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For serious: WMS mismatch.

Archdukeferdinand

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Boone, NC
OKay, asked this question with a lot of others in my 14 bolt swap thread.

Now someone's offering a C&C 14 bolt for $50, and I'd like to jump on it but don't want to grab it without knowing...

How much variation can you have WMS front to back? In 2wd does it even matter (I'm thinking no, but...)?
 
as much as you want. as long as the axle is square, it will track straight. the only thing that you may loose (as far as my understanding goes), is some turning radius.
 
codyj86 said:
as much as you want. as long as the axle is square, it will track straight. the only thing that you may loose (as far as my understanding goes), is some turning radius.

Makes sense, I was thinking it might be like having different sized tires on in 4wd when you go to turn, but I guess I was overthinking it.

I'm gonna try to get the 14 bolt rear end regardless. At that price I could just resell it if it doesn't work out.

Thanks for the info
 
My 8.8 with a Ruff Stuff diff cover and a DPG gas tank skid just clear. Actually it just rubs the paint it's so close. I don't know how you plan to fit a 14 under it without a lot of lift or gas tank relocation. Like I said I don't know but mine is a squeeze. If I had to do it over I'd run the 14 and relocate the gas tank and move the axel back. Sombody else may know if a 14 will fit with a certain amount of lift.
 
Stumpalump said:
My 8.8 with a Ruff Stuff diff cover and a DPG gas tank skid just clear. Actually it just rubs the paint it's so close. I don't know how you plan to fit a 14 under it without a lot of lift or gas tank relocation. Like I said I don't know but mine is a squeeze. If I had to do it over I'd run the 14 and relocate the gas tank and move the axel back. Sombody else may know if a 14 will fit with a certain amount of lift.

I'm at 5" of lift, and after a few oat sodas the sawzall and I become one in body and spirit. The rig quivers with fear during these moments.

I'm not worried about height, its getting discs and I'll see about locating spring perches and shock mounts... I've seen 14 bolts before, am I forgetting how big the pumpkin really is?

As I've said before, I don't NEED a 14 bolt by any means, but I'm cheap and I believe in building things durably...ONCE if possible.

Gears alone would be $350 for my current axles, I've given myself the opportunity to spend the cost of gears and labor on building something stouter - given the interest that's there for my rear axle, I think after I sell the stock axles I've got a chance to do this for not too much $$$
 
In a perfect world for a XJ sized vehicle you want the rear axle to be approx. 1"-2" narrower than the front axle.

A narrow rear axle helps reduce turning radius and transitional stability (i.e., quick manoeuvres at highway speeds).
 
I knew there was a reason I installed that 8.8!
 
Root Moose said:
In a perfect world for a XJ sized vehicle you want the rear axle to be approx. 1"-2" narrower than the front axle.

A narrow rear axle helps reduce turning radius and transitional stability (i.e., quick manoeuvres at highway speeds).

In a perfect world, my XJ-sized XJ would be left alone in the shop overnight with a steiner 430 tractor, a PB edge snowcat, some romantic music, candles, lotions, bath oils, expensive chocolates...

And in the morning I'd come to find something with an incredibly low COG, articulated frame, electric over hydraulic 8 wheel drive, 330 horse mercedes diesel, powdercoated everything AND a rear track width that's 1-2" narrower than the front :eeks1:

Thanks for the help guys, I am prone to forgetting things (like how differentials work) and asking dumb questions. And asking dumb questions.
 
If your bolt patterns don't match, or even if they do, you can always run rims with different backspacing to bring the track widths back to even. IE, a 5" BS 15x8 in the rear, and a 3.5" BS 15x8 in the front to give a slightly wider front track (or whatever is required).
 
If you use the C&C, or Dual rear wheel, hubs your WMS will be 63". Which with stock wheels is fine for wide tire and you wont need spacers. I use 14b's alot now and I am actually starting to sell them. It works awsome in an XJ, the gas tank is not in the way at all, but some reinforcement of the unibody is reccomended. You dont have to, but if you are stuffing a 14b you will prolly be going rocking alot more with that beast under you. The normal hubs it comes with are 67" WMS.
Just make sure when you relocate your perches on the 14b that they are 3.5" from the mounting plate on the wheel end of the axle, that way you get the 42" seperation you need for the XJ.
PM me if you need anything more specific about the 14b swap.
 
My Willys pickup comes stock with a 57" front and 63.5" rear axle widths so you have nothing to worry about.
 
Just be careful with your location of the rear calipers. They can interfere with the springs.
 
Gojeep said:
My Willys pickup comes stock with a 57" front and 63.5" rear axle widths so you have nothing to worry about.
Half a foot difference, eh? Not surprising on a ~50 year old truck. Does it handle like a tricycle or a Reliant Robin?

If/when you swing new axles under that thing you may want to consider a different setup. ;)
 
Root Moose said:
Half a foot difference, eh? Not surprising on a ~50 year old truck. Does it handle like a tricycle or a Reliant Robin?

If/when you swing new axles under that thing you may want to consider a different setup. ;)

The old F1 cars used to run much wider rear track than front. Most of your super cars from the 80's at least did the same thing too.
 
Yep, old tech and within the constraints of what was available at the time.

I was being more facetious more than anything but to exaggerate the point:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=roAKRTR69zU
 
A C&C 14 Bolt axle is a great swap! It takes no more rearward room than an 8.8 and the 63" width is something you can live with. With the caliper brackets I don't think you have a problem, we are the only guys making them for the C&C so far and they are clocked to have the pins on both sides of the springs or both under if a 2" block is used, no problem.

But if you are condcerned with the mismatch why not pair it up with a wider front axle? Lots of options out there.
 
Gravel Maker said:
But if you are condcerned with the mismatch why not pair it up with a wider front axle? Lots of options out there.
That's on the way too. Thinking something like a 80+ widetrack FSJ 44 or 77- ford hp44.

The concern was because the rig is DD and I was wondering if I'd be able to drive it with the mismatch while I figure out something for the front. 14 bolt deal fell through so I'm still on the hunt. Talking with a guy about a ford 9" now but I think I'd rather a 14bff...

I may end up ordering a set of caliper brackets, thanks for the heads up and the advice
 
Not to mention that the 14bt is 550 pounds, which will give you a hella low COG... Ford 9" is maybe 200 on a heavy day..

My buddy Brandon is throwin one into his ZJ
http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34720

I sold him a HP44 from a 77' 150 that we're throwin in too..
 
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