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87 Comanche RENIX Vacuum NIGHTMARE!!!

crazyjim

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SoCal
So it's time to smog this piece, and I can't do that with my bajillion vacuum leaks. The problem is, I know nothing about renix engines, and where the vacuum lines go? I have a bunch of leaks, I can hear the thing whistle at idle. Also, after I've been driving for a bit, once it warms up the engine idles way higher than it should, sometimes up to what sounds like 3k... and I can't stop it other than shutting it off.

Any help here? I'm completely prepared to spend the money I need on whatever I need, just need to know what. And all these stupid hard lines are brittle and breaking now. Great.


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Either browse the junkyards for parts in better condition, buy new at the dealership, or find pictures of an intact system and duplicate the plastic chunks with rubber hose.
 
holy crap man what happened under there? you got some work to do. id just go get some vacuum hose and replace ALL the lines you can see. i simplified my renix system by cutting out everything that wasnt smog related even though we dont smog up here. that nipple on the back of the air box can be crimped over by the way. id get rid of that junction block too and run new lines. the hard line going to the MAP sensor needs to be kept intact along with the rear hardline to the valve cover...i think everything else can go.
 
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I did away with all that mess! The only thing you need hooked up to pass smog is the EGR Solenoid and of course the FPR. I'm not running the air box so the thermactor is gone. The evap purge is hooked to one side of the air tube and the CCV inlet is hooked to the other (post filter of course). I used 2 cycle fuel line( yellow in the pic below) to connect the EGR solenoid to the manifold and then to the EGR. You could also hook up the FPR with the same tubing as well. The MAP connection at the TB is a wierd set-up on the RENIX and I would just go to the dealer and order a new one of those. My CCV is from a 96 XJ and is a dealer item as well. This is my 90 that was just in the ROTM running for May.

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just to let u know I can see ur images(2images), looks like ur missing some lines, I dont know how Much help I can be since I'm in the process of putting my engine back in my xj, but if nothing else u might get lucky going to a junkyard a finding a renix jeep
 
holy crap man what happened under there? you got some work to do. id just go get some vacuum hose and replace ALL the lines you can see. i simplified my renix system by cutting out everything that wasnt smog related even though we dont smog up here. that nipple on the back of the air box can be crimped over by the way. id get rid of that junction block too and run new lines. the hard line going to the MAP sensor needs to be kept intact along with the hardline to the valve cover...i think everything else can go.

I know I know, I bought it this way, and the previous owner bought it from THE OTHER previous owner this way. I need to do it right, and just iron it out now. I'm hoping it'll cure the problem with the high idle as well.

So what you're saying, is I can cap both small nipples on the back of the air box? I'm looking at a diagram that says one goes to the EGR solenoid, other goes to a vacuum fitting. Which I'm assuming is the junction box you're talking about.

Pic here?

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If that's the one you're talking about, how do I get rid of it without having vacuum leaks? It has two lines going to a fitting in the manifold:

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Either browse the junkyards for parts in better condition, buy new at the dealership, or find pictures of an intact system and duplicate the plastic chunks with rubber hose.

Junkyards around here are scarce as far as in tact 4.0's go, they get molested pretty quick so getting an idea of routing is out of the question, I may be able to snag some parts though.

I did away with all that mess! The only thing you need hooked up to pass smog is the EGR Solenoid and of course the FPR. I'm not running the air box so the thermactor is gone. The evap purge is hooked to one side of the air tube and the CCV inlet is hooked to the other (post filter of course). I used 2 cycle fuel line( yellow in the pic below) to connect the EGR solenoid to the manifold and then to the EGR. You could also hook up the FPR with the same tubing as well. This is my 90 that was just in the ROTM running for May.

P1020306.jpg

That's what I'm looking to do as well, it looks great, although I'm still not clear on what most of the shit you removed is... I hate vacuum lines :gonnablow

just to let u know I can see ur images(2images), looks like ur missing some lines, I dont know how Much help I can be since I'm in the process of putting my engine back in my xj, but if nothing else u might get lucky going to a junkyard a finding a renix jeep


There's DEFINITELY some lines missing, just trying to figure out which.

Also wtf is this and why is the right side of it uncapped? It looks like it'd take either a larger hose, or it's just a breather of some sort, there's filter material (foam) in the end:

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I suggest alldatadiy.com, it will have a vacuum diagram. Or just look at the sticker under your hood, if it's still there. Also, it looks like your throttle position sensor is disconnected, which really can't be good.
 
haha i know how the PO to PO to PO game works trust me. i kept the one nipple on the back of the air box to the egr solenoid. dunno if thats right. the other nipple goes to the valve thing in front of the air box. which is useless IMO. everything important like the egr and map and pcv system need to be kept intact. i just went by the diagram under the hood and ran all new vacuum lines. if that doesnt help just dust off that POS haynes or chilton manual and look for a vacuum diagram. xjtrailrider has a nice setup and maybe hell take some overview pics for a fellow jeep addict ;)
 
I wouldn't worry about that cap with the filter looking thing in it, mines got the samething, and +1 on xjtrailrider letting us know what he did to delete all those hoses and setting up the sweet cone filter setup
 
The round thing on the back of the air box is the temperature control for the thermactor. When the air is cold the thermactor is shut and the air box pulls air from the heat riser that is attached with a tube from the exhaust man. Rip all that chit out! You do not need it! I would remove the thermactor, and all of the vac lines going to it and the temp control and cap at the vacuum tree on the intake. I removed the heat riser tube and the heat shield on the from the exhaust manifold as well.

The thing in your hand above is the EGR solenoid, the uncapped end is a filter. Notice in my pic I capped the nipple with a felt filter and zip tied it.
 
I suggest alldatadiy.com, it will have a vacuum diagram. Or just look at the sticker under your hood, if it's still there. Also, it looks like your throttle position sensor is disconnected, which really can't be good.
I saw that plug as well, and I'm not sure where it goes. The TPS is plugged in, and wired into the wire harness, this plug just splices off for some odd reason, and there is literally NO plug within a few feet that could possibly plug into it.
 
haha i know how the PO to PO to PO game works trust me. i kept the one nipple on the back of the air box to the egr solenoid. dunno if thats right. the other nipple goes to the valve thing in front of the air box. which is useless IMO. everything important like the egr and map and pcv system need to be kept intact. i just went by the diagram under the hood and ran all new vacuum lines. if that doesnt help just dust off that POS haynes or chilton manual and look for a vacuum diagram. xjtrailrider has a nice setup and maybe hell take some overview pics for a fellow jeep addict ;)

The thing on the back of the air box DOES NOT hook up to the EGR, only to the thermactor. The ECU tells the EGR solenoid when to open the EGR valve not temperature. The EGR solenoid should get its vacuum source from the intake.
 
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I saw that plug as well, and I'm not sure where it goes. The TPS is plugged in, and wired into the wire harness, this plug just splices off for some odd reason, and there is literally NO plug within a few feet that could possibly plug into it.

That is the plug for a AW4 equipped RENIX, an auto TPS will have 2 plugs. Your MJ is a manual shift.
 
Hmmmm I think I might have most of it figured out, I'll definitely be referring back to this thread a few times. I think the simplest way is to do what's recommended, ditch that stupid block and run all lines direct. Also probably going to do short ram setup like xjtrailrider's, but AFTER smog, they bitch and moan about it during smog.
 
Here is what you need hooked up and where it hooks up to;

Intake vacuum tree to fuel pressure regulator
Intake vacuum tree to EGR solenoid lower single nipple
EGR solenoid inner nipple to EGR transducer(90 model) or EGR nipple(87-89)
Put a filter on the outer EGR solenoid nipple
Evap purge has to be hooked up post filter as well as the CCV inlet(the air has to be clean before it gets sucked into the crank case)
The MAP has to be hooked up to the rear of the throttle body as that is ported
The CCV gets hooked up to the single brass nipple on the intake manifold.
The brake booster gets hooked up to the large nipple above the EGR valve.

I think thats it, plug anything that is left open at the intake.
 
Here is what you need hooked up and where it hooks up to;

Intake vacuum tree to fuel pressure regulator
Intake vacuum tree to EGR solenoid lower single nipple
EGR solenoid inner nipple to EGR transducer(90 model) or EGR nipple(87-89)
Put a filter on the outer EGR solenoid nipple
Evap purge has to be hooked up post filter as well as the CCV inlet(the air has to be clean before it gets sucked into the crank case)
The MAP has to be hooked up to the rear of the throttle body as that is ported
The CCV gets hooked up to the single brass nipple on the intake manifold.
The brake booster gets hooked up to the large nipple above the EGR valve.

I think thats it, plug anything that is left open at the intake.

What floats a VA inspector's boat may not work in the Peoples Republik of CA.

For about $24 each you can purchase both sections of the vacuum harness from NAPA.
 
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