Lower links some questions

This Is a two part question first as I am trying to get my coil/link mounts situated. I noticed maybe what appears to be a problem. In the picture you can see that the angle from the cross member to the lower link looks way off. Looking at the stock 30 the coil mounts are straight but the lower link mount is tilted inboard. Is this angle ok? Found a few pics online looks like any long arm has some angle what is acceptable? Or am I overthinking here? Almost looks like a mount on the frame rail would be better. This is a Tera 60 only 3/4 wider per side than stock D30


Question two is how much adjustment can you build into a link? Lets take a nice round number 40 inches center to center of the mounts. The threaded part of the johny joint is 3 1/4 both sides the weld slug are 1.5 how long should you cut the link? Is there a calculator online somewhere for this? Thanks

1. Misalignment is fine.

2. A safe length of engagement in the threaded bung is equal to the diameter of the joint threads. Anything less than that is sketchy. Take that number and start doing some math.

If none of this seems right head on over to pirate 4x4 and read up on the threads about 3 links. Tons of information and pics.


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It's fine. You don't want on frame rail, likely to run at full lock, if not before.
Like stated above, make sure you minimize the amount of thread you have showing on those joints. Leave room to adjust, but suck em in a little bit.

iirc the stock brackets have a 10* angle on them.

personally I would trim the axle side brackets so that you get the joints aligned. probably take 20 minutes with a flap wheel to get the 10*

and I would cut the coil bucket off and lower it down closer to the tube. what you have there looks ridiculous.

unless you already burned it in, in which case run it. see if you have issues. likely you won't.

In the pic we just have everything mocked with no weight. with it down it looks better plus with the mount that close to the inner c the upper plate will hit the c if its any lower. Its partially welded so I am gong to try it and see....

Are you designing this yourself? or some sort of 'kit'?


If it were me.............


Spring bucket would be independent, 3/8 plate. Center of bucket would be 1/2 plate, just smaller than the spring. Center of which would be threaded to accept bumbstop. Plate would sit down on the C, low as possible.


Arm brackets, axle end, 1/4 plate, capped in front (gusset), inboard of C. If C2C of xmember is 38", that's where I'd mount at the axle, same center, assuming it does not interfere with dif on DS.


Once pinion angle is known, I'd mock up on a bench, not the floor.

There Ruffstuff brackets http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/COILINK.html

looking at there site now they make a mount that's 10 degree inboard oh well we will try to make them work.

rockclimber said:

unless you already burned it in, in which case run it. see if you have issues. likely you won't.

Click to expand...

If they are burned in try bending the tabs on the bracket to meet the 10* angle you want. If you have to grind a vertical line where you want the bend, removing just a bit of material to help bend then weld some reinforcement back on the tabs and then weld the tabs together with some plate. Should hold no problem. If anything add a gusset to the coil spring bucket and it should hold.

It looks like you still need to weld in a trac bar mount. Integrate it into the spring mount if you want to help reinforce the entire setup

rockclimber said:

iirc the stock brackets have a 10* angle on them.

personally I would trim the axle side brackets so that you get the joints aligned. probably take 20 minutes with a flap wheel to get the 10*

and I would cut the coil bucket off and lower it down closer to the tube. what you have there looks ridiculous.

unless you already burned it in, in which case run it. see if you have issues. likely you won't.

Click to expand...

Yes they sit high could not get to sit flat without weight. here is a better view. is the height of the coil plate super critical? Just measured it could maybe go down a 1/4 in. The mount is only tacked in. so I could maybe take it back off.

As long as the mounts will hold, height is not a big deal. It just effectively changes your lift height. I would consider some kind of plate on the front of the mounts to help keep crap out.

So I got the lowers cut to mock up doesn't look like the angle is as bad as I was thinking. the axle side is twisted slightly. This should not be a problem as long as it does not bind correct? Thanks for all the help

looks fine.