Update to Dome Light eletrical issue

An interesting thing happened this weekend. I learned how to replace the headliner DIY Style. Overall it came out great. I went to Joann’s and bought Gray headliner material. Which is selling for 14.99 a yard. Fortunately, my wife had a 40 percent off coupon and it now looks as good as original.

When installing the headliner I messed with the dome light and now my dome light will not come on and my radio does not store time or presets. I have not looked at any fuses yet so it may be that, but I was throwing this out and seeking guidance.

Also I plan to add a dome light to the rear. My plans are to tap off the center dome light unless someone has a better way to wire it. I would like it to come on when the doors open like the middle dome does. Again I am a newb, and eager to try and do more so suggestions or guidance must be detailed.

After the rear dome light I want to add courtesy lights to the floor boards in the front and a light to the rear hatch that shines down when all doors are opened ect…
Also the original dome light has three wires, Red, Yellow, and Black. The new rear dome goes red, yellow, Purple. When I plugged the new one off the 99 in to see if it worked, the connectors fit, but this is when I created this mess with the radio ect...

Sounds like a crosswire - and maybe a short, which hopefully only took out a fuse.

Modifying the wiring of any car requires a good working voltmeter - which can be had for as little as $20, you need one for the sensors anyway - and a wiring diagram. The factory did not and won't ever follow an intuitive wire color code you can science out by looking. Things change almost yearly, if not in mid production, to offer new options and correct a whoops! no one foresaw.

Adding the rear dome was done on the older Laredos, the wiring schematic should show how its done for newer, too. The addition of another jamb switch, or the problematic hatch switch with a Hall sensor isn't difficult - if you follow the factory scheme. Trying to imagineer one will pit your skills against a $85,000 electrical guru with a staff to work the grunt stuff, and a subcontractor with even more expertise who could finesse a peculiar wiring loom and make another dollar profit. The odds are stacked against you - just do it their way. It will work just fine, after all, why spend the brain power when the answer is already tested and approved?

If anything, the switch in the older XJ's is a pain because it constantly needs adjustment to work. I have thought about just adding another jamb switch in the D pillar. It would remove the wiring from the hatch, add a positive action mechanical switch, and actually work all the time with my rear light. Those with a 99 (my son just left, I can't look at his) can tell you how the later model is equipped. Maybe they did it right by then.

Voltmeter, wiring diagram, and yes, you get to partially remove the headliner to install the light. Aren't bright ideas fun?

Agree on checking for a fuse. On the dome light, I'd guess +12volts (red), wire to the door switch(yellow), and a ground (black). The door switches ground the wire when the door opens. If the dome light has a switch, it would likely ground through the black wire.

Not to drag up an old thread, but I'm having issues and suspect it's the hall sensor.

On my 97, the button switch was broken and the light didn't come on unless the front doors were open. Today I replaced the rear dome with one that has a button that actually works. The light still comes on with the doors, but not when the hatch is opened.

After a bit of searching, I'm fairly positive that the hall sensor is bad/needs adjusted. Does anyone have any info about the location of the sensor and how to tweak it to try to get it to work.

dagr8tim said:

On my 97, the button switch was broken and the light didn't come on unless the front doors were open. Today I replaced the rear dome with one that has a button that actually works. The light still comes on with the doors, but not when the hatch is opened.

After a bit of searching, I'm fairly positive that the hall sensor is bad/needs adjusted. Does anyone have any info about the location of the sensor and how to tweak it to try to get it to work.

Click to expand...

It's a switch and it's in the liftgate latch. The switch on the lamp just defeats the one in the liftgate so you can have the hatch open without having the interior lights on.

MJR said:

It's a switch and it's in the liftgate latch. The switch on the lamp just defeats the one in the liftgate so you can have the hatch open without having the interior lights on.

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Cool, thanks.

By any chance, is it the sensor that's still attached in the below picture?


That's taken from my 98. After not being able to get the hatch open because the turnbuckle needed adjusted. I just cut the whole assembly out.

dagr8tim said:

Cool, thanks.

By any chance, is it the sensor that's still attached in the below picture?

That's taken from my 98. After not being able to get the hatch open because the turnbuckle needed adjusted. I just cut the whole assembly out.

Click to expand...

OMG are you serious? You can remove the trim panel from inside to open the hatch unless the latch itself is stuck.

Yes it's the only switch and also is used for the hatch open light if you have it. Assuming the defeat switch on the rear cargo light is in the right position grounding the wire from the switch should turn on the interior lights.

MJR said:

OMG are you serious? You can remove the trim panel from inside to open the hatch unless the latch itself is stuck.

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Hey thanks for jumping to conclusions. That is a pic of my parts jeep. Hit in the front end and the subframe on the passenger side is pushed in about 6 inches. I think the fact that I cut the rear hatch latch assembly out is the least of my worries.

Anyways, now that I know where the switch is, I can repair/replace it.

dagr8tim said:

Hey thanks for jumping to conclusions. That is a pic of my parts jeep. Hit in the front end and the subframe on the passenger side is pushed in about 6 inches. I think the fact that I cut the rear hatch latch assembly out is the least of my worries.

Anyways, now that I know where the switch is, I can repair/replace it.

Click to expand...

You never know.

Before you go through replacing it try grounding the wire and press the rear cargo light switch just to make sure it isn't wiring. Well at least you have parts although some stuff did change between 97 and 98.