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Homebrew Quick-Disco's

Gold Cobra

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Woodland, WA
Anyone out there make there own? If so.....

How'd it come out?

What would you do differently?

Problems?

Any issues doing this on my MJ?
 
Mine are about as home brew as you can get. I cut the top bushing section off my XJ links and welded it onto the top of TJ links. I still have the ball and socket of the TJ link (which allows for some movement so it doesn't blow bushings and bend the threads like XJ links do) with the stock XJ bushings above (so it's longer). On the bottom I use a handled hitch pin which can be quickly pulled out so the bar can be twisted up out of the way.
 
goblazers_6 said:
Anyone out there make there own? If so.....

How'd it come out?

What would you do differently?

Problems?

Any issues doing this on my MJ?


I searched for you a little...

came up with these links
http://www.4x4xplor.com/homediscos.html
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/budgetdisconnects/index.htm
http://members.cox.net/marsquatch/
http://xjfanatic.com/quickdisco.php

this thread
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58026&highlight=homemade+sway+bar


just an example of what searching does... sadly most stuff you think you can do to a XJ has been done!
 
I just took the stock links and figured out how much taller they needed to be. Then I cut them in half and went to a metal supply place and found sleeves that would work. Cut the tube, sleeved the links, had my friend burn it all together. Lastly, I drilled the top threaded portion so I could use a cotter pin on it and removed the pressed in bolt from the axle end and used a quick release cotter pin there. They work great. I'd do it again.
 
riverfever said:
I just took the stock links and figured out how much taller they needed to be. Then I cut them in half and went to a metal supply place and found sleeves that would work. Cut the tube, sleeved the links, had my friend burn it all together. Lastly, I drilled the top threaded portion so I could use a cotter pin on it and removed the pressed in bolt from the axle end and used a quick release cotter pin there. They work great. I'd do it again.

I did the same thing, but with my small 3 inch lift, i did not have to make them longer. They work great. I also replaced all my bushings in the sway bar with new ones. The whole thing only cost about $40 with bushings(energy susp.), wingnuts, 4 hair pins, and 2 hitch pins.
 
when you do it with the wingnuts on top and hitch pins at bottom you just take the whole link out right? then you dont have to worry about tieing the sway bar to the chasis??
 
Kind of. Take the wing nut off both sides, lift up the sway bar and let both disconnects fall down. Remove the pins from the lower side of the links (at the axle end) and then you have the links, all cotter pins and hitch pins. Then I take two 6 inch bungee chords and secure the sway bar up tight. I use the fender support to do this. Make sense?

I had to screw with the links even at 3". Passenger side link was rubbing the coil real badly. I'm on a stock track bar though and I suspect that's more to blame.
 
Very easy.

Go the junk yard. Pull an XJ sway bar link (they wont let you bring in parts) walk over to the F-250 and Chevy 2500 trucks. Look a the rear sway bars (I think its the Ford you want) and you will find tha the rear links on one of those two trucks are a perfect fit for a 4-5 inch lift XJ. The offset is the same as the XJ (check it with the XJ link you pulled) and the length is exactly right. The tops of the links are threaded. Buy a couple of wing nuts for the top. Buy a couple of hitch pins for the bottom and two retainer clips like you use on a hitch reciever to hold the lower end together. I drilled mine on the top for a small cotter key but I dont use it any more. The wing nuts never loosen up between uses (monthly).

Cheap fast and easy.

John
 
I made mine using the stock bushings for the front and rear swaybar. I made brackets to convert the the swaybar to accept the bushing. Cut the stock links and welded the bushings at an angle to some tube. I just used clevis pins to disconnect them.
DSCF0951.jpg
 
TRAILREADYXJ said:
I made mine using the stock bushings for the front and rear swaybar. I made brackets to convert the the swaybar to accept the bushing. Cut the stock links and welded the bushings at an angle to some tube. I just used clevis pins to disconnect them.
DSCF0951.jpg

i like that.. so what you do when you disconnect is fold the link forward and tie the sway bar and link to the "frame" or wherever?
 
also i cant really tell but what size of metal did you use on that bracket. i think i have some 1/8", would that work?
 
sjbond67 said:
i like that.. so what you do when you disconnect is fold the link forward and tie the sway bar and link to the "frame" or wherever?

Yup, I just fold it forward and use a small bungi to hold it all up.
I made the brackets from 1/8" box, I think 1"x2" and just cut out one end and drilled 3 holes. Total job took like 20 min.
 
1 more question. i was looking at the rear sway bar today, figuring out some uses for it before i throw it away. i think im gonna go for your design. my links need to be extended so what i was thinking is cut the bushings off like you did, and cut up some of the rear sway bar (dont know how much to do since im up 3"?), weld it to the bushings, use the brackets from the old sway bay that held the sway bar to the top of the leaf springs (cut the sides off and drill a hole in the middle). Do you think thats a good idea? thanks for the pic, helped out alot.
 
I'm not sure about using the rear sway bar for links, it's solid and I'd imagine heat treated??? so it may be a little more difficult to get a good weld.

With my first setup of this type I used the rear bracket like you suggested. The only problem I had was the relocated bolt head hit the bushing. I ended up welding the bolt to the bracket and grinding the head down.
Well after lifting from 4.5" to 6.5" I ditched the sway bar entirely for a while. Those little brackets have since become BPEs in front, so I had to make new ones. It ended up being much easier making them from scratch than it was modifying the other brackets.

BTW I ended up putting the sway bar back on because my DD is off the road for a little while, so my XJ is pulling double duty again.
 
My homebrew disconnects are made from rod ends, all thread and bits and pieces from the front and rear swaybars. I'll post a pic later.
 
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