wet torque vs. dry torque?

I put a new Alabama head on last weekend and all is running well. I did notice however that the valvetrain is noticeably louder at idle and through the R's. It's not lifter tap or piston slap, it's noticeably coming from the valve cover(not loud, just noticeable). When I torqued the rocker arm bolts they were torqued w/the residual oil on them to 21 lbs. ft. per FSM. I'm wondering if maybe they were overtorqued because of the "wet" torque or is it just the click clack of new valve springs? The guys at Alabama say everything is stock replacement. The hardened dual valve springs in my GTO sound pretty similar but their spring rate is up to .660. Should I clean up the bolts and re-torque? Or am I just being paranoid??lol

The rocker arm bolts bring everything down to full contact anyway, so the force on the lifters and rocker arms themselves is no different. I tried researching the dry vs. lubed torque and found different opinions saything that torque should be reduced between 10% and 40% depending where you looked. You already torqued them down without anything pulling out or smapping, so I would leave them alone.

Many years ago (working on LA motors) I learned to leave the valve cover off (actually cut the top out of an old cover) and watch the rockers oil as the engine runs. A main spun and I trashed a really nice motor once.
The lubrication path is some different between the I6 and the LA, but the end of the line is most always the rockers. If the rocker isn't oiling properly there is something plugged down the line. Whatever is plugged may cause irreparable damage.
Running the motor without the valve cover can get messy (the reason for the extra valve cover with no top), but the alternatives can be worse.
It's not uncommon for the oil passages to become plugged or partially blocked in the I6. One tip off is higher than normal oil pressure.
This may be relevant or it may not, your problem may just be things have to wear in a little.
I use Loc Tite on everything, spray it all clean with brake cleaner, bolt threads tapped threads or nut threads. Then a little Loc Tite and torque to spec.
The old 4.2 used to be known for a lot of wear on the rockers. In most cases just about the time the motor needs to be re ringed, the rockers need to be replaced.

I went ahead and cleaned all the threads in the head for the rocker pedestals and the threads of the bolts. I even blew some compressed air through all the PR's just to be sure they weren't blocked up at all. Re-torqued everything and it sounds about the same. Guess I was just being paranoid. lol. Better safe than sorry...