Help ! I can't get my front parking lights to work

Hi,
I got a problem. I can't get my front parking lights to work. All my lights work, including the turn singles, hazard lights but the parking lights wont work in the front. The rear work. Last night a buddy and me replaced the headlight switch and still nothing, no front parking lights. Has anyone experienced this problem? Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
John

I'm assuming you've gotten out the test light and found if you have power to the sockets. You can trace it from there. I've had a lot of problems with the sockets on those lights.

Especially if this is a pre-97, check the connector for the front light harness, just behind the bulkhead, underneath the air cleaner box. I've had corrosion problems with this connector more than once.

Inoperative Park Lamps....

If it is a 96 or Newer XJ Model...
Assuming you have power to your Headlamp Switch...Inspect Wire BK/YL at Switch
Should have power when you turn your Park Lamps. If OK'D..
Go to the Junction Block and check fuses # 7 10 Amps and fuse # 23 10 Amps...You have 2 different fuses for Park Lamps ...
# 7 is for Left & # 23 is for the right side....If OK.D ..
See that you are getting Power at the Park Lamp connectors themselfs...
Again Wire BR at left side Marker & DG/YL at Right side Marker connector...
If OK'D ....Buy ( 2 ) Bulbs
Hope this was helpful...

Alacran

Its a 1996 Jeep Cherokee. I placed new bulbs in last night, the socket was pretty nasty with rust. I cleaned it out but I am planning on replacing them. I did test it with the test light and 1 of the prongs in the socket gets power, the other doesn't. Is one + and one a -? Thats what I am thinking but not 100%.

diablo007 said:

Its a 1996 Jeep Cherokee. I placed new bulbs in last night, the socket was pretty nasty with rust. I cleaned it out but I am planning on replacing them. I did test it with the test light and 1 of the prongs in the socket gets power, the other doesn't. Is one + and one a -? Thats what I am thinking but not 100%.

Click to expand...

Depends on whether the 96 still uses the bayonet type bulbs or the newer push in bulbs. If it's the bayonet type with two dots at the bottom and a brass base, the two dots are the positive contacts for separate filaments. Ground is provided by the shell.* Make sure it's installed right - the two bayonet prongs are at different heights, to force correct installation, but sometimes if your socket is loose it can go in wrong. If everything is working as it should, the taller, less bright filament should light with parking lights, and the shorter, brighter one should light with signals. If the wrong filament lights this is a pretty certain diagnosis for a bad ground. If one filament lights correctly and the other not at all, the ground is all right and the + side of that circuit is bad, or the bulb is bad. You can use a meter or a test light, with the negative clipped to the outer shell of the lamp socket, and probe the contacts in the socket. If the contacts show power but the bulb doesn't light, suspect a defective bulb or corroded contacts. Wiggle the bulb, and try another bulb. If no power at the contacts, it's time to trace the circuit back.

*note: there is a two-dot bulb made for interior lights and the like, in which the circuit is between the two base dots without using the shell as a ground. These bulbs are smaller, and differ from the standard park/tail bulbs in that their bayonet posts are both the same height, to prevent accidental interchange.

I had the same problem and fixed it thursday. The problem was the socket was bad on the marker light side (NO ground). I found some metal housings in the front marker lights of a mid-80's Dodge van that fit and installed them. the Dodge sockets have brass contacts, a rubber seal instead of the foam one, and the back of the socket and about 3 inches of the wire have a molded rubber boot to help seal the assy. from corrosion. How come the people at Jeep didn't use this ?Now, ALL of my lights are working! Now the thing that makes me wonder is WHY did they switch from the metal sockets in the first place to the plastic ones that seem to always be losing their ground?

Deleted ( my return button sticks once in a while )

Everyone, thank you for the tips. This weekend I am going to try and get this problem resolved.

Thanks again !