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caliper bolts not getting tight

R

rockhard4x4

NAXJA Forum User
Location
south jersey
when i bought the truck the pass side caliper only had 1 bolt in it

put a new one in, other one was tight, new one went in fine

took a look underneatht oday (been on the road 3 days)

the one i put in was GONE, and the other one loose

put a new one in, and neither will get tight, wtf? what do they spin into???
 
They should thread into either the steering knuckle or a caliper support bracket.

It sounds like the threads in the casting have "rounded over" with time, and they're not holding as well as they should anymore. Easiest fix? Install a Heli-Coil (thread inserts are spendy, but they're probably cheaper than a replacement bracket, definitely cheaper than a replacement knuckle, and they'll prevent the problem from recurring. A replacement part won't.)
 
i agree with 5-90. i lost a caliper bolt on the trial once. imagine that but not being able to keep a new bolt in there and trying to get home...scary, i almost lost my brakes , the other bolt was halfway threaded out...i just imagine running over my caliper while its hanging and losing my brakes....
 
well some of the threads are toasted, i got two longer bolts, so it goes through the whole thing, but dosnt hit the caliper, it grabs plenty of thread, the ones in it were way to short, eventually i'll put in a thread insert
 
The same thing happened to me. Iirc it's an 8mm bolt. I went to a 10mm and just re-drilled and tapped the threads. The only trick is that you also have to bore out the sleeves so that the 10mm bolt will fit through.
 
Hallo. Do you know these nuts? It is for wood, but with a little modification you can do other things with them.
They are in 6,8,10 and 12 mm threads .
They are cheaper than a stamp, so if you need them, let me know.

 
Wim, those are known as tee nuts in this country. And while they are pretty useful, I don't think I'd use them anywhere near my calipers.

Personally, the coil insert would be the way I'd go.
 
Yes. I understand. The idea was to flatten the points down of the washer.And drill out the damage thread of 8mm in the steerknuckel to a 10 mm. (outside dia of the shaft)
There is a little room between the steerknuckel and the brake shoe to keep the big washer there. :roflmao:
 
Boy O, I would not want to try to remove those bastids afer they rusted on thats for sure.
Put the helicoils in and use new bolts, TORQUE THEM TO SPECS not using the 'tightenough' method. I lost one too, got lucky and the threads were still OK. Oh, by the way, it's the WHOLE knuckle.
 
RichP said:
Boy O, I would not want to try to remove those bastids afer they rusted on thats for sure.
Put the helicoils in and use new bolts, TORQUE THEM TO SPECS not using the 'tightenough' method. I lost one too, got lucky and the threads were still OK. Oh, by the way, it's the WHOLE knuckle.
Click to expand...

Yah - I think it depends on the year. I'm fairly sure my RENIX rigs have caliper support brackets separate from the knuckle (but I honestly won't swear to it - I could be getting it confused with something else...)
 
wim hoppenbrouwers said:
Hallo. Do you know these nuts? It is for wood, but with a little modification you can do other things with them.
They are in 6,8,10 and 12 mm threads .
They are cheaper than a stamp, so if you need them, let me know.

Click to expand...

Those are t-nuts. They do not last long in the rust belts here. I had a wood box that had those and they rusted out before the wood rotted.
 
Jeepm@n said:
Those are t-nuts. They do not last long in the rust belts here. I had a wood box that had those and they rusted out before the wood rotted.
Click to expand...

They also don't work well in metal for critical applications, since they tend to be mild steel (and are therefore even softer than SAE2/ISO4.8 screws...) You'd have to weld the thing in anyhow, and welding wrought to cast is a pain.
 
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