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rear shocks through floor

B

bigwhitey

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Brunswick, ME.
I plan to copy what shortxjdoug has done, but will it hit the sides of the holes during flex????

463d6692.jpg

e54f1f1d.jpg


I have no problems cutting the back of my jeep
blackrear.JPG
 
well, if you're not worried about cutting up the bed, do it, test flex it and cut as neccessary.
 
53guy said:
well, if you're not worried about cutting up the bed, do it, test flex it and cut as neccessary.
Click to expand...

Doing it straight up over the axle mount plate is about the only place I can go through with out moving the exhaust or removing the factory crossbrace.
There is very little room between the uni-frame rail and the fender.
 
I don't think you'll have a ton of movement, but maybe about half inch either way. You gotta remember the shackles and bushings really wont allow a whole lot of side movement of the axle, which would mean your shock shouldn't move a whole lot. Just don't break your shock off and you won't have an issue I don't think.
 
measure and cut your hole first then set your shock in there were you want it tack on the tabs so the shock is centered in your hole then weld it all up, my jeep don't race and mine do not rub at all
 
Well I finished it all up just now.
It feels different.
I now have 10" travel shocks instead of 8"
I'll flex it tomorrow before I paint it and cut off the old mounts.


Wish me luck
 
I've since herc'd the floor. the shocks just come in contact at full flex, but dont really rub or anything. next i want to space the bumps down a little more for those harder landings.
2uqnm0n.jpg
 
jjvande said:
I've since herc'd the floor. the shocks just come in contact at full flex, but dont really rub or anything. next i want to space the bumps down a little more for those harder landings.
2uqnm0n.jpg
Click to expand...


Wow those are high. How long are they?
 
those are 14" 7100s. as the jeep sits, with ~5" of lift, there's about 4.5" up travel. the rest is droop. I figure that if i go higher in the future all it will take is some new springs and bump adjustment for the new meats. right now the travel is limited by the spring droop and there's about an inch left in the shocks.
 
wow i love that setup i might want to do it. did you fab the shock mounts on axel? probley but how about the A-frame shock mount? can you buy one??
 
Flexed it when I got home and there is no side to side movement in the shocks. The shock eyes run paralel to the axle for front to rear movement.

Still have the old procomps in the rear I'll get some 5150's in the 10" flavor to match the front in the next week or two and it should ride great. Iplan for the lighter valving 170/
 
bigwhitey said:
Flexed it when I got home and there is no side to side movement in the shocks. The shock eyes run paralel to the axle for front to rear movement.

Still have the old procomps in the rear I'll get some 5150's in the 10" flavor to match the front in the next week or two and it should ride great. Iplan for the lighter valving 170/
Click to expand...

I would think you would want the shock bolts mounted front to back instead so the shock mount won't bind during compression and extension.

-Mike
 
definently turn the axle mount for the shock to 90 degrees, when i bought that jeep with the rear shocks like that we didn't realize it until we began tearing apart the rear the the bottom bushing in its straightforward orientation actually binds and limits uptravel, turn the bushing paralell to the tube to allow rotation and the setup should work fine. of course after long and painful shocktower experiences IMO it is a little frivolous, in my new rig ill be building a tube truss underneath to hardmount to the framerails the shocks will mount to that instead of using sh*tty bar pins and the weak body mounts, check out the incredible hulk's buildup thread in the picture forum and you will see what i'm talking about
 
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