1999 Build Plan

I am new to Cherokees, Jeeps, and 4X4s and forums. A few months ago a friend of mine was showing me his XJ and it really got me interested. I bought a 1999 Cherokee Sport with 100K mi in good shape. It has an automatic trans, NP231 transfer case, open differentials, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 3.55 gears, The front springs have not sagged at all the rear has sagged about half an inch. The previous owner never took it off road.

My Jeep will be a daily driver so at first I wanted to throw a couple of spacers and shackles to lift it quick and cheep. Then I read about blocks and axle wrap, and shackles and wearing springs out quick, spacers don’t flex,. Then I decided on a little more expensive lift kit. But again I read about shocks that are way too stiff for a daily driver and they wear out quick. Next I read about parts needing to be replaced after a year or two on several of the kits. Those seemed to be common remarks for most of the more affordable kits. My friend loves his OME lift and it seems like everyone on the forums love them too. I just can’t bring myself to spend $650 for just the springs and shocks for a 2 inch lift.

I spent a lot of time researching lift kits and components that would give me a good ride and not break the bank. I compared what was in many of the kits that are available and added the price of the missing components that I think would be needed to make them work so that I could compare the total price of each of the kits with the extra components.






I know the table I put together is not complete and prices will be out of date soon but I think it may be helpful to someone that is trying to compare lift kits and the cost of extra equipment needed to finish a lift.

I found Rock Lizards (GottaBeJeep) budget boost at www.rocklizardfabrications.com/home_brew_budget_boost.htm and it looks great to me. After looking some more I found a post from GottaBeJeep showing CarQuest/Moog CC784 springs instead of the ZJ springs. These give more height, about 2.25”. This is the way I will go. Since I have a 99 I am expecting vibes at 3 inches. I will start out with a transfer case drop. If that doesn’t work I will do an SYE like the one at www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm. This is a hack-n-tap style that allows you to use a front drive shaft in the rear. After searching a lot I never could find a relative strength comparison between the front and rear drive shafts. Does anyone have real numbers or a link to anyone else that has numbers?

I will be going with 31” BFG All Terrain TA KO tires because they seem to be the best all around performers that are good on the road at a reasonable price. I plan on putting an Aussie Locker on it. The Aussie is a lot cheaper than the Powertrax and those are the only lunchbox lockers that I found for the 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 differential.

I also plan on doing a few things I read about in the book High-Performance Jeep Cherokee XJ Builders Guide by Eric Zappe. This book was very helpful and gave me a lot to think about. The following modifications seem to help a lot for little or no money:

Grind Trac Bar Mount to flex more if needed Page 27
Grind Spring Mounts for LCAS to flex more if needed Page 27
ZJ Tie Rod swap Page 57
GoFerit tie rod flip insert Page 59
ZJ Pitman arm 1" drop if needed Page 60
PH8A Oil Filter Page 107
DynoMax Muffler Page 105

I also plan on building some rock rails and adding some front recovery points.

So what do you think? Am I forgetting anything important? Are there cheaper sources for the components listed (Note: I included shipping in the prices)? Are there better alternatives to the components listed that I should consider?

From my study this lift should be very comfortable on the road and quite capable off road. Unfortunately I tore my Achilles tendon a few weeks back and I won’t be able to do anything for months. The injury did allow me to spend a lot of time surfing the web and researching what I want to do.

You've researched the shit out of that one. Good summary of information for other newbies to plan. What is your main off road use going to be? I haven't done it myself, but from threads I read before, it seemed like a lot of people recommended putting your first locker in the front. Better road manners in 2 wd and better ability to climb obstacles in 4wd. Just throwing out ideas!

It will be my daily driver and I hope to hit the trails about once a month. I live in the desert and have been out a couple of times to the Jawbone Canyon area in Southern California. I have thought about it. One of the posts I read talked about most of the weight transfering to the rear axle on hills and that would mean you would want the locker in the rear first.

I would bet that you were great at doing your homework throughout your school career. I thought that I researched a boatload but you're in the major leagues. However, I still would like to share some thoughts with you.

Your xj sounds like a great platform to work with. If it is to be your DD for some time, then your planning will be good to make the improvements you've mentioned in some type of order to minimize down time. Not being in a hurry allows you to wait for good deals on parts to surface as well. For me, not rushing into regearing expenses allowed me to act on the perfect axle swap when it showed up. End of year sales...vendor specials...Craigslist.

My jeep started as a wreck I found in Albuquerque so it was not in commission for six months while I rebuilt and made improvements. I really have no idea what a stock xj can do but wish I did so I could compare improvements I have made. You have the opportunity to really test your stock unit thoroughly while you gather parts for various improvements. Take six months to get to know your cherokee and what it can do barebones. Then get going on changes which you now know you want to make and why. Better shocks, higher suspension, improved brakes, more aggressive tires...the list is nearly endless. Good luck and good jeeping.

I will be keeping an eye on Craigslist for a few of the things I need. I am also hoping Monroe will have a sale soon so I can get the shocks cheap. I have taken it off road a couple of times as I sais with worn Revos in the front and new Long Trail street tires in the back it has made it up some pretty steep hills. I am sure that with better tires and lockers I would have made it up a couple more hills. But the Tires have to wait for the lift. I have also taken some measurements that might be interesting to others. I have made no modifications to my jeep so I believe these are near factory shock length and ride height measurements.

Factory Ride Height according to several sources on the web (Center of Wheel to Fender) Front17.5 Rear17

My ride Height Left Front 18, Right Front 17.75, Left Rear 17, Right Rear 16.75

My Shock Length Jeep resting on Flat Ground Front16.5, Rear 16.75

Shock Lengths with my Sway Bars Connected Opposite Corner Wheels In The Air (Full Flex?) Front compressed 13.875, Front Extended 17.75, Rear Compressed 14.25, Rear Extended 18.25. Yes there are too many decimals there I just used a tape measure and converted it to decimals. I want to make these same measurements with the sway bars disconnected before I change anything else. I suspect they will change quite a bit. It was hitting the bumpstop but not deflecting them very much and the extendended shocks should sag down quite a bit more. I should will be able too use these measurements too see how my modifications change things. It may also help me decide how tall my bumpstops need to be.

xjbrian said:

I will be keeping an eye on Craigslist for a few of the things I need. I am also hoping Monroe will have a sale soon so I can get the shocks cheap. I have taken it off road a couple of times as I sais with worn Revos in the front and new Long Trail street tires in the back it has made it up some pretty steep hills. I am sure that with better tires and lockers I would have made it up a couple more hills. But the Tires have to wait for the lift. I have also taken some measurements that might be interesting to others. I have made no modifications to my jeep so I believe these are near factory shock length and ride height measurements.

Factory Ride Height according to several sources on the web (Center of Wheel to Fender) Front17.5 Rear17

My ride Height Left Front 18, Right Front 17.75, Left Rear 17, Right Rear 16.75

My Shock Length Jeep resting on Flat Ground Front16.5, Rear 16.75

Shock Lengths with my Sway Bars Connected Opposite Corner Wheels In The Air (Full Flex?) Front compressed 13.875, Front Extended 17.75, Rear Compressed 14.25, Rear Extended 18.25. Yes there are too many decimals there I just used a tape measure and converted it to decimals. I want to make these same measurements with the sway bars disconnected before I change anything else. I suspect they will change quite a bit. It was hitting the bumpstop but not deflecting them very much and the extendended shocks should sag down quite a bit more. I should will be able too use these measurements too see how my modifications change things. It may also help me decide how tall my bumpstops need to be.

Click to expand...

Are there any stock ride heights that measure to like the top of the hood at some point? perhaps a headlight or tail light? My fenders are cut

Your chart is cool,but it doesn't address the "Performence" differences.

emr1101 said:

Are there any stock ride heights that measure to like the top of the hood at some point? perhaps a headlight or tail light? My fenders are cut

Click to expand...

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=912893

I have never seen measurements to the hood or lights.

I agree there are definately performance differences. I really am a noob so I don't have any data on that. Just what I have seen in the forums.

Edelbrock is having a sale on shocks right now. They come out to be right around what you expect to pay for the Monroe's. Here's the link http://store.edelbrock.com/3398384-01cherokeexjfront.aspx

bravo on your attention to detail, i have, likewise been researching for a few years but at no time have i had the motivation to graph the information. I think this is a great starting point to see whats out there and price differences, from this graph alone you can skip a few steps and start researching performance and durability among the different companies...
Suggestion: you should add OME to your graph, being that it is a common consideration.
make it sticky with a disclaimer on pricing

xjbrian said:

I am new to Cherokees, Jeeps, and 4X4s and forums. A few months ago a friend of mine was showing me his XJ and it really got me interested. I bought a 1999 Cherokee Sport with 100K mi in good shape. It has an automatic trans, NP231 transfer case, open differentials, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 3.55 gears, The front springs have not sagged at all the rear has sagged about half an inch. The previous owner never took it off road.

My Jeep will be a daily driver so at first I wanted to throw a couple of spacers and shackles to lift it quick and cheep. Then I read about blocks and axle wrap, and shackles and wearing springs out quick, spacers don’t flex,. Then I decided on a little more expensive lift kit. But again I read about shocks that are way too stiff for a daily driver and they wear out quick. Next I read about parts needing to be replaced after a year or two on several of the kits. Those seemed to be common remarks for most of the more affordable kits. My friend loves his OME lift and it seems like everyone on the forums love them too. I just can’t bring myself to spend $650 for just the springs and shocks for a 2 inch lift.

I spent a lot of time researching lift kits and components that would give me a good ride and not break the bank. I compared what was in many of the kits that are available and added the price of the missing components that I think would be needed to make them work so that I could compare the total price of each of the kits with the extra components.

I know the table I put together is not complete and prices will be out of date soon but I think it may be helpful to someone that is trying to compare lift kits and the cost of extra equipment needed to finish a lift.

I found Rock Lizards (GottaBeJeep) budget boost at www.rocklizardfabrications.com/home_brew_budget_boost.htm and it looks great to me. After looking some more I found a post from GottaBeJeep showing CarQuest/Moog CC784 springs instead of the ZJ springs. These give more height, about 2.25”. This is the way I will go. Since I have a 99 I am expecting vibes at 3 inches. I will start out with a transfer case drop. If that doesn’t work I will do an SYE like the one at www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm. This is a hack-n-tap style that allows you to use a front drive shaft in the rear. After searching a lot I never could find a relative strength comparison between the front and rear drive shafts. Does anyone have real numbers or a link to anyone else that has numbers?

I will be going with 31” BFG All Terrain TA KO tires because they seem to be the best all around performers that are good on the road at a reasonable price. I plan on putting an Aussie Locker on it. The Aussie is a lot cheaper than the Powertrax and those are the only lunchbox lockers that I found for the 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 differential.

I also plan on doing a few things I read about in the book High-Performance Jeep Cherokee XJ Builders Guide by Eric Zappe. This book was very helpful and gave me a lot to think about. The following modifications seem to help a lot for little or no money:

Grind Trac Bar Mount to flex more if needed Page 27
Grind Spring Mounts for LCAS to flex more if needed Page 27
ZJ Tie Rod swap Page 57
GoFerit tie rod flip insert Page 59
ZJ Pitman arm 1" drop if needed Page 60
PH8A Oil Filter Page 107
DynoMax Muffler Page 105

I also plan on building some rock rails and adding some front recovery points.

So what do you think? Am I forgetting anything important? Are there cheaper sources for the components listed (Note: I included shipping in the prices)? Are there better alternatives to the components listed that I should consider?

From my study this lift should be very comfortable on the road and quite capable off road. Unfortunately I tore my Achilles tendon a few weeks back and I won’t be able to do anything for months. The injury did allow me to spend a lot of time surfing the web and researching what I want to do.

Click to expand...

OME also makes a kit with 3 inch springs and its like 40 bucks more than the 2 inch kit. It also comes with shocks that's why they are expensive but they are supposed to ride better than stock. I have the 3 inch coils for mine but i have not installed them yet!

xjbrian said:

It will be my daily driver and I hope to hit the trails about once a month. I live in the desert and have been out a couple of times to the Jawbone Canyon area in Southern California. I have thought about it. One of the posts I read talked about most of the weight transfering to the rear axle on hills and that would mean you would want the locker in the rear first.

Click to expand...

Agreed for sure! Locker in the rear for sand.

I did the rock lizard 2" lift you talked about. It worked great and I got a bonafide 2" lift for $70. I've been running that for two months with pretty good results. Get some rubbing on the front tires when I turn all the way. Thinking about adding some wheel spacers to the front. Rubbing on the back tires b/c of rear sway bar. According to the forum most people lose the rear sway bar completely. I just used a BFH to bend the sway bar out of the way. 31x10.5x15 on stock wheels.

Okay I added a couple of OME columns. I believe these kits would give the best ride and last a long time. If my springs and shocks don't last I will probably replace them with OME stuff. But that would happen a little bit at a time.


EL JEFE 09,

Thanks for the tip on the Edelbrock shocks, I will check them out.

Forget the kits and piece together your own kit using the best/most affordable parts.

After buying my zone kit as a base to start with I now think I should have done that in the first place. All thats left of my zone lift now are the front springs and lower control arms.

Dave