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i cut the rear pinch seam welds

M

mitsumotors

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Winnipeg
so when i was trimming my rear fenders for the bushwacker install i cut the seam to the point that there is a 1/4 inch gap and even up to a 1/2 inch gap in a couple places. what is the big deal, what problems can i run into? i don't ever do any rock climbing, only wheeling in snow, sand and mud.
 
no, as long as you either weld some new sheet metal in there to close the gap or just silicone the space , I am asuming there is still part of the seam still pinch welded on the top right? for just snow and sand ans mud you'll be ok, but definately fill the space with something so that mud and stuff doesn't find it's way into the body and rust away.
 
No biggie, just spay some foam up in there to fill it up to keep sand/mud out, and trim it down to look smooth on the surface, and hit it with some under coating.

Mac
 
macs97XJ said:
No biggie, just spay some foam up in there to fill it up to keep sand/mud out, and trim it down to look smooth on the surface, and hit it with some under coating.
Click to expand...

I've always heard that the spray expanding foam will hold water and rust out the metal it touches. I've seen a lot of rusty Scouts that someone used foam to fix the holes.

I would weld in some new metal to fill in the gaps.
 
mitsumotors said:
so when i was trimming my rear fenders for the bushwacker install i cut the seam to the point that there is a 1/4 inch gap and even up to a 1/2 inch gap in a couple places. what is the big deal, what problems can i run into? i don't ever do any rock climbing, only wheeling in snow, sand and mud.
Click to expand...

Oh my GAWD it'll fold like TACO!

Or not.

Like the other guys said, it's really just a matter of mud, snow, road crud getting up into the body.

And really, if your rig stays as filthy as mine, you might not bother with it.

What's a little more dirt behind the interior panels?

Robert
 
I did the same thing without realizing what I had done until it was too late. I went back through and stitch welded the entire length of the wheel well on both sides. I used a pair of vice grips to pinch the two pieces back together and then began welding. Not hard, but took a VERY long time!!
 
RoXJok said:
I did the same thing without realizing what I had done until it was too late. I went back through and stitch welded the entire length of the wheel well on both sides. I used a pair of vice grips to pinch the two pieces back together and then began welding. Not hard, but took a VERY long time!!
Click to expand...

hows that holding up? any embrittlement?
 
souske said:
hows that holding up? any embrittlement?
Click to expand...

None at all!!! When I said it took a VERY long time, I meant it. That was because, due to the thin sheetmetal, I stich welded about a half inch at a time. I would jump all around to make sure that no one spot got too hot.
 
I also went through the pinch seam when I installed my Bushwackers. I just sealed it with a flexible joint sealer.

Funny thing is, I measured exactly as per the Bushwacker install instructions - although they mention to be carefull at the bottom rear not to go through the pinch seam, I guess the seams are different on the older Cherokees and if fitting them to the later ones (I have a 2000), you will go through the seam if cutting according to the instuctions.
 
RoXJok said:
I did the same thing without realizing what I had done until it was too late. I went back through and stitch welded the entire length of the wheel well on both sides. I used a pair of vice grips to pinch the two pieces back together and then began welding. Not hard, but took a VERY long time!!
Click to expand...

That was my experience. I'd bought a rig that someone had started who'd cut the pich seams. Its amazing how much stiffer the rear end was once I completed the welding.

Don't do foam. Its like jamming a sponge in there and it adds no strength.

The welding DID suck, but was worth it in the long run. I don't have nearly the sqeaks I did nor nearly the dirt inside.
 
macs97XJ said:
No biggie, just spay some foam up in there to fill it up to keep sand/mud out, and trim it down to look smooth on the surface, and hit it with some under coating.

Mac
Click to expand...

Dont do that. Spray expand foam is the biggest sponge ever. it will rot out really fast that way. just find someone to tac weld it back together and use some silicone to fill the rest of the gaps.
 
PacificEd said:
I've always heard that the spray expanding foam will hold water and rust out the metal it touches. I've seen a lot of rusty Scouts that someone used foam to fix the holes.

I would weld in some new metal to fill in the gaps.
Click to expand...


Don't blame rusty Scouts on expanding foam.:laugh::rof:
 
Well, I don't think anybody said it was okay to cut it out -- it's just not the end of the world.

Mine was cut about halfway through when I bought it.

I wasn't careful when I trimmed some more for my TJ flares, and cut it to about 3/4 gone.

Then I took a good hard hit in the drivers door jamb a year and a half ago. Buckled the quarter panel, and actually opened the pinch seam a half inch or so.

18 months, 20,000 miles, and a dozen pretty abusive wheeling trips later, and it's still about the same. I do get mud and dirt in behind the interior panel, but like I said, my rig stays sorta grungy anyway.

What do you suppose is the big problem?

:dunno:

Robert

(I guess you could say the panels opened up because the pinch seam was compromised, and I guess I'd agree. But still, I just don't see it as such a big deal...)
 
Phil said:
LOL @ the guys who say it's ok to cut out the pinch seam.
Click to expand...

??? definately not the end of the world if it gets cut like the bushwacker instructions say how to cut it.
 
If your rear fenders are cut open to the point of getting mud and debris in to the opening, keep a close eye on the top of your D-pillars/C-pillars on a two door for cracking.

Hint, it's a unibody, it all ties together.
 
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