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Rattle Can Help

StylerG

StylerG

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oklahoma City
Getting ready to do a rattle can paint job, and in putting the primer on it seems to be splotchy, am i going to have this same problem when i put the actual paint on it, or will this go away? Any color i should do that will eliminate this as best as possible, not trying to do something super nice, just want it all the same color for once!
 
its a spray can, its going to be hard to keep it from being blotchy, just try to keep even distance and even speed when coating, do thin coats and thicken them gradually, it may take more paint, but itll look better, and the coats will be nice and thick
 
Use Krylon rust tough or any can with a fan nozzle for gloss. I've done a couple this way and it looks decent, just doesn't last to long. If your doing flat olive drab or desert tan (or any other flat color) then it doesn't matter.
 
if its a big job it will honestly be cheaper to get a cheaper air or electric spray gun and buy the paint in 4 gallon can. for the price of one or two rattle cans you cab get 4 gallons and thinner and a cheap gun for 30 bucks ull be ahead than buying 6 ot 7 $8 cans of paint
 
herc it.

the whole exterior, just get roll on herculiner and let er rip.

ive seen it actually on a bronco, looked pretty cool with neon green offset
ie tie rod, diff cover, and other various parts


like he said, flats wont blotch really unless you really f it up.
and those fan nozzles do work good, i just can never seem to get a good thick coat out of them... maybe i do it wrong..
 
I'm in the process of repainting my XJ, I picked up a cheap cal-hawk gravity feed gun with two tips for $35, a gallon of XO-Rust (true Value brand) in safty orange and a gallon of primer, I'm under $100 with sand paper, masking tape etc. and I could have easily got away with only a half gallon of primer. which would have saved me $10, the results are far nicer than using spray bombs and just as cheap. I would recommend going this way, unless you are going flat, then just use a roller. I also saw that Duplicolor is selling gallons of paint in single stage for around $30 a can, my 79 may just get a coat of that.
 
try to pick a day to paint that there is little or no wind. and wetsand the splotch out w/400+ grit and a block. also, it helps to sand the old stuf with fine grit to give it something to bite on to. did you use something to clean the old paint off with, oil residue and road grime could be causing it to not stick
 
i used two different cleaners for the old paint. After washing i used one to take the wax and oils off, then after rough sanding another to pick up the dust and clean the new exposed surface. I painted the primer in a garage so wind wasnt a factor (unless my fans were windy) the only thing i could think of was the stupid fan nozzle which was hard to get a thick enough coat on to even cover the old surface. Either way...im looking for a cheap fix, but wanted a uniform look still. Was thinking flat black, but there is a red primer, i would love to have it red, but dont want to just leave it as a primer, dont want gloss....so has anyone had luck with the satin spray paint, or is there a treatment i could do to the red primer so i could use that?
 
StylerG said:
is there a treatment i could do to the red primer so i could use that?
Click to expand...


3 layers of clear coat...


:thumbup:

:D
 
just make sure you pick a good spot to do it in, like a garage, run poly plastic all the way around and run an exhuast fan or respirator too, but when you are ready to paint after the sanding, spray the floor and walls (of poly) with water then use an air wand to blow all the sanding dust off the jeep. the dampness will catch all the dust rather than settling on the heep.
 
just do a 220 grit sand to level everything and when you spray use your finger tip. if your finger gets in the way even a very little it will splotch the paint. if you are still unhappy with the finish sand it again and repaint. you should only have to paint it like 1-3 coats.
 
I painted mine multiple times now with Krylon paint from Walmart for $3/can. When I did yellow oveer blue it took 16 cans the first time. I redid the yellow a year later with around 5 cans & went to black with around 8 can total. I just pressurewashed & sanded/grinded rust as best as I could. It looks great & touches up easily after scratchy trails. I really like the shine that Krylon fusion has compared to Krylon satin & it sticks to everything (including chrome & plastic) better.

It takes a LOT of light coats, just work around your jeep in a circle; by the time you get back to where you started it should be dry enough for another coat, it takes a few hrs to complete.

Be sure to mask/remove any plastic or head/taillights that you dont want painted, otherwise just paint it all including the windows & scrape the windows with a flat razor blade.

Here's pics:
wholejeep.jpg

DSC06413.jpg

painting-sm.jpg

passside.jpg
 
swany said:
just do a 220 grit sand to level everything and when you spray use your finger tip. if your finger gets in the way even a very little it will splotch the paint. if you are still unhappy with the finish sand it again and repaint. you should only have to paint it like 1-3 coats.
Click to expand...

or pick up the clip on plastic handle that goes on cans with a trigger that pushes down on the nozzle for you, more comfortable too for a long paint job like that.
 
X2 on the clip on handle it makes it a lot easyer.

go slow and leave light coats to layer your coverage. all in all it will take 3 or 4 coats and unless you totally miss a spot you will have a decent paint job.

get a few extra cans from the same batch for touch ups later on
 
jfiscus said:
I painted mine multiple times now with Krylon paint from Walmart for $3/can.
Click to expand...

Didn't you have any trouble with the krylon paint reacting with the automotive paint? I tried to paint a chevy fender that way a long time ago, and there was a strange chemical reaction between the two types of paint. It bubbled and wrinkled up completely. Had to sand it all off and start over.
 
yea, when my buddy herc'd his yj, he didnt sand the body down, and the herc kinda melted the paint... brought it right down to bare metal.

do you need to sand the whole thing to metal before painting, or just prime??
 
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