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how to remove and replace shocks?

B

blazinjames

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver BC, Canada
so i need to replace all my shocks on a 89 jeep cherokee and I have a few questions?

is there any way to test a used shock to see if its still good? Im planning on just taking shocks out of my parts car and putting them on my DD..there is no point buying shocks but in the next couple months i plan on doing a lift..but my shocks are shot right now and i think the ones on the parts cherokee are fine

so what is the procedure to removing shocks from start to finnish?

when replacing the shocks is there anything else i should look at or replace at the same time?

and do i just do the opposite of removing to when replacing? anything tricky i need to know about?

thanks
 
blazinjames said:
so i need to replace all my shocks on a 89 jeep cherokee and I have a few questions?

is there any way to test a used shock to see if its still good? Im planning on just taking shocks out of my parts car and putting them on my DD..there is no point buying shocks but in the next couple months i plan on doing a lift..but my shocks are shot right now and i think the ones on the parts cherokee are fine

so what is the procedure to removing shocks from start to finnish?

when replacing the shocks is there anything else i should look at or replace at the same time?

and do i just do the opposite of removing to when replacing? anything tricky i need to know about?

thanks
Click to expand...

If you want to check your old shocks, don't remove them first - press down sharply on each corner of the vehicle, and count rebounds. You should get one nearly full rebound, and then they taper off sharply. Test each corner, not each end - so you'll be checking each shock damper individually. The whole test takes about a minute, tops.

Removal and reinstallation is fairly straightforward. There are a couple of pitfalls...
  • If you're going to re-use shocks, get new bushings for the front ones anyhow. Rear as well, if you see replaceable bushings (I don't recall, offhand.) I do know you'll want to replace the bushings atop the front shocks - but the kit is a few bucks, tops (and pretty standard, and available anywhere.)
  • Be ready for the screws at the rear shocks, top mount, to be sticky. People usually complain of them snapping - but I didn't have any trouble the last couple times I did them. If you're in the "Rust Belt," get some PB Blaster and soak them for a couple of days. Give each screw one firm whack on the head with a lightweight hammer (one to two pounds) before you spray, as that will help the oil penetrate.
  • The front upper stud nuts can be silly - the stud tends to turn. Look at the very top of the stud, it has two flats. You can use a small crescent wrench to hold that, or a pair of vice grips, or a tool made for the job (should be near the new bushings you're going to go buy.)

That's all that leaps readily to mind.
 
awesome sounds fairly simple..can u still move a vehical around without shocks on it?

if i take the shocks off of my parts cherokee can i still push the jeep out of hte driveway if i need to?
 
blazinjames said:
awesome sounds fairly simple..can u still move a vehical around without shocks on it?

if i take the shocks off of my parts cherokee can i still push the jeep out of hte driveway if i need to?
Click to expand...

Yes. The vehicle sits on its springs - the shock dampers ("shock absorbers," commonly) are there to dampen spring motion so you don't bounce around all day after running over a dime - that's why that test I gave you works. Your springs are more properly called "shock absorbers" - that's what they do.

You can push a vehicle around all day long without shock dampers in place - but I wouldn't want to drive the thing. You should be fine.
 
X 100
Start with the PB Blaster now, that may make the upper rear mount bolts easier to get out without breaking.
 
5-90 said:
Yes. The vehicle sits on its springs - the shock dampers ("shock absorbers," commonly) are there to dampen spring motion so you don't bounce around all day after running over a dime - that's why that test I gave you works. Your springs are more properly called "shock absorbers" - that's what they do.

You can push a vehicle around all day long without shock dampers in place - but I wouldn't want to drive the thing. You should be fine.
Click to expand...

Actually it's pretty funny when you have a lift party and one of the jeeps is sans shocks so you send the new guy out for luchtime pizza run...in that jeep :D :D :D one mile down, one mile back, seasick as hell....

Oh, don't forget to remove the old bushings from the intake manifold where you put them down on, they tend to get stinky and smokey when they touch the exhaust tabs on the exhaust manifold...
 
One little pointer... If you remove and replace one shock at a time you can look at another mounted shock for reference. This helps when you try to remember what washer goes where and things like that. Hope this helps!
 
whats the best way to fix them broken rear upper shock mounts i bought a jeep with them broken and some GHETTO brackets welded to the floor...
 
I know some replace that with bar pin eliminators, me, I take mine to sears and let them fix the dam bolts when they break them.... so far they have fixed both the XJ and TJ :D :D :D Now I just take one bolt at a time out, clean it, anti-seize it and put it back in, takes 20 min on each jeep.
 
XBoBJ said:
lol sears will do it, just tell them i want my shock mount bolts fixed and they'll know? how much did it run yah?

EDIT: searching does wonders http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=243785542#post243785542
Click to expand...

I wait till they go on sale where they include installation with the shocks. Last set I got was like $20 per corner plus tax... for monroe gas shocks.
After the installer got done he looked me in the eye and said 'you didn't want to screw with those bolts did ya', he'd seen me wrenching on jeeps at a couple of lift parties when he worked for a parts store.... told him I didn't mind screwing with the bolts, just didn't want to have to fix them :D :D :D
 
i would also recomend heat (propane torch is usualy sufficient) more so only when you are removing the old ones and not the ones off your parts xj as to not burn up the bushings on the ones your putting back in. i broke off the stud on my rear lower when i tryed to break it free and i had been pb blastering it for alittle over a week. heat is a good freind to have. my $.02
 
5-90 said:
If you want to check your old shocks, don't remove them first - press down sharply on each corner of the vehicle, and count rebounds. You should get one nearly full rebound, and then they taper off sharply. Test each corner, not each end - so you'll be checking each shock damper individually. The whole test takes about a minute, tops.

Removal and reinstallation is fairly straightforward. There are a couple of pitfalls...
  • If you're going to re-use shocks, get new bushings for the front ones anyhow. Rear as well, if you see replaceable bushings (I don't recall, offhand.) I do know you'll want to replace the bushings atop the front shocks - but the kit is a few bucks, tops (and pretty standard, and available anywhere.)
  • Be ready for the screws at the rear shocks, top mount, to be sticky. People usually complain of them snapping - but I didn't have any trouble the last couple times I did them. If you're in the "Rust Belt," get some PB Blaster and soak them for a couple of days. Give each screw one firm whack on the head with a lightweight hammer (one to two pounds) before you spray, as that will help the oil penetrate.
  • The front upper stud nuts can be silly - the stud tends to turn. Look at the very top of the stud, it has two flats. You can use a small crescent wrench to hold that, or a pair of vice grips, or a tool made for the job (should be near the new bushings you're going to go buy.)
That's all that leaps readily to mind.
Click to expand...
x2 just did my 85,did all the same as mentioned aboved,no bushings on rear,only front.they were oem shocks,pb plasted for 2 days,and i only had to weld 1 top bolt on rear shock,pb plaster is a mans best friend,love it more than my wife!
 
85xjproject said:
x2 just did my 85,did all the same as mentioned aboved,no bushings on rear,only front.they were oem shocks,pb plasted for 2 days,and i only had to weld 1 top bolt on rear shock,pb plaster is a mans best friend,love it more than my wife!
Click to expand...

Well, I wouldn't go that far....

If you can't get PB, or you need to soak something, or you're just in a hurry, I've found using a bath of acetone and Type F transmission fluid (roughly 1:3 mix rate) works rather well. The acetone thins the carrier, and the huge amount of detergent in Type F helps to clean things. I used to use that on chains for heavy equipment when they were frozen up (think something along the lines of a Ditch Witch... Also worked well on chainsaw bars and chains.)

Type F is also a good ersatz hand cleaner - get the grease off with Type F, and the Type F off with conventional bar soap.
 
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