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Electrical Help!

G

G5ClassifiedSecret

NAXJA Forum User
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Secret Squirrel
Ok everyone, here's the deal. I purchased a 1990 XJ Laredo about 2 weeks ago. Everything electrical was working fine on it when I bought it, now 2 weeks later I have a problem. About a week ago, I noticed that when I run the A/C the blinkers slowed down a little bit. So I stopped using the A/C. I changed the battery and the ground and had the alternator check and all of those things are fine. So today I'm driving down the road with the A/C on and the turn signals stopped working like usual and shortly thereafter the radio kept turning on and off. Shortly after that the A/C turned off completely. Now nothing comes on, but the windows roll up and down, the headlights, tail lights and brake lights all work. I think I've checked every fuse there is. Anyone have any ideas?

Anyone had problems like this before?

Could it be a relay? If so, which one?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
I'm thinking you have a grounding problem.
Check your grounds at the battery to block and block to firewall connections to assure they are good.
 
B.RAIDER said:
I'm thinking you have a grounding problem.
Check your grounds at the battery to block and block to firewall connections to assure they are good.
Click to expand...

It's definitely not the ground. I picked up a new ground just the other day. All the windows roll up and down and the headlights work, so I definitely don't think that's it, but then again I know nothing. Any other ideas?
 
Check and clean your chassis grounds, especially the one on the firewall. It won't go amiss to add one from the battery directly to the chassis, either.

Start your engine, turn your aircon on, and check your voltage at the battery with a DMM. You mentioned that the turn indicators were slowing down, which tells me that there was a reduction in voltage - you should see a minimum of 13.0VDC at the battery with the engine running, idling at 1100-1200rpm or higher (you will have to hold the high idle.)

My first thought is that your alternator is going south on you.
 
Been there done that, it is the ignition switch and wiring at the ignition switch that is going bad. There are some good threads in this forum on replacing the ignition switch. Some of us also had to repair the wiring connection at the switch as well. It is under the dash on top of the steering column. There is a single hot wire running from the ignition switch that all those devices are using that are giving you the problems. I Got tired of replacing mine every 6 months and ran a seperate hot fused wire to a 30 amp dash switch and bypassed the ignition switch for those items. I also used 10 gauge wire instead of the 12/14 gauge wires they used.
 
Ecomike said:
Been there done that, it is the ignition switch and wiring at the ignition switch that is going bad. There are some good threads in this forum on replacing the ignition switch. Some of us also had to repair the wiring connection at the switch as well. It is under the dash on top of the steering column. There is a single hot wire running from the ignition switch that all those devices are using that are giving you the problems. I Got tired of replacing mine every 6 months and ran a seperate hot fused wire to a 30 amp dash switch and bypassed the ignition switch for those items. I also used 10 gauge wire instead of the 12/14 gauge wires they used.
Click to expand...

Hm - that makes sense as well. Just hadn't run into that myself (the ignition switch I had going bad was a burned START circuit. Easy fix - break the wire and do a momentary rocker somewhere. Still there - even though I've replaced the switch (the RUN circuit also burned out.))
 
Ecomike said:
Been there done that, it is the ignition switch and wiring at the ignition switch that is going bad. There are some good threads in this forum on replacing the ignition switch. Some of us also had to repair the wiring connection at the switch as well. It is under the dash on top of the steering column. There is a single hot wire running from the ignition switch that all those devices are using that are giving you the problems. I Got tired of replacing mine every 6 months and ran a seperate hot fused wire to a 30 amp dash switch and bypassed the ignition switch for those items. I also used 10 gauge wire instead of the 12/14 gauge wires they used.
Click to expand...

Would that still allow my windows to roll up and down though?
 
The ignition switch is actually six switches in one. Switches six sub systems. The yellow, orange, dark green and brown wires are the major sub systems.
The cigar lighter, wipers, A/C and directional signals are one sub system and the horn I think. If all four are out it's likely the ignition switch, brown wire out.
 
8Mud said:
The ignition switch is actually six switches in one. Switches six sub systems. The yellow, orange, dark green and brown wires are the major sub systems.
The cigar lighter, wipers, A/C and directional signals are one sub system and the horn I think. If all four are out it's likely the ignition switch, brown wire out.
Click to expand...

Yep... The wipers, A/C, and signals are out, so I'm going to go out on a limb here and say the cigarette lighter is out too.
 
G5ClassifiedSecret said:
Would that still allow my windows to roll up and down though?
Click to expand...

Yes, power windows are on a different part of the ignition switch and wires. The radio, AC and AC blower, and turn signals are on the same part of the ignition switch and same wire, before the fuse box. Just look for the burned and corroded wires and the burned out spot on the igntion switch. The switch is about $20.
 
8Mud said:
The ignition switch is actually six switches in one. Switches six sub systems. The yellow, orange, dark green and brown wires are the major sub systems.
The cigar lighter, wipers, A/C and directional signals are one sub system and the horn I think. If all four are out it's likely the ignition switch, brown wire out.
Click to expand...

I forgot the wipers are on it too. Definately the brown wire. In my opinion they put too much load on that one sub system with too small a wire size, and not enough switch ampacity. It pulls a lot of current with the AC blower on max, AC clutch cycling, wipers and turn signals flashing, radio on full power, and when everything cycles it gets up to good 40 amp surge IMHO each time the turn signals flash.

8mud, I thought it was a cigarette lighter, LOL!
 
Ecomike said:
I forgot the wipers are on it too. Definately the brown wire. In my opinion they put too much load on that one sub system with too small a wire size, and not enough switch ampacity. It pulls a lot of current with the AC blower on max, AC clutch cycling, wipers and turn signals flashing, radio on full power, and when everything cycles it gets up to good 40 amp surge IMHO each time the turn signals flash.

8mud, I thought it was a cigarette lighter, LOL!
Click to expand...

I do listen, I bypassed (rerouted) the blower circuit on mine like you recommended, hoping to save the ignition switch. Just one of a few extra relays I have hidden under the dash. Bypassed the power window ignition circuit also and tied them in with the power seats (always hot).

I always forget how to spell cigarrettee. :)
 
Ecomike said:
Been there done that, it is the ignition switch and wiring at the ignition switch that is going bad. There are some good threads in this forum on replacing the ignition switch. Some of us also had to repair the wiring connection at the switch as well. It is under the dash on top of the steering column. There is a single hot wire running from the ignition switch that all those devices are using that are giving you the problems. I Got tired of replacing mine every 6 months and ran a seperate hot fused wire to a 30 amp dash switch and bypassed the ignition switch for those items. I also used 10 gauge wire instead of the 12/14 gauge wires they used.
Click to expand...

Do I need to pull the steering column or is it up under the dash?
 
G5ClassifiedSecret said:
Do I need to pull the steering column or is it up under the dash?
Click to expand...
It is a real tight squeeze, but it is possible to change the ignition switch with out moving the steering column. FSM says to drop (not pull) the steering column for access, but dropping it is more work, and I am lazzy!;)

You do want to pull the lower dash plate off IIRC, and it is easier to get to if you pull the seat (I did not). The switch is on top of the lower column above the brake and gas peddles. Helps to stand on your head and be a contortionist!

8mud,

sounds like you got farther than I did, I still need to add relays for mine, including the head lights. My Roundtoit list keeps growing, but it keeps me out of trouble, most of the time, LOL.
 
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