Pich seam & rock rails???

I'm building my own rock rails this weekend. My question is...What are the benefits of tying the rails into/with the pinch seam (if any)? Here is a link to the plans I found online. All the materials run $170.

http://www.jeepcorner.com/~karlsxj/rrdraw.htmt

Also...should I use self tapping bolts for the brackets to the frame, or drill so a bolt goes all the way through the frame, and washer and nut to hold in place?

Any info/suggestions/ideas are appreciated. I'm picking up metal tomorrow. Rails will be 2 x 4 3/16 wall.

Thanks

The point of bolting to the pinch seam is for strength. It is mainly what takes the force of a hit on the rock rails. Its really simple to do.


oh ya I forgot, Just use self atpping bolts to go into the sub frame, as I said earlier, the pinch seam takes most of the force of a hit so the brackets on the sub frame arn't that important.


Keil

oh ya I forgot, Just use self atpping bolts to go into the sub frame, as I said earlier, the pinch seam takes most of the force of a hit so the brackets on the sub frame arn't that important.

do just drill through the angle rail and pich seam then bolt and nut?

MIXEDBREED said:

do just drill through the angle rail and pich seam then bolt and nut?

Click to expand...

yes

I used 1" square box for my pinch seam tie in point. I put in on the outside of the pinch seam and held it up tight against the body with the force of a jack lifting the body slightly. Then I marked the box for holes that would be high enought to go through the middle of the pinch seam. Then I drilled 10 holes into the box off of the jeep, then re-jacked it up to the body. Then I marked through the holes onto the pinch seam. Then I removed the box again and drilled my holes in the pinch seam. Then I rejacked the box up tight again and tried all of the bolts to make sure they all lined up. The few that don't I just ran the drill through the box and into the pinch seam to even the hole up.
Once that done, you can fab up the rest, tack weld it all, remove the 3-4 bolts in the pinch seam, weld up completely, then re-bolt it on with all 10 bolts. Mine is sturdy as crap.

Sweet..I'll take progress pics and post a new thread when done!

Here is how I made my rock rails. Use 1" angle iron or square tube (not .5 as noted in the drawing). Attaching to the pinch seam spreads out the forces of a hit and prevents the leg mounts from being the pivot point when you drop onto a rock. Having legs only allows the legs to pivot and drive up into the rocker panel and door bottoms.

.

.

forget self tappers, all they will do is egg out and rip off eventuly...sorry i cant spell or the bolts will shear off . just find someone to weld em on. thats the best bet.

You don't want rock rails welded on so if the day comes to replace them they can be removed. Best thing to do would be to drill holes through the frame and weld in crush sleeves then have full length bolt through.

xj_toker said:

forget self tappers, all they will do is egg out and rip off eventuly...

Click to expand...

Most of the store bought rock rails use self tappers.

My rails been on two week long trips to Moab UT and another week in Ouray CO. Still holding tight.

Tim_MN said:

Most of the store bought rock rails use self tappers.

My rails been on two week long trips to Moab UT and another week in Ouray CO. Still holding tight.

Click to expand...

X2 mine r on for 3 years with self tappers. 3/8" I used 4 on each plate and I have three plates on each side. 24 bolts in all. Still tight and strong. I used 3/4" suare tube bolted to the P seam works great I've hit them real hard a bunch and no damadge. But I did put a small dent in the guard itself 2x2 3/16" wall
:rattle: