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I'm not seeing the rear main seal
- Thread starter mavrick
- Start date
91XJRubicXD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Staten Island, NY
The rear main seal is directly in front of the flywheel/driveplate. You have to remove the rear main bearing cap and pry the old seal half out of the bearing cap with a small screw driver. To remove the upper half, simply use a small brass punch and hammer. Carefully tap the punch upwards on one side of the seal, it will turn and start coming out the otherside, once you are able to get a pair of needle nose pliers on the protruding side, pull it slowly out until the full half is removed. Avoid damaging the crankshaft with the hammer. Remember there are two pieces to this seal, upper and lower halves. If you're still confused go out and buy a Haynes Repair Manual for your rig, Good Luck,
James
James
Maybe this will help. Lots of pictures:
http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811
I had the same "flat peice of metal". They call it a "bearing cap brace" in the write up. I had to remove it to get to the bearing cap.
They show a little peice of platic to help with inserting the new seal. Mine didn't come with that, so I made my own out of some old platic. It made the job of inserting the new seal much easier... for me anyway.
http://www.dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811
I had the same "flat peice of metal". They call it a "bearing cap brace" in the write up. I had to remove it to get to the bearing cap.
They show a little peice of platic to help with inserting the new seal. Mine didn't come with that, so I made my own out of some old platic. It made the job of inserting the new seal much easier... for me anyway.
ECKSJAY
Water is dirty
- Location
- Covington, WA
I seem to remember 75 or 85lbs on the bearing caps. $15 for a decent manual will help there.
Good write-up there...the only thing I'd add is that you can loosen (just a little) the next two bearing caps to help the crank take pressure off the upper half of the rear main. I did two of them that way and it worked out real well.
Sorry, I do not recall. I think I may have found the torque spec on-line, or in my Haynes manual.
ECKSJAY
Water is dirty
- Location
- Covington, WA
It also says:
12. Install the main bearing cap and torque the bolts to 80ft.lbs.
My 95 and the 93 I worked on didn't have bearing braces. Interesting. Never knew of such a thing.
I think the bearing brace was on later models?? My 97 has it... but the write up I was using didn't show one??
I think you are suppose to install the bearing cap at 80. The bearing brace goes on the same bolts as the bearing cap, and that should be torqued to 35.
I THINK that is what I did... but it's been several months and I honestly don't remember.
I think you are suppose to install the bearing cap at 80. The bearing brace goes on the same bolts as the bearing cap, and that should be torqued to 35.
I THINK that is what I did... but it's been several months and I honestly don't remember.
ECKSJAY
Water is dirty
- Location
- Covington, WA
That's what the write-up shows.
Yucca-Man
NAXJA Member # 683
- Location
- Castle Rock, CO
The main bearing brace was added in '96. Nice extra feature, as if t main bearings wasn't already good.
Jim www.yuccaman.com
