PLEASE help with ball joint/knuckle install!...

Just got done changing the ball joints and am trying to figure out what to do with the split ring (adjustment sleeve) in the bottom of the knuckle. I have heard mixed things about it. Some say that it should be set to .2 inches of depth (as per FSM)...is this .2 inches DOWN from the top of the knuckle, or .2 inches UP from the bottom of the knuckle?

Others say that it is for adjustment purposes and I should first tighten the top nut then tighten the split ring tight, then tighten the bottom nut. I have tried both ways (first being .2 inches up from the bottom of the knuckle) and as I start getting things tight the knuckle gets ridiculously hard to move back and forth...what's wrong? What sequence do I tighten the nuts and what do I do with the split ring? Doesnt seem right that the knuckle should be hard to turn like that....please help, need to get my jeep going for tomorrow. Thanks.

so I figured out something...found that on the new lower ball joints I installed the stud doesn't turn very easy. Basically, the stud turns with the knuckle after its been tightened but mine doesn't turn very easy back and forth (like the knuckle moves) even without the knuckle on...so with no pressure on them.

The top ones move pretty easy, and even my old lowers I took out move easy. So I'm sure that this is why the knuckle doesn't move very easy when they are tightened down. What I'm not sure about is if they will break in, or if there is something wrong with them...

Also, still not sure where the split ring should be positioned...anybody?

I've never done a D-30 kit and installed any split ring.

I just remove the old Joints and press in the new ones. It shouldn't be a complicated process unless you are installing "cammed" or adjustable ball joints.

I have recieved a few MOOG ball joint kits with "extra parts" that include a snap ring, but you don't need it for the D-30 application.

Where are you in Wa? Or do you have any pics?

that ring is for ball joint pre-load. that's why you are supposed to install the new one so you can adjust it properly. i don't remember the exact specs off top of my head though. i'll post back later if i can find it. unless somebody else posts first.

well as per the service manual it says .2 inches in depth...dont know if this is down or up, but I think I'm going to do it .2 inches from the bottom up.

Just still a little confused about the knuckle being so hard to turn...anybody else thats done this know if the knuckle was hard to turn at first, and just needs to break in?

KarlVP...I'm in Puyallup.

My old Haynes shows the measurement (.206 inches, according to them) being made from the outside, using a depth gauge from bottom to the castellated face of the seat. Here's the illustration:

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KarlVP, if you've dealt with later models, there is no split ring on them. At some point there was a design change, and the later ones use a sliding top joint, with no preload.

Cool...appreciate it. Thats how I went ahead and did it, off an educated guess

thanks for confirming...

I am in the middle of this same repair on an '89. While pulling the old upper the entire shaft came out of the joint (newer sliding style perhaps???) and the lower was dried out and sloppy. The new upper does not appear to be a sliding one and the lower came with a new split ring. So the procedure from the old Hayes should be the one.

The question I have is what is the "proper" way to remove the split ring?

So much for proper...I ended up torching a piece of steel into a blade that fit the slots and tightened it until it came out the other side. Everything seemed to go back together OK except the castle nuts didn't reach torque until the the castle nuts were tighter that the cotter pin hole in the TRE, so the pin was less than 50% in the castle's slots. My fix was to add a washer between the nut and the suface of the knuckle. Does this mean that I should have moved the split ring up the distance of the washer? Thanks!

0.2 worked just fine for me

this is what i used on my spare dana30 when i rebuilt it:



OTC #7080

from madxj.com

rag said:

0.2 worked just fine for me

this is what i used on my spare dana30 when i rebuilt it:

OTC #7080

from madxj.com

Click to expand...

look what i found whiile browsing for new tool box toy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Automotive-TooLs-Ball-Joint-Spanner-Socket-Wrench_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43993QQihZ019QQitemZ290221252952QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

It's too bad they don't include a set of the tools with each vehicle purchased. It's always fun when you get an old motorcycle or tractor or something like that and there's an old tool pouch along with it.

Anyhow, back to the other question, am I in trouble that I needed a washer on each ball joint to allow the castle nuts and holes to line up at 50 ft/lb torque?