All taped up and read to shoot.

Absolutely true (on the advantages of not stripping to bare metal) but I would amend the point on metal etch primer to add that a good epoxy primer may be a better option. It not only bonds better, it creates a harder surface. Another nice point is that it gives you up to a week to apply the color coat without having to re-sand. During that week, you will still obtain a really strong chemical bond.

Also, rather than trying to apply a skim coat of filler, I find that a couple of coats of high build primer (like Evercoat's Featherfill) is a MUCH easier approach. It is essentially a really thick primer you can shoot directly over the Epoxy primer (I prefer Southern Polyurethane's product both for the price as well as the quality). 2-3 coats gives the perfect base to block sand to a nice flat surface, ready for color.

old_man said:

Just a point of information about your comment. You don't have to sand down to metal to have paint come out nice. In fact, in most cases that is not what you want to do. If the existing paint is adhering well, just do a 400 grit sand, preferably wet sand, primer, and paint. If you take it down to metal, you need to do a acid etch primer or stabilizer then primer before you paint. On most vehicles if you take it down to metal, you probably want to do a primer, a skim coat of glaze or bondo, then block sand to get rid of imperfections.

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A comment on Monstaliner; This stuff is great. I did a motorcycle (99 Triumph Trophy 1200) in "Lady in Red" this past spring. All parts were plastic except for the gas tank. My plastics were in terrible shape from being dropped several times. Top heavy parking lot drops, not me. There is different prep for coating plastics so if you are doing any, like flares or end caps, read carefully the info at their site. All you need to know is there and very accurate. I had 14 individual pieces to coat. Calculated the area of each part and came up with 29.5 sq feet. According to their site one qt covers 15 sq ft twice. Bought 2 qts and even with the over spray it was the perfect amount.

The finish is what I would say is more satin like in comparison to a gloss. The vibrant red color pops against the black parts of the bike and doesn't need to be gloss. Its not a look for everyone but not one person told me they didn't like it. Quite opposite.

How is it holding up. Perfectly! I rushed putting the bike back together two hours after the last coat was sprayed on. It was dry to the touch but till slightly soft. Takes about a week to fully cure depending on the weather. No scratches at all. I have several bikes and I accidentally scrapped my saddlebag against the turn signal of another bike. About a three inch long mark of metal on Monstaliner. I was sure it was damaged but it wiped mostly off with my finger and spit. Hit it with Windex and the scratch was gone completely. No rock chips at all. No color fade. Product is UV resistant. The bug guts clean off with windex and it gives a cleaner satin shine. I tried several detailer products and waxes. Nothing is as good as cheap Windex. I added $7 vinyl decals to the tank and they have followed the lumpy contours just fine without peeling. Saved me $76 for the Triumph tank decals. I can post pictures but don't want to hijack the thread.

I will be using this on my jeep for sure. I bought the full color sample and discovered "Midnight Special" near perfectly matches my 2001 Patriot Blue. I can coat the exterior and leave the door jams alone. There is a video on youtube of a guy using multiple colors on a Pathfinder. There is some bleeding of color as its difficult to seal tape to the lumps. I thought it came out looking great.

OP I like the OD Green.