No start, Ignition?

95' XJ 4.0 auto.
3 times in the past week or so I have gone to start my Heep and it will fire up but shut down as soon as I let off the ignition. Giving it gas wont keep it running. When the key is positioned just before engaging the starter I do hear a click coming from the rear. I assume this is the fuel pump getting power. The gauges will start to work but die as soon as the XJ. When the key is turned the reverse of start to acc? the radio doesnt work and gauges dont work.
The first couple times this happened it started after turning the key back and forth and a couple times.
Last night (when I was on a date of all things) I pulled into the parking spot at the restaurant it made a sound like the starter engaged and it died before I even put it in park. For 5 min. or so before it died it smelled like something was burning.
I messed with it a little bit including taking off the neg. batterie cable and leaving it off while we ate. Took the plastic off the steering column and nothing looks burned in there.
Does the ignition supply some constant power to something including the radio and gauges after the starter has done its job? And could that part of the ignition be fried?
This is my DD so I need to get it running soon.
Thanks

So what is the condition now? Does it crank? Does it start at all?

It cranks and fires up but dies immediately after I let off the ignition.
I ended up having to leave it at the restaurant and take my date home in a taxi. Got it towed home this afternoon but it is not drivable.

My old BMW had that exact symptom. What it turned out to be was the plug into the airflow sensor. While cranking, the fuel pump was getting power. After the key was released, the fuel pump only continued to get power when the air flow sensor sensed that air was being flowed. It is probably a safety feature. Try wiggling the plug at the air flow sensor to make sure it is making good contact. Maybe you'll get lucky like I did.

There is a relay under the hood that controls the power to the fuel pump. Most likely it is fubar. All the relays are the same so you can diagnose it by doing a musical chair routine with the relays. Sorry I don't have a pix of the location on that year model.

If the relay does not do the trick, you might be experiencing an ignition switch problem.

you can also sniff the relays, if its burnt out, you should be able to tell.

are your gauges not working normally? or is it a by-product of your jeep dying.

sounds like it could be your fuel pump though, they go out, and sometimes they go out sporatically.
if the fuel pump relay was gone, your pump would not run, AT ALL, no fuel, no start whatsoever.



try this, start it up, and when it dies, hit the schraeder valve on your fuel rail, if its completely dry, your fuel pump isnt keeping up. you can confirm this with a screw on fuel pressure gauge.

dreher said:

Last night (when I was on a date of all things) I pulled into the parking spot at the restaurant it made a sound like the starter engaged and it died before I even put it in park. For 5 min. or so before it died it smelled like something was burning.

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Any chance this vehicle might have an after market remote starter installed in it? If it does and it is flaking out, it could cause the starter to engage.

If not, I would be highly suspect of the ignition switch.

Possibles:

• Fuel Pump Relay
• Ignition Switch
• Ballast Resistor (if present)

As old_man mentioned, the relay is pretty much a standard part (should still be standard DIN relays all through the vehicle. You'd do well to add a couple of spares to your extra fuses/bulbs box anyhow - they're fiarly cheap...) and the "test by substitution" is valid - especially if you have a "known good" tester relay.

The ignition switch is a possible, but I'd have to look up electrical diagrams to find out precisely why this is so (there are often two circuits for powering the fuel pump and ignition, with added resistance in the "run" circuit vice the "start" circuit.)

If you have the ballast resistor, it will be a small ceramic dingus behind the driver's side headlamp. The resistance value should be stamped on one of the terminals - and it's probably 5 ohms or less. Put your DMM on the lowest resistance test range (probably 200ohms,) disconnect the wires from the ballast, and connect the DMM. The test value should be within 10% of the nominal value - but it may just be "blown open" (infinite resistance) and want changing.

Hallo. Don't forget the Automatic Shutdown Relais , it can gives also problems with fueldelivery and spark. :wave1:

wim hoppenbrouwers said:

Hallo. Don't forget the Automatic Shutdown Relais , it can gives also problems with fueldelivery and spark. :wave1:

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Good point - it should also be a standard DIN relay, tho, and therefore testable by substitution as well.

Im a bit green when it comes to working on cars so I have some stupid questions.
Are the relays the square multi pronged things in the plastic fuse box on the passenger side uder the hood? If so I did the musical chairs with em and all looked good but nothing changed.
Funny that the smell test was mentioned I climbed around on the floor and on the engine compartment sniffing everything. That was a no-go but I got some funny looks from my date so that was worth it.
The gauges act like normal on start up but the XJ only runs for a couple seconds and it does sound like its firing it just wont keep firing. Will a fuel pressure gauge hold the reading or do I need someone to crank it over while I watch the gauge?
No remote start on this Heep.
Oh, where is the ignition switch located? I took a part the steering column the night it died thinking I might be able to see the problem and bypass it but didnt see anything and am assuming its shin level under the dash.
I'm having the morning coffee now and then I am off to freeze my balls off in 15 degree temps.
Thanks for all the replys guys.

The ignition switch on the steering column (down near the floorboards) will get out of index and cause this. When in start it powers everything, then goes to run when letting off the springload. The rod from the key cylinder to the switch makes it move, the two screws on the switch itself adjust it.

It's thin and flat, has lots of multicolored wires into it and up the column. It's on top of the column and takes three hands to adjust . . .

Well I think I found it. L eft side looks fried eh?

Cool, eh! Fried! Looks like you sleuthed it out.

Is duralast a decent brand to replace with? Found one at auto zone for $32. Dealer couldnt tell me what brand they had but they wanted $89 for it.

Forget the dealer. The autozone one is just as good.

Damn winterbeater, you always online?Haha
Thanks a ton for your's and everyones help! I am trying to learn as much as possible but it seems like it doesnt matter how much or what I read, its always something else that breaks.