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Need for an SYE??

B

benulis55

NAXJA Forum User
Location
pottsville, pa


I’m going to run a RE 4.5” lift with a rear Xj dana 44. Do I need a SYE or a CV driveshaft, it’s a 1996. If I am going to have really bad vibes Ill throw a SYE in there

What about SYE and no CV drive shaft??? Trying to save money that’s all
 
if you do an SYE you have to run a CV driveshaft. You have to have some slip somewhere....

In 1996, they changed the TC output shaft design, and the 96+ ones are more prone to vibrations.

Do some searching for a front driveshaft + SYE. You can get a front CV driveshaft from an XJ or ZJ and it will bolt up in the rear after doing your SYE.
 
On the same note, I have a manual 96 xj with 5" lift. Does anyone know if it matters if the front driveshaft is out of a manual or auto for use in the rear???
 
JNickel101 said:
if you do an SYE you have to run a CV driveshaft. You have to have some slip somewhere....
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Thats incorrect. You need to have a driveshaft with a slipjoint in it, it has nothing to do with CV. My ford has no slip yoke and no CV, and I've worked on other rigs that had a CV on the back of a slip yoke.
 
pjsmith27 said:
On the same note, I have a manual 96 xj with 5" lift. Does anyone know if it matters if the front driveshaft is out of a manual or auto for use in the rear???
Click to expand...


You don't want to use a front driveshaft in the rear as more than a spare or to get you by until you can order a real driveshaft. The splined sections are very small and already fairly worn from years of use. The shaft might work initially but its going to vibe pretty quick.

Pony up for a good shaft.
 
Dont buy a sye untill after the jeep is lifted and has settled. Then and only then if you have vibrations, then go w a SYE.
My 99 xj had horrible virations at 6.5" of lift, my buddies 97 xj is at 8" no shims no t-case drop and no vibs untill 80+mph. Each individual jeep is going to be different. My vote is always wait untill you have everything else figured out and settled, then buy one if needed. Why waste your money.
 
cal said:
You don't want to use a front driveshaft in the rear as more than a spare or to get you by until you can order a real driveshaft. The splined sections are very small and already fairly worn from years of use. The shaft might work initially but its going to vibe pretty quick.

Pony up for a good shaft.
Click to expand...

There are many here that run front shafts in the rear & have never had a problem.
 
garr said:
There are many here that run front shafts in the rear & have never had a problem.
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And there are many that have. ;) My advice stands. YMMV.
 
cal said:
And there are many that have. ;) My advice stands. YMMV.
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If you're worried about the overall diameter of the front driveshaft I wouldn't wory. The shaft will stand up to much more than any of the u-joints, The front & rear both use the same 1310 U-Joints. breaking a shaft is very rare, usually the u-joints that go first.

Once in a while the front shaft centering ball goes, But this is caused by lack of maintainence, I try to disassemble & lube up the centering ball ever 50-60K miles on every jeep I have owned, Not a bad idea to inspect And/or replace the U Joints at the same time (I have one apart right now).
 
No, I'm talking about the tiny splined slip joint on the front shaft. It can't be more than what, 1 1/8"?

It didnt even hold up on the front of my rig. When you lift 5-6" the splines are barely engaged and wear quickly. Even on the front of my rig I had to replace it before the jeep hit 80,000 miles. I wore through two more front shafts before I finally put a tom woods up there.
 
You're right, when lifted that high you do need longer shafts front & rear. I dont think the size of the splined shaft hurt you, But the lack of engagement because the shaft is too short for your rig. You should have tried a Grand Cherokee front shaft first, They are longer than the XJ front Shafts, And a little beefer too!
This is Great info being passed along in this thread.
 
garr said:
You're right, when lifted that high you do need longer shafts front & rear. I dont think the size of the splined shaft hurt you, But the lack of engagement because the shaft is too short for your rig. You should have tried a Grand Cherokee front shaft first, They are longer than the XJ front Shafts, And a little beefer too!
This is Great info being passed along in this thread.
Click to expand...


The difference in engagement at 4.5" (like the original poster) and 5-6" is less than a quarter inch.

If its too short at that height, its too short for his. ;)

I looked at both ZJ and WJ shafts, but I decided I was tired of messing around with cheap OEM crap. Tom woods gives enough discounts to the Naxja membership that I couldn't say no to him anymore. :)
 
I think I paid around $240 shipped? 3/16 wall with a spicer CV, 5" slipjoint. I paid a little more for a new rear shaft from JE Reel, but he's a local and sponsored Goatmans KOH buggy, so I felt a need to give him some business.
 
cal said:
I think I paid around $240 shipped? 3/16 wall with a spicer CV, 5" slipjoint. I paid a little more for a new rear shaft from JE Reel, but he's a local and sponsored Goatmans KOH buggy, so I felt a need to give him some business.
Click to expand...

Thanks! The Local guys here in NY (Long Island) are super high priced on everything, So I am forced to mail order most stuff..
 
garr said:
Thanks! The Local guys here in NY (Long Island) are super high priced on everything, So I am forced to mail order most stuff..
Click to expand...

If you watch the Naxja newsletter, Tom Woods periodically throws in gift certificates for $50 or $100 off.
 
If you want to get technical, you want a driveshaft with a double cardan joint, not a cv joint.

you want that type of driveshaft b/c when you lift, your driveshaft angles get more severe. I know you know what you're talking about Cal, and I know I do as well. I stated you have to have slip somewhere, meaning in the driveshaft itself. not trying to be a dick or anything :D

I've never seen an XJ with a SYE and a non-dc, yet slip-jointed, driveshaft. cant imagine you could lift it very much without some serious binding.

Yes, ideally you want a nice TW driveshaft, but he said he was trying to save money. I know I'll get a nice TW ds when I get home, but thats just b/c I've been able to save lots of $$$. :D
 
Oh, I know you aren't trying to be a dick - i was just in a mood to split hairs. :)

I wouldn't say there are a *lot* of non CV, sye'd xj's out there - but I know of at least one, and he's running the equiv of about 7 inches of lift on a hi 9, but its trailer only.
 
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