• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Coil bowing out

SnagglePuss

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cameron Park, Ca
Why could the driver side coil bow forward? It actually hits the swaybar.
The LCA's are both the same length and visually, I cant see any other symmetry issues.

driver
DSC02485.JPG


passenger
DSC02487.JPG
 
strange enough i just signed up to NAXJA just to post a similar issue!! My drivers side bump stop(the metal casing part) is hitting the coil. everything looks straight to me also and the passenger side has plenty clearance. from your pics though im hitting the front side of the coil. weird stuff i tell ya!
 
X2 for control arms, the axle is sitting too far back causing it to bow.
 
that will happen when you have your pinion set higher to account for lift.... it is because your coil buckets are tilted up, causing them to bow.
 
I once measured from my rear axle center to my front and was almost 3/4 inches off, found another point of measurement and comfirmes my suspicisions, driver side was ahead 3/4 inches too far on the lh side wich accounted for the coil bowing on one side even with the uppers and lowers adjusted the same. Not sure where i went wong, but corrected it and its never driven better!
 
I could guess that if your driver side upper control arm mount bushing is shot, that might happen...
 
Is the only "proper" fix to cut the coil pads off and remount them to allow for correct pinion angle and a straight coil?
 
mine does the same thing only on passenger side. but i made my own UCA's, and think the passenger side my be to long. Would that make sense?

Does yours sit lower on that side? cuz mine sits lower on the passenger side
 
I have a 4.5" RK long arm kit. The arms are adjustable, and I've measured them and they are the same length.
I could see that if the upper control arm is the wrong length, it would rotate the axle and possibly cause the coils to bow out...

...but wouldnt it happen equally to both coils and not only one side?
 
I have a 4.5" RK long arm kit. The arms are adjustable, and I've measured them and they are the same length.
I could see that if the upper control arm is the wrong length, it would rotate the axle and possibly cause the coils to bow out...

...but wouldnt it happen equally to both coils and not only one side?

thats what i thought and well i know one is longer because the alignment shop told me it was longer. But yeah like you said it seems like it would do both coils like that. I am going to be buying some ironman adjustable uppers before to long and see what that does.
 
[FONT=&quot]I had the same problem as the XJ was lifted higher and the CAs were adjusted to keep the caster and pinion angles right.
A few things I have done.
-Slotted the sway bar bushing bracket bolt holes to move them forward
-installed dropped sway bar mounts to move the sway bar forward. Get them from RE or make your own.
-Using a belt sander, angled the top of the rubber spring isolators to tilt the top of the springs rearward. This helped a lot.

The driver's side spring also hit the trac-bar bracket. I loosened all the attaching hardware, including the bracket that the motor mount attaches to, and pulled the trac-bar bracket forward with ratchet strap. Retightening all the bolts gave an extra 1/4'' of clearance. Every bit helps.[/FONT]
 
i actually found out what was causing the jeep to sit lower, my jks quick disco on the pass. side wasn't adjusted out far enough. Well when i was at school i noticed that the quick disconnect was just laying there off the bottom mount. The bolt on top either cam out or broke.
 
Mine was doing this with RE4.5" springs and 1.75" polyspacers.
Jack XJ up remove weight from springs a knock coil back with BFH to other side of isolator.
 
Even though the arms are the same length, the axle is not sitting square, be it from a bad bushing or a tweaked control arm pocket. Really just find some good solid points to mesure from, like the front trans x member bolts , then mesure to a good point on the axle thats the same on the drivers and passanger, like the edge of the coil bucket. See if there is a big differance between either side. If there is and no noticable damage just add or take some length out of the arm to make up for it.
 
Back
Top