Dana 60 from 96 dodge?

I have searched around about D60 tech, and all the lists I have found stop at 1993. Does anyone have info on the later year dodge D60s? I am looking at buying a set from a '96 dodge and would like to get all the specs. The casting number is #603889, it has 4.10s, speed sensor?, and came from a 1996 3/4 ton ram. That is about all I know.

front or rear axle?

i googled, dana 60, and pirate has a bunch of info

89xj said:

front or rear axle?

both, but the casting # is from the front. Dont know if they will be different #s or not.


i googled, dana 60, and pirate has a bunch of info

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The axle tech page I viewed on Pirate had the same info as an excell spread sheet I have (given to me by mk153smaw). Nothing for '94+ Dodge.

Son of a Bi***! I just read the Pirate write up again. I guess I just over looked it last time. That sucks! I should have known something was up, there are not lock outs on the hubs. Back to the drawing board...

rcmf5525 said:

Son of a Bi***! I just read the Pirate write up again. I guess I just over looked it last time. That sucks! I should have known something was up, there are not lock outs on the hubs. Back to the drawing board...

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Assuming this is steaming off of your last thread (here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=941398)

Looks like your on the write track reading BillaVista's D60 Bible. Read it over a few more times and you'll save yourself a ton of thinking / useless searching.

Do yourself a favor and look for a Ford D60 for the front. '78-79 F250 Snow-Fighters and F350s are the best to get them from, but arn't cheap if the seller knows what they have. Later model Fords would also be a wise choice, but the driver's tube is shorter making for some interesting bracketry. That '96 Dodge D60 is probably drivers drop, low pinion, and has center axle disconnect, which only creates weak points, unless you spend some $$$.

GM/Chevy/Early Dodge D60s are good, but are generally passanger drop and low-pinion (later model Dodge's had driver drop, don't recall the cutoff year). A Ford D60 will get you driver's drop and high pinion. The later will make it easier on you unless you plan to change things with the rest of the drivetrain. However, it can be done using a passanger drop , and done well. Vetteboy and a few others have some nice XJs with passanger drops, I believe Vetteboy used a Dodge D60.

Edit: What size tires are you looking at? Your last thread indicated 33's... a D60 is not nessesary for that size tire.

Depending on how much you can get the axle for it may still be a good deal even with unitbearings and no lockouts. You may check to see if it is a vaccume dissconnect as well. I don't know offhand what year dodges had them.

Also some Dodges are drivers side drop but untill the newer 14bolt fronts they were all low pinion.

Even so a low pinion 60 is a major strength increase over a D30, low or high pinion.

EDIT: also with the prices being asked for a 78-79 ford D60 you might as well build a 60 with aftermarket stuff. Last I looked prices were in the $1400 range around here for one.

It looks like I can get the front for $450 and the rear for $150. I was quoted $295 for shipping. That would put me at $900 to my door for a set of 60s. The issue is they are 32 spline shafts and vacuum discos. Good luck finding an inexpensive locker for 32 spline D60. ARB makes one but it was selling on Amazon (only place I found it) for $1100! http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB-RD95-32-spline-4-56-Up-Numerically/dp/B000FPXWJQ
I guess this is the disconnect...

Looks like it is vacuum.

I wanted to find a set of stock 60s, refurb them, slap on some bracketry, coil buckets, and steering, and mount them up. Keep the cost low. But if I get these, I would have to replace everything to up grade one part. Everything is 30 or 35 spline.

I am going to run 35s. I know that is small for 60s, but if I am going to take the time (and money) to build a set of axles, why not build 60s? I want them full width too. Legality is the only reason I would see for cutting them down, and I dont think anyone seems to give a crap around here.

rcmf5525 said:

... if I am going to take the time (and money) to build a set of axles, why not build 60s? ....

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That's what I thought.... didn't end up being anything near my budget. I've blown the entire XJ build budget and then some on just them; and I havn't even finished them yet.

Honestly, if I were you... I'd pass on that setup.
To many downfalls to that above Dodge D60... I mean its low pinion, has center axle disconnect, balljoints (kingpins would be better), etc. Again, I'd keep searching.

Heck if you're only planning 35s and not any bigger, look for a 44/60 setup from a 78-79 Ford. That setup wouldn't run you to much (maybe $250-450 for the pair) and it'll leave you money to work with on that $1300 budget.

Yeah, I am starting to think that way. Hell, D44 Front $250ish, D60/14bolt rear under $200.

I found a set of D44/D60 from a 1976 F250 'highboy'. I should be able to buy the set for $150. That sounds like a start!

I contacted the seller of the D44/D60 set. It is a go for $150. They are in running shape as they sit. I think that is a great price. They are from a 3/4 ton so they are 8 lug. What would be the best way to go? Leave them 8 lug or convert to 5 lug?

Would the TNT truss work on full sized D44s? If so, they have a conversion package for $380.75. It comes with everything I would need to mount the axle. Would that be my best bet or is there another vendor that makes a conversion kit that is better? I know Rusty's sells bulder parts, and I could piece together the needed brackets for around $220, but no truss...

76 250 might have a closed knuckle low pinion 44, you might check.

If it is a high pinion open knuckle leave it 8 lug. The steering arms are higher on the 8 lug knuckles and if they are reamed out and the steering flipped it is just a little under a true high steer setup.

Plus with 8 lug you could run h1 beadlocks and stay mostly street legal. Probably have to get spacers in the front.

jmop said:

76 250 might have a closed knuckle low pinion 44, you might check.

If it is a high pinion open knuckle leave it 8 lug. The steering arms are higher on the 8 lug knuckles and if they are reamed out and the steering flipped it is just a little under a true high steer setup.

Plus with 8 lug you could run h1 beadlocks and stay mostly street legal. Probably have to get spacers in the front.

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high pinion open knuckle, check your facts :kissyou:

If you have some major coin,theyve got a killer hub kit for it!
http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=17&idproduct=52