• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

NAXJA-friendly Buy? 97-01 fuel module

G

gmars

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Polk County, Wisconsin (northwestern), USA
Need buying advice: I'm finally taking the big plunge and having a local shop do the all-holy Fuel Pump Module on my 97 XJ 4.0. (got sick of left-hand stalls, slow-as-a-glacier starts and all the rough running.)
Is there a vendor that offers a good product, price AND IS Naxja-friendly?
Not a used or remanufactured one, and no I'm not spending a day in a boneyard. Yes, I want to do with the full module, and I'm not going to be doing it myself. I know better and don't have the rack for it.
There don't seem to be many manuf that make these? Good, better or best?
Also, I've seen that it requires a "special tool #6856" for locknut removal?
Before he )my shop guy) asks, is there a way around this? And is it worth getting it for this ONE job?
Thanks in advance!
 
If your mechanic asks you how to fix it, or doesn't know where to get the parts, you need to get a new one. You shouldn't have to buy his tools either.

Have you tried looking around, hitting the parts stores, dealership, looking online?
 
I've looked online for hours on this, and unfortuantely the parts availability is slim to none.
Sadly, NAXJA has been little use on this, except to remind me I need a new one, and have for two years.
As for the Mechanic's ability?
No, it's not like that.
I just know from experience that "it's a Jeep Thing" on these ridiculous fuel pump systems, and their TOTAL lack of access.
I've had a really hard time finding ANYONE other than a dealer that will even do it! I don't have room on the Visa card for their labor figures.
Between the super rusted skid plate, dropping, draining and going through the elaborate process on this project, I'm just trying to make it as affordable as possible, meaning I don't [possibly] get charged for a "one-time-use" tool.
He hasn't asked about it, but I see the TOOL in the FSM assemble procedures.
I can't seem to find any full modules online, only the individual pump. No regulator or filter or combination.
 
Come on. It's not that hard. Rock Auto. I would get the Bosch, especially if your paying someone to put it in. As for a tool, hammer and screwdriver always worked for me. Google "Rock Auto discount code" and you get numbers to save 5% more. If you need more, just let me know.
SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # SP7121M
MoreInfo.gif

Includes Fuel Pump, Sender, Float, Strainer and Fuel Reservoir (Only 14 Remaining)
getimage.php

$140.79$0.00$140.79
AddToCart.gif

AIRTEX Part # E7121MN
MoreInfo.gif
{Fuel Pump Assy-Module}
getimage.php

$186.79$0.00$186.79
AddToCart.gif

CARTER Part # P75040M
MoreInfo.gif
{Fuel Pump Module Assembly}
Features Turbine Technology
getimage.php

$246.79$0.00$246.79
AddToCart.gif

BOSCH Part # 67658
MoreInfo.gif
{Fuel Pump Assembly}- Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day
getimage.php

$253.79$0.00$253.79
AddToCart.gif



http://info.rockauto.com/Carter/Detail.html?P75040M_ANG.jpg&P75040M_TOP.jpg

http://info.rockauto.com/Bosch/Detail.html?67658.jpg
 
Thanks for the quick repsonses, and It's ggod to knwo about Rock Auto. As wellas the Bosch insight.
BUT going by your own links, it seems we're not comparing "apples to apples."
Fuel pump "assemblies," "modules," just the pumps, etc?
I can't tell if they're includign the regulators, filters or what.
Sure, the "pumps" seem to be available, but do to the PITA and $ factor, I ONLY want to do it once.
It seems like they all have their own little descriptions.
I s a"module" the same as an "assembly?"
 
Thanks, Winter, the pics are similar, but they all say soemthign diff.
So Apparently, "Modules," "Assemblies," "Fuel Regulators," "Fuel Pumps," "floats" are all interchangeable when it comes to this in-tank UNIT - For lack of another descriptive word.
The prices and names are all so vastly different, I was just confused.
I guess that's an answer!
Thanks.
 
I just had mine completely apart yesterday, only took two of us about 3 hours for the whole job, and that included completely disassembling the module to replace my muddy filters.

A screwdriver and hammer works just fine for the lock ring. If you're just changing out the whole module, it's not very hard to do it yourself, worst part is removing and attaching the filler hose from the tank.
 
Good to know.
I'm thinking it might be a labor saver ($) to do the whole show RIGHT the first time.
I've learned the hard way about skimping on XJ issues - HVAC and dash work, rear springs - that you always end up doing stuff several times, stuff that never has to be done on other vehicles.
The screwdriver and a hammer thing kills me!
 
SC Rednek said:
I just had mine completely apart yesterday, only took two of us about 3 hours for the whole job, and that included completely disassembling the module to replace my muddy filters.

A screwdriver and hammer works just fine for the lock ring. If you're just changing out the whole module, it's not very hard to do it yourself, worst part is removing and attaching the filler hose from the tank.
Click to expand...

Instead of a steel screwdriver I would recommend a brass drift--fewer sparks.
 
joe_peters said:
Instead of a steel screwdriver I would recommend a brass drift--fewer sparks.
Click to expand...

Personally, it's a plastic lock ring, and a plastic handled screwdriver, there's no metal to metal to spark. But hey, if you don't feel safe doing it then don't, I'm just saying it does work.

Oh, and I just re-read my previous post. By "do it yourself" I meant not taking it to a shop, you'll still want a buddy to help with holding the tank.
 
Using steel tools "worked" for SC Rednek in that he is not in a burn ward, but joe_peters is correct in that the safe tools to use around a gas tank are made of brass or various combinations of other non-ferrous metals, rubber, wood and plastic as others have noted. As always, use what you are personally comfortable with, but be aware that the plastic handle on a steel screwdriver will not prevent it from producing sparks.
 
I changed my own in a snowy freezing driveway a couple of months ago now. I didn't drain the gas, I had my Jeep up on jackstands and lowered the tank with my floor jack onto 4x4's and slid the tank out. Its a plastic lock ring on a plastic tank so I used a plastic handled screwdriver and hammered on it. And I used a bosch pump from the dealer.
 
I almost forgot, I guess I need to start blasting my (super rusty) Trailer Hitch assembly with PB Blaster today, so we can get that off, so we can get the gas tank Skid Plate off, so we can drop the gas tank, to replace the fuel pump/regulator/assembly/module.
I'm slowly realizing the ridiculousness of this design.
They couldn't put an access panel in the floor because why?
Amazing.
Absolutely amazing.
Thanks for all the help, folks.
 
gmars said:
I almost forgot, I guess I need to start blasting my (super rusty) Trailer Hitch assembly with PB Blaster today, so we can get that off, so we can get the gas tank Skid Plate off, so we can drop the gas tank, to replace the fuel pump/regulator/assembly/module.
I'm slowly realizing the ridiculousness of this design.
They couldn't put an access panel in the floor because why?
Amazing.
Absolutely amazing.
Thanks for all the help, folks.
Click to expand...

The OLD Ford Escorts had an access hatch for the fuel pump. You removed the bottom part of the rear seat to get to it. Sadly the US Government was not amused by this and it was later removed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
interment problem
Replies
3
Views
2K
cruiser54
C
Z
Whirring sound only heard from inside
Replies
7
Views
117
Z.m4v
Z
F
Stumped on this one!
2
Replies
29
Views
4K
Bent
Bent
N
New Engine is Hard to Start
Replies
0
Views
34
NGThomas
N
I
911: AC Panel Replacement, Coolant lines, Questions?
Replies
6
Views
1K
iamacynic37
I
Back
Top