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Radio relay blown? Electrically challenged

firefight343

NAXJA Forum User
Okay, so, I had the factory tape deck/radio in my '91, and thought I'd be cool and install a newer CD head unit from my totaled '84. I cut and splice the wires from the car to the new deck, and checked all the wiring 3x. I followed the wiring diagrams, both for the car and new deck to a 'T' (being as the coloring didn't match).

Long story short I get everything hooked up and turn the key...no power to the head unit. Sure enough, whilst drinking yet another beer I notice that by battery terminal, while not fully "on" the post, was still making contact with the post (I blame the Newcastle haha). I check the wires to the head unit with a multimeter, and find out that the ACC/Ignition wire isn't getting any current, everything else checked out okay (i.e. speakers, battery wire, dimmer, etc). Checked the fuse under the dash; unfortunately not blown, and additionally, the backlights for the heater/ac/fan controls no longer work (but the cig lighter does) and power door locks have been on the fritz...I think I messed up a relay. Any ideas? I'm getting sick of humming to myself and need to get my stero working asap :)

TIA
Ed
 
With the wiring changes (possibly wrong), it's pretty tought o diagnose. How about putting tape with labels on the wires, and hooking back up like it was before (same color). Then test. If it all works, you're rewiring something wrong. If it doesn't, you can diagnose then. I think it's unlikely that your ignition switch went bad while you were rewiring your stereo.
 
Relays only switch current. It has to be there to switch, and the circuit that does the switching has to control power to send the signal.

Beer + 12VDC wiring = get a voltmeter, wiring diagram, and enjoy learning the wonderful world of automotive electrical wiring. It's pretty much a one man show, especially when throwing in new stereo equipment. You wll get to check every connection again, especially the why, not the how. Don't assume the wires are what they are unless you have a trusted reference.

The backlighting issue could simply be a burnt out lamp.
 
Right on guys, thanks a lot for all of your input. I rewired my splices according the wiring diagrams I used initially (provided on the underside of each head unit) I cross referenced them with Crutchfield's diagrams and everything checked out okay. Got the voltmeter and, as said before, the only wire not receiving current is the Acc/Ignition wire. And this is where things get kind of interesting, today I attempt to start it for the drive to work, it took me about 5 mins of waiting and trying again to get it to finally start. It trys to turn over, but now takes about 5-6 trys off of a cold start. My battery's sitting between 10-12V...could this possibly mean that it might actually be the ignition switch jd4x426 was talking about?

I'm way new to this auto electrical stuff (unfortunately by choice :) ) so if there's anything else you guys can chime in on, I won't get offended if you need to talk to me like a 4 years old (I'd actually prefer that haha). Again, I can't thank you guys enough for the advice.
 
I don't understand the Acc/Ignition wire. Do you have the Jeep XY factory wiring diagram? Is that what they call that wire? Your battery is getting low too. You should charge it. Sometimes Jeeps won't start even if they crank, due to low voltage.
 
I think you need to wire your factory connectors back on and get a wiring harness from crutchfield or even your local wal-mart they are about 8 bucks. It'll be much easier on you! Make sure you check your ground wire! :cheers:
 
FlexdXJ: my second "doh!" moment was when I realized that I cut the wires too close to the factory harness and cant "easily" splice them back but solder should do the trick. The thing is that, even if I were to do that, I know that the new(er) head unit is good and in working order, so putting in the old deck woudn't seem to do too much if I indeed did fry something down the line.

Yeah I've been looking at wal-mart and best buy for the wiring harness but can't find any that will fit the XJ (including the ones that say Dodge/Chry Co 19**-1995 or what ever). I'll prob. just go to Cruthcfield and make it easier on myself the second time around.

winterbeater: There are roughly 12-15 wires coming from the Jeep itself that lead into the head unit wiring harness. Including 2 for each speaker, a wire for battery power, one for the ground, and another for the acc/ignition (im assuming it allows for the radio to be on while the engine isn't running) thats the one thats not getting any current. As far as the starting issue goes, I assume its just my batt. I know that it should be sitting closer to 12, but I thought I'd include that for the potential issue jd4x426 brought up.

Thank you all again.
Ed
 
Are other acc items without power, like turn signals, heater, wipers? If it was an ignition switch you wouldn't have power to these items. The battery wire is for memory and the acc what the radio operates off of.
 
Ignore.Antz, I think you might have something here...my heater, wipers, signals, etc all work when the key is on acc. The head unit does not. I didn't know that the battery wire was for the deck memory, and acc for the actualy power, I had just assumed that "battery was the main power source, and acc was simply an additional wire to differentiate between when the key was fully on or just on acc. Any ideas as to what it might be?
 
You have a Jeep vehicle wiring diagram, right? So check in the audio section. My 2000 has a red/white wire coming off fuse 17 of the junction box (interior fuse box). So I would make sure that my head unit switched wire was hooked up to that wire and verify power at both sides of that fuse. Have you done that yet?
 
Nope not yet, but as soon as this rain lets up I'll let you guys know how it goes. I never bothered to check the fuse with the multimeter, I just looked at it and saw that it wasnt blown and figured I was in good shape. I'll try the multimeter and new fuse and see what happens.

Ed
 
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