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T-Case Leakage

RªMB°

RªMB°

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Yucaipa
So I Noticed That My T-Case Was Leaking A Horrible Brownish Blackish Fluid Out The Rear End Today At The Output Shaft To The Rear Diff. I Changed The Fluid Inside And It Stop The Leak For A Bit And Now Its Back Again.

Its An '87 AW4 Auto With A NP242 (Previous Thought 231 Got Wrong Info) Do I Have A Bad Seal Within The T-Case Or Is It Busted Because Both Answers Require Me Probably Droppin It:bawl:
 
First....

Stop adding stop leak. Putting crap into the t-case isn't a solution....

Second, the other poster has no idea what he talking about. You do not have to remove the tailcone to change a rear output seal.

Drain the T-case(mostly to get the crap out of it, and if it is leaking a 'browish,blackish fluid' it NEEDS changed)

Remove the rear driveshaft. 4-bolts at the rear axle pinion, and the shaft slides off.

Remove the rear seal. Use a seal puller,If you have one. If not use a flat bladed screwdriver along the edge of the seal and output.

Oil the new seal(ATF, or vasoline both work well)

Put the new seal in. Use the correct size seall driver(if you have it) or a block of wood will work. The seal must go in straight, and you have to be careful not to nick it up.

Replace the rear driveshaft.

Refill the T-case with Dex II or Dex III ATF, or a quality synthetic.....
 
To add to the above poster, the only thing I would do differently is to mark the relation of the driveshaft with the yolk with some paint or something before you remove it, otherwise you might get some vibes.

I just replaced the rear output seal on my 242 the other day, took me around an hour total, and that was with me taking my time. The seal was around a $10 part from the dealer.

heres a good article:
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTCseal.htm
 
Not to steal the thread - but a similar question.

My son's 1988 cherokee looks like it's leaking around the rear output seal, but it's not really the seal itself.

It looks like the gasket on the output shaft cone has popped out, and it's leaking around where the four bolts hold it on.

In looking at the article above, it appears that if we follow the same procedure for replacing the output seal, we could then pull the 3 or 4 bolts on the cone and fix it. I'm assuming that there is some type of gasket, or should we just use some RTV to seal it. should we go ahead and replace the output seal at the same time?

Thanks for any help/suggestions.
 
I dont think he actually put "Stop Leak" in the TC...I think its just the way he wrote it And Its Hard To Read When You Capitalize Every Single Word.

:)
 
No I Didnt Put "Stop Leak" In The T-Case. Haynes Manual Says Fill T-Case To Bottom Of Fill Plug, Does Any1 Know Actually How Much That Is?
 
Thanks For All Your Guy's Help.
Got To Wait Until Wednesday To Finish Replacing The Rear Output Shaft Seal Since Dealership Has An Optional Boot That I Want. They Dont Open Until After Christmas =(
 
I Hate Not Being The Original Owner Of My Jeep. The Previous Owner Was Wacked Out On Drugs And Put The NP242 T-Case Tag On A NP231. Im Sick Of This Stuff All Over My Jeep. Grrrr
 
I Stuck The New Seal In Now For The Mean Time And Will Add The Boot Later (Shock Boot, Make My Own) Now My Light 4WD And Lock Refuse To Come On Although Engaged. I Get A Grinding Noise When The T-Case Is In Neutral And The Shifter Is In Driver Or Park. Now What?
 
RªMB° said:
I Hate Not Being The Original Owner Of My Jeep. The Previous Owner Was Wacked Out On Drugs And Put The NP242 T-Case Tag On A NP231. Im Sick Of This Stuff All Over My Jeep. Grrrr
Click to expand...

Now your saying someone drilled out the rivet, replaced the tag, and re-riveted the tag back on?????

Look at the T-case shifter bezel, what are the settings....
 
RªMB° said:
I Stuck The New Seal In Now For The Mean Time And Will Add The Boot Later (Shock Boot, Make My Own) Now My Light 4WD And Lock Refuse To Come On Although Engaged. I Get A Grinding Noise When The T-Case Is In Neutral And The Shifter Is In Driver Or Park. Now What?
Click to expand...


The boot doesn't do anything except trap crap in the driveshaft area..

Many times if the T-case hasn't been used much, the t-case linkage needs lubed and adjusted. The T-case may just not be engaging completely.

The light is operated by the switch on the side of the T-case.

And stop using the Camel Case... It Is Unbelievably Irritating And Hard To Read.
 
It Has A Screw In The Middle Of The Tag And Not A Rivet!! I Still Need To Know Why I Get A Grinding When The T-Case Is In Neutral And The Shifter Is In Park Or Drive?
 
rambo,

You have been asked 3 times to stop useing the shift key for the first letter of every word. It is a real pain in the ass to read your posts and I expect people will just ignore you if you continue.
 
I Dont See An Obviously Obnoxious Problem With Me Doin It...Instead Of You All Doin Abunch Of Slander Grow Up. This Is How I Type And I Dont Wanna Hear Bitchin! My Truck Still Grinds And Everyone Tells Me To Stop Typin Caps Instead Of Answering My Question. I Dont Wanna Be Rude But Fuck!! Until A Moderator Of The Forum Tells Me Otherwise I Will Continue ToType Like This.
 
Last edited:
Might not want to swear either, kids may be lurking. Did it make any grinding noises before you did fluid? Are you sure its the TC making the grinding noise and not the flexplate. Check the linkage for adjustment. Do a search on here for the adjustment procedures, they are pretty simple.
 
qUITE lIKELY a lINKAGE aDJUSTMENT, tHE t-CASE mIGHT nOT bE fULLY eNGAGED iNTO nEUTRAL. mY 98 hAD oVER $5.00 iN cHANGE uNDER tHE sHIFTER, wOULD gRIND eVERY tIME i pUT iT iNTO 4lO...

wHERE iS tHE gRINDING cOMING fROM?
 
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