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trying to pick an axle... help?

RedJeep2.0

RedJeep2.0

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Vancouver, WA
im thinking about a narrow track waggy 44 for the front, and an rodeo 44 for the back.

i have a 30/8.25 with 3.55's and a lockright on it now.

i drive my jeep every day and need narrow axles that way i can still go where all my jeep friends go ans i dont have to get big flares.

what do you think?

i have some stuff for sale in n.w, and im going to use that money for this?


good idea? any year you think is better?

im hoping to find a rodeo 44 with 4.56 or 4.88s and i know im going to have to regear the waggy 44.
 
now im running 33's on the street and 34 super swampers on the trail

im trying to keep it friendly on the street and run 35's maybe if i get a good deal 36 or 37's


i dont really like mud
i stick to trails and some rock but noting to crazy

i love the snow!!!!!!

IMG00114.jpg
 
Last edited:
The 30 and 8.25 will hold up to 35's when locked if you stay out of the skinny pedal when your bound up, this is on stock shafts with 29 spline 8.25. This is the combo I run and it has served me fairly well, I am sure that eventually I will blow out a shaft so I carry spares.

-Alex
 
i know that.
most of my friends run 30/44 and 35s locked front and rear
but i dont want to have to worry about braking.
and i want to re-gear soon so i might as well go big.
44 front and rear, 4 wheel disc, manual hubs in the front and not having to worry about braking an axle and being the ONE who holds up the group while i fix my axle.
 
I am doing a front and rear axle swap right now. I am using a 1985 Waggy D44 front and a Honda Passport D44 rear. I read about this same axle swap in JP mag, they installed them in a TJ. On the rear diff when I got it tore apart and cut off the spring pads, then located them to where they needed to be for the XJ I noticed that the leaf springs were going to hit the brake calipers as soon as they flexed. So now the plan changed and I am doing a 4 link and coil springs. I belive the Honda Passport, Izuzu Rodeo, and the Trooper are all about the same width, just pay close attention to the caliper location. Oh also the U bolt spring plate ends up real close to the axle/ housing bolt flange. On the front diff Treks offroad builds a bitchen front truss that they will set up with your coil spring pads upper control arm mounts and a track bar mount all welded up and ready to install on your diff. Just tell them what steering you are going to run. They will send you the lower control arm brackets to weld on yourself. All in all it costs about $475.00. That is what I am using on mine. To me it is worth the cost so its that much less I have to fab, go to their web site and check it out.
 
pretty much everyone that I've watch put a rodeo 44 in the rear, has taken it out - complaining of metric brake lines, odd length shafts and hard to get spares and harder to get alloys, and weird pinion stuff...

sometimes going with whats 'common' and 'normal' isnt a bad plan. axles are one of those times...

XJ44 rear, Chry 8.25 29 spline rear, Ford 8.8 rear, Ford 9 rear, D60 rear... common rear axles...

HP44 front, waggy 44 front, XJ (HP)D30 front, 60 front <-- common front axles with lost of parts available...


:thumbup:
 
greenmachine74 said:
I am doing a front and rear axle swap right now. I am using a 1985 Waggy D44 front and a Honda Passport D44 rear. I read about this same axle swap in JP mag, they installed them in a TJ. On the rear diff when I got it tore apart and cut off the spring pads, then located them to where they needed to be for the XJ I noticed that the leaf springs were going to hit the brake calipers as soon as they flexed. So now the plan changed and I am doing a 4 link and coil springs. I belive the Honda Passport, Izuzu Rodeo, and the Trooper are all about the same width, just pay close attention to the caliper location. Oh also the U bolt spring plate ends up real close to the axle/ housing bolt flange. On the front diff Treks offroad builds a bitchen front truss that they will set up with your coil spring pads upper control arm mounts and a track bar mount all welded up and ready to install on your diff. Just tell them what steering you are going to run. They will send you the lower control arm brackets to weld on yourself. All in all it costs about $475.00. That is what I am using on mine. To me it is worth the cost so its that much less I have to fab, go to their web site and check it out.
Click to expand...

thank you.. thats what i was looking for is that the rodeo is almost to narrow...


XJ_ranger said:
pretty much everyone that I've watch put a rodeo 44 in the rear, has taken it out - complaining of metric brake lines, odd length shafts and hard to get spares and harder to get alloys, and weird pinion stuff...

sometimes going with whats 'common' and 'normal' isnt a bad plan. axles are one of those times...

XJ44 rear, Chry 8.25 29 spline rear, Ford 8.8 rear, Ford 9 rear, D60 rear... common rear axles...

HP44 front, waggy 44 front, XJ (HP)D30 front, 60 front <-- common front axles with lost of parts available...


:thumbup:
Click to expand...


i dint even think about the brake lines being mm.
and i didnt know the rodeo 44 that much diff.

the narrow track waggy 44 is still going to the front.

is there anything new or old that will go in to the rear and still be the same or close to the same track size?
i know the xl 44, i have the 8.25
but is there a dana 60?
 
You could go with the 8.8 rear with an adaptor/spacer for the correct lug pattern to match the waggy front. The 8.8 is a little more narrow anyway so it might work out ok. D60 have you ever seen one of those? Damn what a heffer! If you wanna run 35s I doubt you need a 60 plus that thing is so heavy it might actually make you lose mpg ha ha.
 
Forgot to mention dont forget a little truss action when you do all this so just in case you get a little carried away out at the dunes... Well you know how that story ends.
 
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