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The "END-ALL" AC thread 97-01

darjevon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MemphisTN
Hey,

Let's face it. 97-01 Jeep ac systems really suck a fat one. The purpose of this thread is to simply gather together all the info needed to restore a factory system to good working condition. Problems mine had:

My E-fan was shot, and when it turned on my whole XJ would vibrate like a coin-operated bed in a sleazy hotel. I replaced it for $20 with a fan from ebay, and cut the stock shroud to fit. The thread can be found HERE:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=920264
However, I will probably swap in a bigger fan at some point, but it does work excellently.

My motor and tranny mounts were shot, and my mechanical fan was tossed into the "combination manifold" hoses. I replaced this whole assembly for $50 with this part from Autozone. the quality was absolutely excellent, I wouldn't hesitate to buy again.
Ready-Aire 34533

My accumulator was rusty and my liquid line was crimped (how, i'll never know) and I replaced both of these with parts from Autoairplus.com. The quality wasn't stellar but their prices are INCREDIBLE and the parts have held up just fine. this cost $40 for both.

My condenser was dented badly, I replaced this for 120 with a Modine part from Napa. Admittedly this was my fault, not Jeep's.

After all this, the AC worked, but would only hold a charge for three months, which brings me to today... I am about to replace my evaporator with a part from ACkits.com. It claims to be a factory replacement, but I am unsure. Anyway it's good quality, and I have tested it with my Mityvac at -24.5 psi for 3 hours, and it doesn't leak at all. This cost 78.

I am also buying a 240 pc HNBR rubber o ring kit from autozone, for $20.

I bought 8 oz Supercool PAG 150 oil. from ACkits.com aswell. As a side note, the factory calls for "sp-20" which is rare, equivalent to roughly ISO 135 PAG. So I have no doubt in my mind that 150 will hold up just fine. Others have used PAG 100 and had no problem.

I have acquired a flush gun and a vacuum pump, and I'll flush EVERYTHING, including the new evaporator, before reassembly. A vaccum pump is needed to evac the system and hold total vacuum for thirty minutes before charging. Also, to oil the system, it is best to drain the oil from the accumulator and compressor, flush everything else, then when adding the new oil (6 oz, no more no less) add half to the compressor and half to the accumulator. Then turn the compressor over by hand like 20 times to get the oil to start circulating, and keep the comp from lugging.

Problems I still have:

I cannot find the sealing washers for the place where the combination manifold hoses clamp on to the compressor. My old ones are useable, but not great, and I am intent on replacing EVERYTHING. Does anyone have a source on these? I bought a "2004-prior Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep" sealing washer kit from ACkits.com and it does not contain the right part. I also need the torque spec for the clamp bolt, aswell as the accumulator clamp bolt... hopefully these are in my FSM.

Sorry for the long post, but I hope this helps some people out. I am now going to look for some really good recharge instructions to add to the thread. Joe.
 
can you post a picture and dimensions of the seal you need? i can look through my picture catalogs at napa and see if can come up with a part number for you.
 
Grimm:

Sorry for the late reply. Measured with my flat micrometer (broken .27 walmart ruler) the seal is a 5/8 Internal diameter, 1 1/4 External diameter. It is HNBR (green), however - most of the similar items I've seen have been Neoprene (black). I'd bet anything that either one will do tho, as both materials have been used forever for AC stuff.

Thanks a ton man.


here's the photos... sry theyre a little dark...

 
Finally got around to fixing everything tonight. Defogs the windshield like nothing on earth. I used a postal scale to keep the fill level perfect... worked great.

As a follow-up on the parts I bought, I was happy with all of them except the orifice tube i got from autoairplus.com - it didn't fit even CLOSE to right and had to be bent like hell just to get it to work.

Let this prove that it is possible to get 97+ AC systems back to life and leak-free again with only basic tools, and air compressor, and a rented vacuum pump! :party:
 
This was a partial write-up I did about 6 months ago when changing my brother's in his '01. The one thing I didn't get was pictures, and when I'm forced to do it in my '99, I will. Anyway, here it is...
How to change a 1997-2001 XJ’s heater core or evaporator.
by: Collin McCormick

1. If it hasn’t all leaked out…have a shop discharge your A/C system.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable as always.
3. Slide seats all the way back.
4. Remove console (Phillips screwdriver).
5. Remove 2 bolts under where console was (13mm).
6. Remove dash bezel, cluster surround and dash pad (defroster panel) (Phillips).
7. Remove kneeblocker under steering column (Phillips).
8. Lower steering column as far as it will go by removing nuts on each side (Deep 14mm).
9. Remove the kickpanels on each side (Phillips screwdriver and deep 10mm or 11mm).
10. Remove bolts behind kick panels securing dash (15mm on some 13mm on other years).
11. Remove all bolts/nuts along windshield (10mm socket, wobble extensions)
12. At this point the dash should be free to be pulled out enough.
13. In the engine bay remove all 5 nuts securing heater box to the firewall (deep 11mm).
14. Remove hoses from heater core and using disconnect tool remove A/C lines from evaporator tubes. Also unplug vacuum line that’s coming out of the heater box foam block.
15. Back inside, unplug antenna connection and vacuum harness connection that comes from the climate control panel.
16. At this point the dash should be out far enough to jiggle the heater box out of the vehicle. If not, either try removing the steering wheel or whole column, but I’ve been able to do it without that being necessary. It is only the right side that needs to be pulled out, but the column does restrict it to a point.
17. Once the heater box is out set it on a stable surface. Start removing all bolts around the perimeter of it and on the top. Also remove the blower motor (All 8mm screws).
18. Slice the foam gaskets along the seam in the heater box with a razor blade or utility knife.
19. Open the box and replace the evaporator and/or heater core.
20. Installation is reverse of removal. I would be sure to use a little bit of sealant where the foam gaskets had to be sliced.

Disclaimer: This is only intended to be a guide to this project. I obviously may have forgotten a step and a bolt size may vary on your particular vehicle, this was done on a 2001 Cherokee Sport. Length of time to complete may vary from 5 hours if someone competent is doing it to 10 hours if the dealer is doing it…or wait, maybe they just charge you for 10 hours. There will be cussing and most likely bleeding during this project, unless you are a more patient person than I, and I have been told I am actually very patient. It is always a good idea to do a reality check to make sure the road still exists before you plan a trip on it being there, unless you’re in an XJ; drive on it anyways. Lastly, I absolutely am not affiliated with Chrysler LLC or whatever they’re going by these days. Good luck with this fun project!
 
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