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DOM tubing (?)

O

Oatmeal

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cedar City, UT
I'm looking into building a set of lower control arms using either Johnny Joints or Balistic Fab's flex joint with 1 1/4" X 12 threaded shanks and 1 3/4" OD heavy wall DOM tubing....I know it's probably overkill. Now, instead of using weld in tube adapters, I would rather tap the bore of the tube but, it would require a .281" wall to do so. The only tubing I have been able to find has a wall thickness of .250". I know that Teraflex has tubing available pre-tapped in modular lengths with right and left hand threads on opposite ends and they state that their tubing is 1.75"OD X .281" wall. Is there such a tube (and where can I get some?) or are theirs perhaps, heavier wall (or solid) drilled and tapped to those dimensions :dunno: Thanks for any light you could shed on this. P.S.... I would give them a call but, it's been my experience that alot of companies are reluctant to give out info of that sort---------Hans
 
why make them adjustable? especially on a lower control arm where you are liable to drag the arm across something anyhow, and chinger the threads...

measure 3 times, and burn it home...

or buy some tube adapters, or have some made for the 1.25" threaded shanks...
 
Or use RE joints,they already have 1-1/4" female ends on them!
324.jpg
 
XJ_ranger said:
why make them adjustable? especially on a lower control arm where you are liable to drag the arm across something anyhow, and chinger the threads...

measure 3 times, and burn it home...

or buy some tube adapters, or have some made for the 1.25" threaded shanks...
Click to expand...
Because, that is how I want to build them and it would give me the ability to move the axle forward slightly if I need to.
RCP Phx said:
Or use RE joints,they already have 1-1/4" female ends on them!
324.jpg
Click to expand...
Yeah, I considered those but, I like the idea of a male end which would put the threads closer to the mount and, in my opinion, would make it stronger by putting less leverage on the threads and.......I'm stubborn:) So, is there such tube?-------Hans
 
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Find some 3/8 wall and open up the id.
 
Oatmeal said:
I'm looking into building a set of lower control arms using either Johnny Joints or Balistic Fab's flex joint with 1 1/4" X 12 threaded shanks and 1 3/4" OD heavy wall DOM tubing....I know it's probably overkill. Now, instead of using weld in tube adapters, I would rather tap the bore of the tube but, it would require a .281" wall to do so. The only tubing I have been able to find has a wall thickness of .250". I know that Teraflex has tubing available pre-tapped in modular lengths with right and left hand threads on opposite ends and they state that their tubing is 1.75"OD X .281" wall. Is there such a tube (and where can I get some?) or are theirs perhaps, heavier wall (or solid) drilled and tapped to those dimensions :dunno: Thanks for any light you could shed on this. P.S.... I would give them a call but, it's been my experience that alot of companies are reluctant to give out info of that sort---------Hans
Click to expand...

I don't think 1.75" .250 wall tubing is overkill for LCA's, in fact I think it's not enough. Check out Poly Performance, they sell both DOM tubing and weld in threaded tube adapters for that size thread. They also sell heat treated chromemoly tubing for lower control arms, which is what I use. They also have .281 wall tube, which is what I use on my steering links, but they may not have it in the larger size that you need. One nice thing about using Poly Performance is that they sell tubing by the foot, so you can get just as much as you need.
 
Well, that size tubing seems to be quite elusive (tried Poly Performance's and Ballistic Fab's site as well as the link provided by Can Man....thanks guys!) but, I have come across some 1 1/2" X .375" wall DOM at IMS for $1.08 lb. I think that'll work out fine but, have you priced taps in that size (yikes!) Anybody have any idea what a machine shop might charge to bore and tap two ends?------------Hans
 
Oatmeal said:
Well, that size tubing seems to be quite elusive (tried Poly Performance's and Ballistic Fab's site as well as the link provided by Can Man....thanks guys!) but, I have come across some 1 1/2" X .375" wall DOM at IMS for $1.08 lb. I think that'll work out fine but, have you priced taps in that size (yikes!) Anybody have any idea what a machine shop might charge to bore and tap two ends?------------Hans
Click to expand...
About the same price as the tap(per hole).What are you going to do about clearance for the shock mounts?
BTW:how much lift are we talking about?
 
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RCP Phx said:
About the same price as the tap(per hole).What are you going to do about clearance for the shock mounts?
BTW:how much lift are we talking about?
Click to expand...
The axle end joints will be welded on an offset to clear the lower shock mounts. 4 1/2"-5" with drop brackets. You really think they'd charge that much? I'll have to get a hold of a machinist buddy at my old job to see if he can do it for me--------Hans
 
RCP Phx said:
About the same price as the tap(per hole)........
Click to expand...
Well, I lucked out......found a fab shop about a mile from where I live and he said he'd do it for about $40 for the pair! The price of the tap and proper sized drill bit would have been over $100 (yikes!) and the welder at work has been tigging for over 30 yrs..... I should be able to build my uppers and lowers (a lot beefier than what you could buy) for under $200:) I can't wait to get started-----------Hans
 
I've been reconsidering using the 1 1/4" shank JJs and going with the 1" versions, so as to preserve more wall thickness at the threads. Should still be plenty strong, don't you think? Currie uses 1 1/4" "heavy wall" tubing (to me that means at least 1/4") for their arm so, that means their joints are using what, 1" or 3/4" shanks:dunno: Opinions?. This is going to be a drop bracketed short arm setup on 33s max.......The Mrs drives it everyday so, I can't get too crazy! ---------Hans
 
Just do the RE joints,I like them alot better anyway.Then you dont have to do any machining just welding.The RE joints also have more thread length adjustability.
 
RCP Phx said:
Just do the RE joints,I like them alot better anyway.Then you dont have to do any machining just welding.The RE joints also have more thread length adjustability.
Click to expand...
I'm glad you like the RE flex joints but, they're not what I want to use. I like the forged one piece housings, with male ends of the JJs, if RE made them that way I woud definitely use theirs same with Balistic Fab.....I would just rather have a joint that dosen't have the threads (male or female) welded on. Other opinions, more related to my question?----------Hans
 
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