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ABS Pump Removal

BAR01XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
KCMO
I have a 2001 Cherokee that was equiped with ABS. I swapped out the D35 for a D44 with TJ rear brakes. Ever since I've been struggling with even lousier brakes than before the swap.

I've seen statements that the disabled ABS pump can cause issues with proper bleeding, and I'd like to persue removal. I know there are people here that have done it, but haven't found any info on how. Does anyone have a write up or some before and after pics, a list of what's needed, etc. While I'm in there I'm hoping to swap out the prop valve for some thing set up for disc/disc.

Thank you for your help.
 
I'm pretty sure I've seen other posts on this so perhaps another search might help you.

In theory it's pretty straight-forward: remove the ABS pump (or simply ignore it) and plumb the lines straight through. Starting from the brakes the pressure lines go to a proportioning valve, and then travel up to the brake master cylinder. You can experiment with different setups (master cylinders, proportioning valves, etc.) but remember that this is the system that makes your car stop, and the factory one is built for many different situations including panic stops in rain, ease of use in normal driving, etc. It's unlikely you'd do better than the factory - so a good path is to replicate an existing setup.

If no-one else answers this I'll take a look at my 97 ABS XJ and 98 non-ABS TJ to see what the differences are and post a better suggestion :)
 
I haven't removed my pump yet, but I've looked into it and it should be fairly simple. You'll notice the brake lines run from the proportioning valve to the ABS pump and from there to the wheels. All that is needed it to make up short pieces of brake lines that connect to the lines coming from the wheels to the ones coming from the proportioning valve and then remove the ABS pump. Note, the proportioning valve on the ABS models have only two lines exit from it while non ABS models have 3 lines exit from it, so either make use of the blanked off plug on the back of the proportioning valve to link up the third, or split if off somewhere else.

The whole thing is fairly logical, just have a look at where the brake lines run from and too - compare with a non ABS model and it all becomes clear.
 
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