• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Because I can...

Hypoid

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Golden, CO
Did you ever get some silly idea that you just couldn't let go? You wind up doing it just to get it off your brain???

OOPS!
oilpan001.jpg


oilpan002.jpg


oilpan003.jpg


oilpan004.jpg


oilpan005.jpg


oilpan006.jpg


oilpan007.jpg


oilpan008.jpg


oilpan009.jpg


Hopefully I'll be able to get some sleep now. Thanks for looking!
 
Good Idea. But it is about as easy to add some volumn to it at the same time and that would also keep oil temps down too. But a good idea. Nitie-nite now.
 
I changed my mind, found a tag of square tube to replace the angle.
oilpan011.jpg


I like this much better. I'm hoping that diamond plate will hold to the floor jack nicely while I change motor mounts.

oilpan010.jpg
 
rockshox said:
but are the sides of the pan strong enough to not collapse?

Yes, most people use a block of wood between the jack & the oil pan. That skid will work just fine. JIM.
 
:rof: So if I drive up there will you make one for mine?
 
DaJudge said:
:rof: So if I drive up there will you make one for mine?
I dunno Glenn. Maybe I'll mail out the template so you can stimulate your local economy.

My attempts to seal the pan failed miserably. Every time I heated the steel enough to hold a good braze, the steel cracked, the cracks ran like crazy on the driver's side. I mic'd a thick section, checked a chart, 18 gauge in the thick sections. The problem areas had compound bends, making them even thinner.

After a week of frustration, I sourced another pan and would have called that good. Then YELLAHEEP made the comment about a well placed rock being able to screw up a good day: My motivation was re-kindled.

This time around, I assembled the skid seperate from the pan. I drilled holes through the first layer, then used a larger bit to make crude divots on the holes. The second layer covered the divots and covered more of the notch in the first layer. I used JB-Weld to attach the skid to the pan. I mixed up the whole package and smooshed the JB through the holes where it could mushroom out between the layers of steel.

I use the term skid very loosely. It's only reason for existance is to keep the oil in the pan should that well placed rock strand the heep again.

Ready to glue on:

oilpan012.jpg


Ready to install:

oilpan013.jpg


Front view installed:

oilpan014.jpg


Side view installed:

oilpan015.jpg


I'd like to thank everyone for the kind words, not exactly what I was expecting when I first posted. LOL
 
Now thats just plain cool....I like it!

How's the clearance on the drivers side, where the head pipe comes down?
 
I like the detail around the drain plug - but the thought occurs: Would it not have been good to have a sort of "ramp" on the front, so you could slide over something (instead of peeling off your pan?) I'd see if it couldn't be done as a piece with the body of the pan. Have the whole thing as a single piece - or close to it - and that would eliminate some other hanging points (the welds.)

What say you?
 
great idea.... and something i hadn't considered what about plating the sides for anti-crumble strength? or is it really not necessary? also is it possible to take the pan off from the bottom?
 
If you have a rock up in there far enough to peel that away you have other issues. ;)

I did something similar for my new engine...
standard.jpg

standard.jpg
 
Jes said:
If you have a rock up in there far enough to peel that away you have other issues. ;)

I did something similar for my new engine...

standard.jpg
Looks good Jes! A single layer with stitch welds, you should be OK with that. The Scallops were my bane, they stretched that area on two different axis. Definitely do a leak test before you re-install.

asp387, the sides are pretty much a non-issue. As stated earlier, they support the weight of the engine when you change mounts...sometimes a little more before you stop jacking. :rolleyes:

To remove a stock pan is kind of involved. You have to undo enough stuff to let the front axle droop for clearance. As a matter of fact, if you undo four control arm bolts, two brake calipers, one drive shaft, you can have the axle completely out. Search "Rear main seal" or "Oil pan removal" to see what is involved. After dropping the stock pan, I did use a jack between the axle and frame to clear the added thickness when I re-installed.

The work involved was another reason to try the JB-Weld idea. If you have no other reason to drop the oil pan, this might be a worth-while approach.

JNickel101, the clearance is fine. I made it to not extend past the side of the pan.

Starboard M, LMAO!!! but not...lol. It seems I have read about aftermarket engine skids and belly pans somewhere on this wonderful site. I'm cheap, I spent maybe $5 on brazing rod for the failed attempt, $6 on JB-Weld for the current idea. I dumpster dive for steel, so that's cheap enough.

This Jeep belongs to a single Mom, who was teaching her teenage son some snow driving. They were putzing around some dirt roads above 9000' when she slid into a ditch. They had just passed a residence so they were in luck. She said the heep was hard to pull out, probably hung on that rock with the front axle further down in the ditch.

What inspired me was how lucky they were to be on a well travelled road, within walking distance of help, with the only carnage displayed in first picture. Change any two of the three variables listed and you have a more urgent situation. In the high country, during the winter, survival might be as simple as turning on the heater...if the engine still runs.

BTW, Now she's all pumped about going on a trail run. LMAO
 
Last edited:
Back
Top