Detroit or Powertrax...etc

I have a 1989 Cherokee Laredo with a 4.6 stroker, chrysler 8.25 29 spline (out of a 1998 Cherokee) AW4 tranny, 4.5" RE lift, 33" tires. I am going to be putting 4:56's or 4:11's in it. I am trying to decide what type of locker to put in the rear end. I dont want an air or electric locker. It is a 50/50 DD, trail rig. I have heard you can get popping noises with the detroit locker, and have heard the powertrax may not be reliable/strong enough.

With this combination - what would you guys recommend I put in the rear?

Aussie locker...if they ever come out with the final product for the 8.25!!!

I went with a No-Slip. They are quiet, work well, easy to install, and at least as strong as the rest of the axle. If you need more strength than the No-Slip, you need a D60. Not cheap though. But until Aussie gets theirs in production, it's the least expensive option.

And go with 4.56's. I put my 33's on yesterday, and I'm glad I went with 4.56 gears. With the stroker yours should drive great.

You know you could get 100 different opinions on this question
Basically in 2-3 hundred dollar range all the lunch box lockers are basically the same ,sure they may have different springs and small changes in their design but they all come from the same basic design so its really just personal opinions you get. Some will experience lot of clicking some not much ect. I have lock rites in front and rear and I can hear the front sometimes but really cant hear the rear at all, my buddy has same lockers and you can hear his click clap really well when turning so each axel provides enough variation in machining to allow for different clearances and therefore some changes in the amount noise you will get. So you won’t know till you install how noticeable the clicking will be in your setup.
But for the money I don’t think you can beat them. If you have the money to spend selectable are going to be silent when off in all applications
As for strength well that again in another opinion and I am sure the axel shaft will break before the locker in any case (personal experience on more than one occasion)..And that action can possibly break any locker. (Not that I have seen that)
But the lunch box lockers are far stronger than the stock carrier and shafts so they are not the weak link

Be absolutly sure to follow the directions EXACTLY and tripple check that you have the right specs. If you dont, and you go ahead and install it by forcing the c-clips in, you will NEVER get it back appart and you will have to destroy the axle to remove the shafts and locker. For this particular axle get a detroit or ARB. With the stroker motor you should really be looking at a 9" or D60. I had good luck with my Ford 8.8 and 33s with a built stock displacement motor, but after the stroker motor went in the rear end went Boom by first backing out the ring gear bolts and then it took out the ARB.

AARON

Detroit all the way!!
got one in my rear 44 with 35's
it simply will not break. strongest most reliable locker made.

basically, when you are on the gas it locks. coasting.. it unlocks

love my detroit works first time every time
have seen no slips that don't

detroit fan here. Mine hasn't popped in a while. Mine survived a chipped ring. scarred it up, but still performing well.

now the real question. i have never attempted gears or locker, so how much trouble would i have doing it myself? i do all my own work to my vehicles myself, so am mechanically inclined.

I can't remember if I ever had a differential open in the past, but I managed to install my PowerTrax without problems by taking my time, reading the instructions and looking at lots of on-line install threads before I started.

I'm quite happy with it, but with a manual trans it lets itself be known.
I'll looking forward to getting lockers in the '89 4x4 with auto trans.

Here's my opinion and we all know how opinions go...

Detroit is great the the rear.... but absolutely are the suck up front!!! Break a u-joint and it'll take out the Detroit 9 times out of 10...

W/ the 29 spline 8.25 your options are pretty limited.. When I had a 8.25 I ran a PT No-Slip. It was very nice, had great on-road manners, absoutely silent, and never had a single issue w/ it off road.

I doubt you'll destroy the 8.25 w/ a stroker and 33's... but I'm sure it could happen.. and if it does it would most likely happen w/ a detroit as well...

As far as I've encountered... customer service at Richmond Gear is 100 times better than at Eaton.. But that's just personal experience. I also had a shop do some regearing and they installed the PT No-slip wrong and broke an active paddle spacer... Well it cost me 25.00 shipped for a new one.. so Parts are pretty cheap for the Richmond products as well...

I say go No-Slip for the costs and re-gearing a 8.25 can be a pain...

I agree about it being weird up front. But it is affective. how many times have you seen a u joint break one in result?

RyanM said:

I agree about it being weird up front. But it is affective. how many times have you seen a u joint break one in result?

Click to expand...

5 or 6 times actually.. just about everytime you break a u-joint it'll take one out..

Woodkrawler actually spun a cap off and took out his front Detroit....

Thanks for the heads up