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Damn rust.....

X

x6xdemonx6x

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Republic, mo
Pulled the rear carpet from xj today to prep it for bedliner and found this. Any ideas on how to fix it without a welder or decent cut off tool. Dont know how to post pics so sorry for the link but they are all there. http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh290/x6xdemonx6x/Rust%203-16-08/ Any advice and pics are wellcome and if anyone is in the springfield mo area and would like to help i'm all for it and will provide the beer :D
 
Pop rivets, heavy aluminum (like the kind they use for road signs...) and roofing cement. I had a 1963 chevy back in the 80's that I bought for $125, had Flintstone holes in the floor. A couple road signs, a box of pop rivets and a half gallon of roof cement later I was ready to go, almost as good as new!

Mark
 
thats pretty bad... if you have that much you should really be looking very closely for more in other areas... with this much rust damage (and more importantly the possibility of more) i dont think u can get away with it without replacement metal properly welded in... to solve a rust problem like that you'll need to be able to cut it all out... but if you were able to do that and all you needed to fix was that hole then you could use rivets on a new piece of sheet metal (but I wouldnt recommend it with the looks of the rest of the floor) either way i think you can forget about that bed liner for a while :S someone near you should be able to give you a hand at the welding if you find rust in worse areas...
 
Rokee44 said:
:shocked: thats pretty bad... if you have that much you should really be looking very closely for more in other areas... with this much rust damage (and more importantly the possibility of more) i dont think u can get away with it without replacement metal properly welded in... to solve a rust problem like that you'll need to be able to cut it all out... but if you were able to do that and all you needed to fix was that hole then you could use rivets on a new piece of sheet metal (but I wouldnt recommend it with the looks of the rest of the floor) either way i think you can forget about that bed liner for a while :S someone near you should be able to give you a hand at the welding...
Click to expand...
corners of both quarters are shot the rocker on one side is completely rotted and the other is on its way there is also a small rott through hole on the drivers floor pan visible from under it.
 
the passenger side of the cargo floor is ok all surface rust almost like if you made a line down the center half is bad half is good most of it is next to wheel where the quarter is completely gone in the corner on that side.
 
For cutting out the rust, you can go to a tool rental place and rent yourself sheet metal nibblers. Or if you live close to a Harbor Freight, you can run and pick up a pneumatic or electric nibbler for under 20 bucks. That's what I just did. As for sheet metal, I called a friend of mine who owns his own body shop, he is going to cut me the pieces I need and then add the ridges to it. The ridges help strengthen the floor so it doesn't flex and pop the rivets or welds. After he gets done doing that, I'm going to weld in all the new pieces and then paint over it all with POR-15, it's a rust inhibitor, or I may look for something a little less expensive. POR-15 is 135.00 a gallon without shipping... If you need anything or more info, pm me and I'll see what I can do.
Mark
 
well all the floor pans arent really an issue... they dont really tie into anything and you can just slap on another piece of metal... but after cutting out all the rust because youve really got to make sure you get it all... unfortunatly we have the pleasure of owning unibody vehicles... which means theres a lot more that can rust which is considered the "frame" of the vehicle which gives its stability... id pull out a wire wheel and see how far past the rust goes on those rockers and quater panels..
 
luckly with the hand sledge test i can say its away from the frame rails that run the length of the vehicle. For twenty bucks i may just grab me a set of those nibblers from harbor freight i think their saw is more then that so good deal.
 
glad to hear it.. that being the case, as jeep4play said a nibbler will make quick work of it...just get yourself some sheet metal from a place like metal supermarkets, cut it to fit...and if someones willing to help out... ideally you should weld it all in but if not dont loose sleep over it... rivets and or gorilla glue will work for simple hole repairs....X2 on the POR-15 btw...liquid gold that stuff...
 
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use a rust convertor spray to fix the rust, patch the holes with rivets and metal sheet or adhesive and metal sheet, then fiberglass the area with 3 good coats of mesh and resin. it will be bullet proof
 
Looks just like mine did :shocked:

I used self tapping screws and silicone sealant. Just hack out all you can and cut/bend up the metal to fit. You can do it without welding, even with that much rust. Just get metal that is thin enough to work with, but thick enough to make a solid floor. I used some random galvanized sheet metal that my neighbor had...got it for free.
 
rockwerks said:
use a rust convertor spray to fix the rust, patch the holes with rivets and metal sheet or adhesive and metal sheet, then fiberglass the area with 3 good coats of mesh and resin. it will be bullet proof
Click to expand...
Yes, I have to agree :worship:. Thats a good way to go. After wire wheeling/cutting rotted areas out, treat them with some converter (rust X works wonders) and get some seam adhesive or something like that, and glue the new tin in place. Many bodyshops do this becuase its harder to weild in floor pans on late models than on a older full frame chassis, becuase newer unibodys have everything closer together, and things tend to flame up after a few spot weild. I have personally set a few cars on fire, even the best weilding paper in the world can't help. You don't need fiberglass, just get some all metal.
 
BillBraski said:
Yes, I have to agree :worship:. Thats a good way to go. After wire wheeling/cutting rotted areas out, treat them with some converter (rust X works wonders) and get some seam adhesive or something like that, and glue the new tin in place. Many bodyshops do this becuase its harder to weild in floor pans on late models than on a older full frame chassis, becuase newer unibodys have everything closer together, and things tend to flame up after a few spot weild. I have personally set a few cars on fire, even the best weilding paper in the world can't help. You don't need fiberglass, just get some all metal.
Click to expand...

Yeah but I like the smell of Resin in the morning:gee:
 
yeah like i said that was more or less what i was thinking about doing minus the glass work mainly cause the last and only time i dealt with it it did not end well lol but may give it another shot a little extra reinforcement couldn't hurt may knock out all the rust and do one layer all the way accross then hit with the bedliner.
 
x6xdemonx6x said:
where can i get rust x anyways also if i can't find it do you recommend anything else other then por to use pors a bit out of my price range.
Click to expand...

I get Rust X from Advance Auto. But, I think Checker has it too (I'd rather get parts from Automotive Supply for that price!). POR 15 is THE best anti-rust coating. I use it on frames and you can brush is right on rust, it seals it out better than anything I've ever used. I really like fiberglass but its not really meant to be used for a patch on steel. You can make a far better patch with a peice of tin and some panel adhesive. If your looking for a place to find this stuff try http://www.eastwoodco.com
I order lots of stuff like this from them, they really have everything you would need. Kinda pricey, but they only sell high end refinishing products.
 
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