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  #16  
Old January 8th, 2018, 20:04
blu3fan's Avatar
blu3fan blu3fan is offline
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Re: 8.25 axle question

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Originally Posted by Anak View Post
Be aware that a lunch box locker is where many people run up against an annoying reality with these axles. You cannot use a lunch box to convert a 27 spline carrier to 29 spline. You also cannot put a lunch box in a limited slip carrier.

Call that one more reason to figure out what you really have before you spend any money going a particular direction.

100%
I did a few hours of research into the options available.
it appears its a lot more inclusive than I originally thought.

read that about the lunchbox.

Tomorrow. I am opening this axle up.
ill get back with pics and such.
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  #17  
Old January 9th, 2018, 12:55
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blu3fan blu3fan is offline
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Re: 8.25 axle question

so both are 3.55
the new axle looks brand new inside. teeth show no wear.

understandable... the xj I pulled this axle from had 45k on the clock.

to confirm. am I good to just swap the axles now ?
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  #18  
Old January 9th, 2018, 13:06
burntkat burntkat is offline
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Re: 8.25 axle question

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Originally Posted by Heavyopp View Post
This isn't extremely accurate but it will give you a decent guess

Prop the axle up so you can rotate both tires or hubs if no tires

Mark the housing so you can count # of rotations of the Yoke

Spin tire 1 complete rotation, counting rotation of spindle -- 1 full turn of tire and 3 plus a little is 3.07 -- 1 tire rotation and 3 and 3/4 rotation of yoke is 3.73 -- 1 rotation of tire and 4 and a little is 4.10

Not very accurate but will get you in the ballpark -- But you bought an unknown junkyard rear -- pull cover and check -- you really should no matter what -- could be filled with mud
Nice idea, but you're doing it wrong.

You'll get a 1:1 ratio that way- you're spinning the spiders.

Leave a tire on the ground. Count the revs of the pinion.
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  #19  
Old January 9th, 2018, 13:23
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xj_mike xj_mike is offline
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Re: 8.25 axle question

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Originally Posted by blu3fan View Post
so both are 3.55
the new axle looks brand new inside. teeth show no wear.

understandable... the xj I pulled this axle from had 45k on the clock.

to confirm. am I good to just swap the axles now ?
If the ratios are the same as your old one, then you can just swap the whole axle over. I always recommend new U-bolt anytime you are removing old, original ones but that's your call.
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  #20  
Old January 9th, 2018, 15:27
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Anak Anak is offline
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Re: 8.25 axle question

Quote:
Originally Posted by blu3fan View Post
so both are 3.55
the new axle looks brand new inside. teeth show no wear.

understandable... the xj I pulled this axle from had 45k on the clock.

to confirm. am I good to just swap the axles now ?
Sure sounds like it to me. I think that is about as good as it gets.

I will reiterate the suggestion to get new U-bolts. When I removed my first axle one of the U-bolts broke before the nut would start to move. Also note that new U-bolts will probably not come in the exact length you need. Too short won't work at all, so you will probably end up with something that is too long. Plan to cut off the excess. Also note that you will want to re-torque the U-bolts after the first hundred miles.

Another potentially useful tidbit: One way or another you are going to be disconnecting the e-brake cables. I have found that the simplest way to get all three tabs on the cable housing compressed at one time is to use a short (like 1") piece of 1/2" copper tubing cut with a roll cutter. The ID of the copper tubing is a bit too big, and the ID as cut with the roll cutter will probably be too small, but with some judicious deburring you should be able to get it just right. That sure beats trying to work your way around the perimeter trying to get one tab at a time through the hole in the backing plate or bracket.

Oh, and one other maybe useful tip: An old lawnmower makes a reasonable axle dolly: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1143659
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  #21  
Old January 9th, 2018, 20:14
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Re: 8.25 axle question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anak View Post
Sure sounds like it to me. I think that is about as good as it gets.

I will reiterate the suggestion to get new U-bolts. When I removed my first axle one of the U-bolts broke before the nut would start to move. Also note that new U-bolts will probably not come in the exact length you need. Too short won't work at all, so you will probably end up with something that is too long. Plan to cut off the excess. Also note that you will want to re-torque the U-bolts after the first hundred miles.

Another potentially useful tidbit: One way or another you are going to be disconnecting the e-brake cables. I have found that the simplest way to get all three tabs on the cable housing compressed at one time is to use a short (like 1") piece of 1/2" copper tubing cut with a roll cutter. The ID of the copper tubing is a bit too big, and the ID as cut with the roll cutter will probably be too small, but with some judicious deburring you should be able to get it just right. That sure beats trying to work your way around the perimeter trying to get one tab at a time through the hole in the backing plate or bracket.

Oh, and one other maybe useful tip: An old lawnmower makes a reasonable axle dolly: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1143659
Going to use a jack. with a ratchet strap to hold it.


as for the E brake cables.
Im not using the junkyard e brake cables attached. mainly cos I damaged them. after i got annoyed removing them. I tried to cut through them.
didnt go well

I am going to remove the e-brake lines inside the brake shoes.
then attach mine to the new axle.

I bought rough countries extended brake lines.
they are nice quality.

My main quandary right now is that I want that red ARB cover
but its $200
:P
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  #22  
Old January 9th, 2018, 23:31
JeepNoob JeepNoob is offline
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Re: 8.25 axle question

Jeezless H. Chrysler of Highland Park, Michigan on a donkey... leave it to the intertoobz to complicate things...

I worked at a salvage yard for a bit that dealt with Jeeps and Jeeps only. As others have pointed out, the best way to figure out your gear ratio is by checking your ring gear. There will be two numbers, one will be the number of pinion teeth, the other will be the number of ring gear teeth. Divide them to figure out your gear ratio. Automatic tranny 4.0 XJ's came from the factory 3.54/3.55 gears. Really, it's a toss-up because if you use the method I described, the actual number comes out to 3.545-something. Some folks round that up, some down.

Just because a Jeep SHOULD have X-part or gear ratio in it per the VIN doesn't mean it always does. I took apart one XJ that had 3.07 gears in the back and 3.73's in the front. Probably explains why the gears up front were shattered...

As far as the E-brake cable goes... I can't exactly remember how we got around those. I think we just unbolted them at the tensioner assembly where the brake cable from the handle meets the "wing." Otherwise, you'r looking at taking the rear drums apart to detach the brake cable there.
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  #23  
Old January 10th, 2018, 02:38
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Re: 8.25 axle question

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Originally Posted by JeepNoob View Post
As far as the E-brake cable goes... I can't exactly remember how we got around those. I think we just unbolted them at the tensioner assembly where the brake cable from the handle meets the "wing." Otherwise, you'r looking at taking the rear drums apart to detach the brake cable there.

A 1/2" box/ring spanner/wrench get the job done.
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