Do I need a U-Joint or the Axle Shaft?

Ok this has been buggin me for some time now.

I have a 90 xj with a D30 up front. all stock. The passenger side u-joint is shot. it has over an inch of freeplay in it and then the tire will turn. it makes noise and simply needs replaced.

I'm currently replacing the oil pan, Rear main seal, gaskets and pickup tube, So I have decided to finally replace the bad u joint up front while working around the area.

Looking at the POS while connected to the jeep I cannot see any snap rings like on my driveshaft.
I dont know if this u-joint can be taken out and a new one swapped in or does the whole axle shaft need replaced? I searched the zones website and found soo many different u-joints and also front axle shafts(expensive)

can someone tell me if these u-joints are serviceable or do i have to bite the bulletand replace entire axle shaft?

http://www.autozone.com/N,11200178//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

ohh ya. i do NOT have ABS

You can replace the u-joint...you will need a u-joint press. Search on here and you'll find a how-to, it's pretty common.

An inch of freeplay? That sounds like a lot...like, the u-joint would be floating if it had an inch of free play. Do some research to make sure you know what is wrong. That doesn't sound right.

You don't need any Ujoint press, you can do it with a rock, a socket and a ball peen hammer. A vice helps. I carry a 4" c-clamp on the trail which also does the trick.

There are c-clips holding the caps in place on the inside of the ears.

If there really is 1" of play, I would get new shafts! The ears on your shafts are probably bent out of shape so when you put in a new Ujoint it will fail pretty quickly.

If you wheel it, consider upgrading to 297 shafts. On a 1990 XJ you more than likely have 260 shafts with the disco housing. If you can find lots of spares cheap in the junkyard...keep running them. Remeber to get the inner and outer axle shaft (in addition to the stub at the hub) for the passenger side.


While I wouldn't necessarily recommend this to anyone, I do know a mechanic, yes, a mechanic, who's got a 4 banger YJ with 4.88s on 35" TSLs, locked front and rear who keeps his 260 shafts. It's not for lack of parts availability....he just knows how to wheel and not break them!! He is pretty experienced and only running 4 angry squirrels though....so, it works for him (and yes, he does do some relatively nasty trails in his jeep!!) but I would definitely not recommend it to anyone.

Yah, and I used to do them with a socket and a BFH.
An investment in a cheap HF 4WD servce set will make teh R&R of that wheel joint a lot easier.

The clips holding the wheel joints (their official name) are on the inside of the ears, not the outside like drive shaft joints.

I supect the axle shafts (inner and outer) are fine, he just lost all the needle bearings and teh cross shafts are riding on the caps.

You will need a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut, and a 12pt, 13mm socket to remove the 3 "reverse torx" bolts holding the hub on.

Guys...he seems a little on the inexperienced side, I think recommending using a rock, socket, and a hammer may be a recipe for disaster...just sayin, lol.

Dude, get a press. Get some experience on how they are removed before you go trail-minimalist style on your u-joints.

What the F is this Ujoint press you guys are talking about???

A glorified, expensified C-clamp?? I use a cheap-o job lot (cheaper than walmart type store around here) made in china 4" C-clamp....pay as little or as much as you want for one!!


All you need is a clamp or a vice (both will do the same thing) and a hammer.


From experience...if there is really that much play in a Ujoint, even if it's just the needles that are gone....those ears are not going to hold a Ujoint tight. Do it and see. If there is as much play as he says, the Ujoints will wear out before he ever gets to use 4wheel drive.

Stock axle shafts are almost one time use only parts!!

mjma said:

What the F is this Ujoint press you guys are talking about???

A glorified, expensified C-clamp?? I use a cheap-o job lot (cheaper than walmart type store around here) made in china 4" C-clamp....pay as little or as much as you want for one!!


All you need is a clamp or a vice (both will do the same thing) and a hammer.


From experience...if there is really that much play in a Ujoint, even if it's just the needles that are gone....those ears are not going to hold a Ujoint tight. Do it and see. If there is as much play as he says, the Ujoints will wear out before he ever gets to use 4wheel drive.

Stock axle shafts are almost one time use only parts!!

Click to expand...

:roflmao:...yeah, basically a C-clamp with a hole in the bottom instead of a flat piece. The hole accepts different size adaptors so the u-joint can press through it. You can get them from Harbor Freight for like $20 so for that little $ it's a handly tool to keep with you.

Read http://stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm - you don't need the 36mm socket to replace the u-joints.

Jim www.yuccaman.com

Yucca-Man said:

Read http://stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm - you don't need the 36mm socket to replace the u-joints.

Jim www.yuccaman.com

Click to expand...

Jim, I like the link, but why would you want the hub on the axle stub when doing wheel joints?

The link shows a HF 4wd tool being used to change the u-joints, with no hub attached. party1:

I find it is easier to do without the hub attached and flopping arond like a dead chicken. For the few extra minutes it takes to free the axle from the hub, it may be less intimidating for a newbie to have it all laid out on the bench. Just did one tonight as a matter of fact.

Maybe it's my bench, but I found it pretty easy to swap axle u-joints with the hub assembly in place using a HF balljoint/u-joint press - not having to untorque and retorque to half-a-brazilian foot-pounds was nice too.

Jim www.yuccaman.com

Thanks for soo much advice. I have a 12 ton press, all the torx and E-bits i need including the correct 3/4 drive sockets to remove hub.
i was just unsure why there were no outer clips. inner clips explains a lot. Thanks.
Far from inexperienced, but not ashamed to ask for help.

Yes there is a inch easy of free play. never done u-joints but know how they work. the needles must be gone because when you rotate the wheel, you can see the u joint move then hit the ears or cups...and then the axle will rotate. the driver side is in good condition... except i noticed today there is gear oil coming from the drivers side axle shaft! Aghh, the list never ends on this XJ. so new ? what seals will i need to replace for the leaky axle shaft???

Side note--does the diff need drained and c-clips removed to do these axle shafts on the D30? I just replaced rear brakes, drums, and axle seals on the rear of my 94 XJ, I had to drain and remove c-clips...

Thanks again will read links in the AM

The passenger side is a two piece axle so you don't need to pop the cover to do u-joints.

If you're doing the diff seals (could be what your leak is), then the passenger side intermediate shaft (closest to the diff) is held in by a c-clip if I remember correctly.

my diff cover gasket is solid and dry. the leak is coming from the drivers side. i can see the fluid coming out of the axle tube and dripping on the ball joint and tires.

i just replaced the rear outer axle seals. there is a seal then bearings behind that. is this the same way on the front?

I tried using a c-clamp to remove mine and bent the clamp. It took a HF u-joint clamp with my pneumatic impact wrench and a mini-sledge to get them out of the XJ I just did this weekend. Get the $30 tool from HF, why screw around when you can have the correct tool for that cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335

i actually have that tool however i didnt know it could be used for u joints. i mainly used it on bushings and ball joints.

does anyone know what u-joints i need to buy? what part number? i prefer some greaseable type but if not whatever. just as long as not some cheapo type. are spicer any good? what about the duralast brand?

I prefer the Spicers.

Jim www.yuccaman.com

what are the part numbers i need for the spicers and where can i find a good price on them? I really dont know how much u-joints should cost. also, does anyone know of any parts stores NAPA, autozone, advanced auto, etc who carry the spicer line?

NAPA carries Spicer, or did - you may have to call and have them order 'em in. Most of the Autozone-type places will try to sell you the house brand first but may be able to get Spicers, depending on their buyers.

You can also order them online or check at local driveshaft/driveline shops.

This info is from Tom Woods' website, www.4xshaft.com:

Tom Woods said:

5-153X (~$12.00)
Very popular, inexpensive, and long lasting. Grease fitting located in the body of the cross, which lessens its torque capacity. A little looser fit than would be ideal for high speed applications

5-433-1x (~$25.00)
I consider this to be their best joint. This joint is stronger than the 5-153 for high impact loads. Grease fitting is located in the end of one of the bearing caps and the body of the cross is drilled with a small hole.

5-625X (~$20)
This is the joint Spicer supplies to OEM and they think it is the best joint they have ever made. This is a non-greaseable joint and we are continually changing these out on relatively new/low mileage vehicles. Most times, the joint haven't worn out, but failed because water entered the joint through the seals and started rusting, which caused a "squeaking noise".

Click to expand...

Jim www.yuccaman.com