stubborn bolt driving me nuts

here's the situation and specs.

i was working on putting in my new tomken gas tank skid on my '00, except the two bolts that go into the frame which support the tank shield (from the exhaust) and holds the bracket that supports the tail pipe were giving me some serious grief. an impact wrench was having problems getting them to shake loose with a fair amount of PB Blast administered.

question: is there a nutsert in those holes? the reason i ask is...
so i grabbed a wrachet wrench and started tugging on it and it actually broke free a bit and the bolt seemed to be backing out of the thread. but after a few cranks it seemed like it stopped turning in the nutsert. then when i would load up on the shaft of the wrachet, even after the bolt had broken free- there would be a squeaking and then a release and a sudden stop... kinda jerky and squeaky like a metal on metal sound.

did i f- up and strip it out? is my only solution to try and drill it out or dig into the frame? is it possible that a heafty squirt and a few days soaking of pb blast will help resolve it?

input appreciated. thanks.

zeelaagee said:

here's the situation and specs.

i was working on putting in my new tomken gas tank skid on my '00, except the two bolts that go into the frame which support the tank shield (from the exhaust) and holds the bracket that supports the tail pipe were giving me some serious grief. an impact wrench was having problems getting them to shake loose with a fair amount of PB Blast administered.

question: is there a nutsert in those holes? the reason i ask is...
so i grabbed a wrachet wrench and started tugging on it and it actually broke free a bit and the bolt seemed to be backing out of the thread. but after a few cranks it seemed like it stopped turning in the nutsert. then when i would load up on the shaft of the wrachet, even after the bolt had broken free- there would be a squeaking and then a release and a sudden stop... kinda jerky and squeaky like a metal on metal sound.

did i f- up and strip it out? is my only solution to try and drill it out or dig into the frame? is it possible that a heafty squirt and a few days soaking of pb blast will help resolve it?

input appreciated. thanks.

Click to expand...

If it's squeaking and creaking, it's probably just rusted in there so damn well you can't break it all at once. Usually, when a weld nut lets go, it just goes.

Since you're back near the fuel tank, I won't recommend using the "blue wrench" (fire) - since there's too much risk. Since you're likely to need to replace the screws anyhow, see if you can't get a drill in the head - centre punch the thing to make sure it doesn't walk. Get the point of the drill bit in there, and then use a nice, solid centre punch to give it a couple of good whacks with a large hammer. Once or twice - don't get silly.

Reapply PB Blaster (it should be broken loose just a bit now) and let it set. Try again.

Failing that, find out what size the screw is. The reason I had you centre punch the thing is so you'd have a pilot, in case you need to drill the thing out. Get a set of left-hand twist bits (you should have those anyhow...) and start with the smallest. Work your way up from there - you should be able to remove the screw before you start removing thread material, since you're essentially allowing the screw to collapse (hey, you were going to replace it anyhow, right?:gee: )

I don't want to go into the torch trick, since I don't know you and I don't know how well you handle your torches (or which screw you're working on, how close it is to the tank, ...) You might be able to convince me, but it will take some work.

5-90... that's an excellent explanation. i was thinking of possibly applying the blue wrench if all else fails. i was thinking that because there is a shield in place between the bolt ant the tank that it may be worth while to try and heat the area around the bolt to expand that area- (or would it be better to heat the bolt?) but only as a last resort and with GREAT caution applied.

no, i don't have lLHT (didn't know they existed to be honest) are they available at harbor freight?- and will try that trick as a second to last resort. it's gonna be tricky to do b/c the tail pipe sits right below the bolts and makes getting in there quite tough with deep socket tools (only about 4-5" to work with there).

here's to hoping that PB Blast Loves me.

greatly appreciated!

Use your impact again and tighten it back down,then try loosing it.Keep tighting and loosening and use a lot of blaster.Alot of times this works with the most stubbern bolts.

zeelaagee said:

5-90... that's an excellent explanation. i was thinking of possibly applying the blue wrench if all else fails. i was thinking that because there is a shield in place between the bolt ant the tank that it may be worth while to try and heat the area around the bolt to expand that area- (or would it be better to heat the bolt?) but only as a last resort and with GREAT caution applied.

no, i don't have lLHT (didn't know they existed to be honest) are they available at harbor freight?- and will try that trick as a second to last resort. it's gonna be tricky to do b/c the tail pipe sits right below the bolts and makes getting in there quite tough with deep socket tools (only about 4-5" to work with there).

here's to hoping that PB Blast Loves me.

greatly appreciated!

Click to expand...

ILHT = your phrase for left-hand twist drills? You can usually find them at better-stocked hardware stores, and some better auto houses (not the chains, they won't even know what they are...)

If you've just got to use a blue wrench on the thing, you really want to get your fuel tank well-shielded - removed would be better. Heat the screw, since it will force the hole to expand. Heat only the screw - heating the surrounding area can weaken it.

Protection? They make plumber's mats (you can usually find them near the blowtorches) to shield the area behind where you're soldering, but I'd still feel better just pulling the tank. Failing that, a full tank is paradoxically safer than one with empty space - fewer fumes. Just like a full gas can is "safer" than an empty one - since an empty one is likely to have fumes in it (which is why I usually leave the lids off of jerry cans after I empty them - to air them out.)

I know what I'm doing, and I know my work well - and I'd still be nervous having a blue wrench anywhere near a fuel tank. So, you are definitely doing this sort of thing at your own risk!

5-90 said:

I know what I'm doing, and I know my work well - and I'd still be nervous having a blue wrench anywhere near a fuel tank. So, you are definitely doing this sort of thing at your own risk!

Click to expand...

roger that! will definitely heed advice given!