Rear coils???

I will be redoing my floors and raising my fuel tank so it doesn't hang below the frame rails. I want to add as much ground clearance after the axle(D44) as possible.
My rear fenders are cut extensively and I should be able to have 6" of uptravel with 6" of down travel. 33" tires are what I have now, but will probably be replaced with 35" tires.

I'm working on a rear coil set-up for about 5" of lift. I plan on using XJ or ZJ front coils mounted outboard/notched into the frame. I'm planing on using a 3 link with a trackbar. The upper link will be centered over the rear diff.
For the trackbar the plan is a drivers side frame mount and a passenger side axle mount. This should help with exhaust routing. The rear shocks will be mounted behind the axle and outboard of the frame rails.

I will be plating the entire uniframe and adding the needed bracing for support. A full rollcage is also in the planned(JeepSpeed style).

Your opinions and input is welcome and if you can't post on this forum PM me. I can post your input myself...

The upper link doesn't really have to be centered...in fact you'll probably have a much easier time with clearances if you have it offset to one side.

Sounds about right, other than that.

When I said centered I figured I might need to offset it slightly for driveshaft clearance. I meant basicly centered...

Should I stick with 1.25" hiems for joints or will R.E. 2.5" joints hold it solid enough? I was thinking heims for the lower an R.E. joints for the upper.

I plan on using 2.5" R.E. joints for the track bar since room shouldn't be an issue.

This will be street driven.

Thanks for your reply

Well, you'll very rarely see any 3-links with the upper anywhere near center. They typically end up pretty far to one side or the other.

On mine I'm running 2.5" Johnny joints with 1" shank on the lowers and 5/8" x 3/4" heims on the upper and track bar. You can go smaller in both tube size and joint size on the upper and trackbar because you don't have to worry about it bending from the weight of the vehicle landing on it.

I've been lookinh at the 2.5" Johnny joints with the 1.25" shank. The 2" Johnny joints cost way more. If I stick with the same size joints less spare parts are needed. It's also cheaper to buy a full stick of DOM then short pieces.

I'll probably be building a matching front 3 link.