leak that i'm aware of is the pinion seal.

I'm going to check the fluid level again after work tomorrow if I don't get home too late.
 
Ive changed the oil in my diff ~3 times since ive installed mine. It has always made that noise.. So its not the fluid level in my case.

What oil are you running? Maybe some thicker oil would be beneficial.
 
Not sure what was in it before, but yesterday I put in 85W-140. The fact that it was quiet for a little bit, then got loud again has me perplexed....
 
I had the same issue with noise when I first installed my Aussie. I called tech support with my installation specs and measurements, and was told that everything was within their specifications. The tech recommended I try some Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the diff (I used 1/4-1/2 of the bottle) and things quieted down a lot. Interim checks after "break-in" show everything to be find.

I'll try to dig out the name and number of the guy I spoke with.
 
Did you ask the guy you bought the axle from if he had the same noise? Is he close enough that he could ride along or take it for a run to see if it behaves the same on yours that it did on his?
 
Probably Bill C. I sent them a copy of this video last week and he suggested the same of checking oil level.

I'm going to check it again tonight when I get home. If it's low (again), i'll fill it back up (again) and go from there.

Edit: Chris mentioned that it clicked mainly in reverse, but oddly enough, that's where I DON'T hear it.
 
Checked it again, nice and full, just like I left it yesterday. It was definitely noticeably quieter when I first drove it this evening, from sitting since last night.

Guess i'll just keep an eye on it for now and see what happens. May try pulling to the front driveshaft to see what that does.
 
Got a break in the rain and was able to pull the front shaft off tonight after work. This did take care of the excessive noise, but the more I thought about it before hand, that makes perfect sense. With no front shaft, there's zero chance of any sort of power what so ever being sent to the front wheels (regardless of automatic hubs and being in 2wd).

The front shaft is the original on my Jeep, with all original parts that have 161K on them. I know it could stand a rebuild simply as a result of age and mileage, but there's no binding in any of the u-joints at all. That being said, while I have it off now i'm going to go ahead and rebuild it.

Today is about 35-40 degrees colder than it was this weekend when I was working on it, so I took it out for a good drive to get all the fluids warmed up, and it still remained quiet. I could hear the faintest (VERY faint) clicking during sharp turns, but that's exactly what I expect from a locker.

Still bouncing e-mails back and forth with customer support at Aussie, so i'll keep this updated as I go. And I have to say, Aussie's customer service has been excellent. Currently have two different reps working together with me to try and figure all this out.
 
It's odd that the noise would go away when you pulled the driveshaft out, but it made more sense when you said it was colder outside.

Instead of 85-140, you might consider 85-90w. A thicker gear oil when it's hot out might be what you should have instead of the thinner version.
 
For as little as I drive it now, and lack of $$$, I'll probably leave the 85-140w in there.

I'm pretty much at the point now of rebuilding the front driveshaft, throwing it back on, and saying screw it if it continues to make a bunch of noise. From what i've read on here in searching, this thread, and people i've asked...it seems to be split down the middle. Half say that theirs is noisy and half say that it isn't...so at least i'm not the only one.
 
You positive your t-case ain't stuck in 4wd?

This was probably recommended by Aussie already, but did you do their check test to see if the locker is functioning as it should and also if the gap is within specs?
 
Positive it's not stuck in 4x4.

If the gap weren't set properly, wouldn't it make a bunch of noise even with the front driveshaft out?

Aussie wants me to drain all the fluid out of the case and do my parking lot tests to see if the oil in the case is part of the problem, but I can't see how it would be, nor do I want to fool with draining and refilling the case.

I guess i'll just leave every thing alone and try not to be so paranoid :eeks1:
 
How many miles does this locker have on it? I have had 3 Aussies in D-30's and they were all annoying as hell until they broke in good. I suggest driving it for a while and wheel the poop out of it!

I ran Lucas 80-90 in mine. I now have a full case Detroit for extra strength. That puny little D-30 carrier will leave you stranded if you beat to hard on it!
 
To be honest i'm not really sure. I'm the third owner of this axle with the locker installed. The member I bought it from also bought it already installed from someone else. I think it's got at least 5-6K on it from what the PO I bought it from put on it.

Also let it be known that I have a NP242 case in my Jeep, but I run 2wd on the street (obviously), and don't plan on using the full time feature anymore, now that I have the Aussie and a LSD in the rear. Matter of fact, I see myself probably swapping in an NP231 come spring time.
 
Positive it's not stuck in 4x4.

If the gap weren't set properly, wouldn't it make a bunch of noise even with the front driveshaft out?

Aussie wants me to drain all the fluid out of the case and do my parking lot tests to see if the oil in the case is part of the problem, but I can't see how it would be, nor do I want to fool with draining and refilling the case.

I guess i'll just leave every thing alone and try not to be so paranoid :eeks1:

Have you checked it? I mean like putting it on 4 stands and running it in gear to see if the front yoke is spinning?
 
No I haven't...but i've never had problems with it being stuck in 4wd, and everything was completely fine before the axle swap, so I can't really see how swapping axles would make it all of a sudden catch 4wd?
 
Got a couple more heads together and we're all in agreement that since I have a NP242, it's the coupler in the case for the full time option that's still sending a little bit of power to the front. I had planned to eventually swap in a 231 anyways, so I guess i'll speed up that process.

Also discovered the pinion bearing is bad on the front end, so I can imagine that's probably not helping things either. For now, when I have to drive it, the front shaft is out and only put back in when I need it.
 
So I've done a lot of thinking about all of this in the last month, as well as driven it a bit more for diagnosis. I've pretty much come to this conclusion:

1. Swap the 242 for a 231. Was going to eventually do this anyways, but having a locker now will speed up this process....

2. Planning on a full rebuild due to the following:
  • Due to being run with little to no oil prior to my acquiring, I'm hearing lots of not-so-nice noises (mainly from bearings).
  • Right hub bearing is shot. I'll be replacing both.
  • Pinion bearing is shot (has play in it).
  • 1/2-3/4" of backlash.
Luckily I don't DD this anymore, so during the week it pretty much sits. I drive it locally once or twice a week to keep it running, maybe take it to the mountains once or twice this winter. Given this, I should be able to get it through winter and into spring so it'll be warmer for doing all the work.
 
Bring it to Tennessee. Plenty of warm shops to work on it this winter!!
 
1/2-3/4" of backlash??? I'm far from an axle expert but are you sure there is that much? I would think you would have to have gear teeth missing for it to be that much
 
Back
Top