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Clicking in front axle or....

Jim 88 XJ

NAXJA Forum User
1988 XJ 4.0 100% stock. I searched but did not find a solid answer like I normally do so I have to ask.....

While driving I hear clicking and feel resistance from the front drive train. (I have the Dana 30 stock diff).

If you raise the front end up and spin the wheels the front drivetrain clicks, sounds like the diff.. If you put the transfer case in neutral and spin the tires, no sound at all. Front end is good and tight, no play anywhere. So the question is, is the clicking the front drive shaft or the diff, 165k on the heep, just bougt it and have only put 1K on it.

I do not understand why when the transfer case is in neutral and no clicking noise when you spin the front tires, and yes I am sure the noise is not the transfer case.

Second question.... if the pinion gear and other gear is trashed, I want to put a front locker on. Any recommendation on the brand, and should I convert to a non-disco set-up?:wierd: Not sure if I worded that correctly but I think you get the idea.
 
I'd guess you'll find spider gears are boogered up in there-- maybe less resistance to turning un neutral=less noise

you're on your own for a locker, but I know there's a bunch of info here on them
 
could possibly be a ujoint in the front drive shaft. but the spider gears are a good place to look as well. as far as gears go i have always used yukon gears and i have not grenaded any yet. i would get a selectable locker for the front axle so you can disengage it for tight turns and better on road driving.
 
I'm going to work on it today and I will let you know what I find. I may have to open the diff, when I put it back together does it need a gasket? or can I just use sealant? or both?
 
Just went through this and hopefully I'll be able to save you the same agony. Mine turned out to be the caliper. when you notice the noise press on the brake and see if it goes away.
 
ok, I worked on it today and had good results, I think. The disco was engaged, looks like the vacuum pulled it into engaging the last time I drove it. I pulled the vacuum line and it allowed the disco to dis-engage. Not sure what caused it, i do remember the 4x4 light flickered a few times on the way home last time I drove it, luckly just down the street from my house.. So, now what, this is my DD and I sure don't want this to happen at 65 mph. I assume it is vacuum related, but I never had a 4x4 system with a vacuum, kinda sucks. I will probably pull the vacuum lines and bag and tie them off until I can TS this problem. I will not need 4x4 until May, fishing season on the coast for me. I'll do a search on this issue since I'm sure there is a thread out there. If you knowof one please let me know.
 
I don't know of one directly relating to your issue, but if you search on doing away with the vacuum disconnect I think you'll get a better understanding on how the system works. Also, it might point you at what "might" be the cause. A loose wire, hose, switch in the 4wd system possibly...

I'm not familiar enough yet with the Dana 30 vacuum system to give solid advice. I just went through a simlar problem on my DD S10 blazer though--also with vacuum engage front diff. It was easy enough to attach a manual cable to that sytem that I did away with the vacuum altogether (and didn't use the posi-lock diff kit).
 
I intend to add a cable set-up and just do away with the vacuum. I Kinda like that mechanical concept versus the vacuum. I too had a S-10 with a vacuum front diff back in 87'. It was really cool when the vacuum system failed on me on a super steep climb at 10,000 in the mountains of Colorado. Thank god we had a 81' CJ-7 with us to help out.

I need to find the link to the cable mod and order the parts.
 
Here you go:
Posi-Lok: http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

Homebrew: http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/jeep/tech/cabledis.htm

I did mine a little different. After removing the vacuum motor, I replaced the shift fork rod with a piece of all-thread that was the same diameter. I cut the all-thread off at about 1" past where the vacuum motor attached to the rod. I then attached the shift fork onto the all-thread in the "engaged" position. A couple of nuts and lock washers later, I was back on the trail. No vacuum motor, no vacuum hassle. Cheap solution.

Just my $.02
 
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