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ring gear bolts fall out?!?!

P

proskier101

NAXJA Forum User
Location
the vag sander.
while driving anyone ever hear of this...

i heard a hugh CLUNK in my rear axle and aparently ALL then ring gear bolts have made their way loose...i could only find 3 bolts on the inside with LOTS of bits of metal(maybe once were the other bolts)..but this thing only has like 1500 miles on the rear axle and now i think the pinion is trashed...
 
Ive seen it before,shoot your installer!!!
 
Yeah, the same thing thing happened to my 10.25 in my work truck, instant destruction of all the important stuff. Hopefully you can salvage some parts, keep the parts very clean, no oil, use red Locktite, proper torque.
 
Pretty much!It could have been caused by several reasons,but these should all have been addressed by the installer.Even if it was a bad set of gears,this would show up during set-up.Ive seen people cheap-out and re-use carrier bolts,bad idea!
 
RCP Phx said:
Pretty much!It could have been caused by several reasons,but these should all have been addressed by the installer.Even if it was a bad set of gears,this would show up during set-up.Ive seen people cheap-out and re-use carrier bolts,bad idea!
Click to expand...

mine came with all new carrier bolts...is it common for installers to use loctite on the carrier nuts?
 
Its a MUST.But they have to be perfectly clean dry threads.I always use my old bolts to set(align,not pull) the ring gear then pull them 1 at a time and then loctite and torque the NEW bolt.
 
Last edited:
I would run it, if its not any more noisy I would keep running it.

This happened on my Barracuda years ago. I had just hammered down on the gas and when I was coasting down it started clunking then when I stopped it tried to lock up. Obviously I had broken the ring and pinion. I got it unlocked and slowly drove it home(1 mile). When I tore it down I discovered the ring missing a few teeth and ALL THE DAMN BOLTS but two. The rest were mangled pieces in the housing or broken off in the gear. Funny thing was the week before when I was heading to the drags I thought I backed into something. It felt and sounded just like I backed into a car or something big. Got out, and nothing at all very strange..but didn't keep my from racing lol. I am assuming it was trying to eat a bolt when that happened.
 
This is a very common problem with jeeps and lately it seems with detroit lockers. The ring gear bolts are supposed to have red loctite on them and frequently do not. :(
 
well its now going to get fixed the guy that put it in is going to take a look at it :thumbup:

but damn this was weird..and we he did use loctite but not the red stuff since he says it is almost impossible if you want to get the bolt out....now we will use the red stuff...lol
 
Its not nearly "almost impossible". :) Light application of heat and heavy application of elbow grease.

I should buy stock in whoever owns loctite. I buy the no mess loctite sticks and go through 7 to 10 of them a year.
 
cal said:
Its not nearly "almost impossible". :) Light application of heat and heavy application of elbow grease.

I should buy stock in whoever owns loctite. I buy the no mess loctite sticks and go through 7 to 10 of them a year.
Click to expand...

so unless we have a torch we better hope we dont break on the trail..i would imagine a lighter would take awhile to heat up...
 
A simple mapp gas torch used to sweat pipes will get the parts hot enough to "melt" the locktite in the threads. At work we just use a quick hit from the oxy-acetylene torches, but at home I just grap the mapp gas. Locktite sure is some great stuff, but as everybody above has said, the threads MUST be clean and dry to make sure the stuff is allowed to cure properly.

Is it possible that a few of the threads in the ring gear were not drilled and taped far enough? maybe 1/16th of a thread too shallow. The bolt would not be actually be holding the ring grear properly. Once the set is runing down the road it will start to vibrate a little bit causeing more friction and as a result: more heat. The heat could weaken the locktite in the bolts causing them to wiggle out and jump around inside the pumpkin?
Just thinkin out loud.

~Alex
 
Hmmm... this worries me since I installed an Aussie locker in my D30 a couple of months ago. I referenced the FSM and the intructions that came with the Aussie locker, and both had no mention of using Loctite.

I used blue Loctite from my own decision thinking it would be a good place for it, and wanted to eventually regear to 4.56, thinking I would need to get those bolts off evenually.

I noticed that there was no threadlocker at all from the factory.

Should I open the diff cover and re-do the bolts with red Loctite?
 
This happens A LOT with detroit lockers.

It happened to me on my 8.8 rear end that was set up properly. You can get the bolts out with red loctite just use an impact gun to take them out.

Anywho some folks lock-wire the bolts on. I just used a mig welder and put a tiny tack weld on each bolt to hold it to the carrier.
 
loctite is important but even torque on all the bolts is just as important i go over all bolts three times at 90 ft/lbs ensuring even torque and ive never had an issue
 
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