jbmoose said:
Keep me posted on this one. I just bought the Banks TorqueTube for my 2000. How did the install gofor ya?
Not bad but the only way to swing an 18-inch torque wrench on some of bolts is to have the engine sitting on a stand in the middle of the garage.
I think it was in the JEGS catalog that arrived the day after that I saw some manifold bolts with the hex key style heads on them. With the tool going inside the bolt head instead of the outside of it like a wrench or a socket it think would have made it much easier.
Like these bolts at
JEGS
That would have made it easier than the 9/16 heads that I had. A wobble extension was great to have and I wish I had a flex socket for a couple of them.
My research said that the exhaust header bolts are special and have higher than normal bronze content to take the heat. This may or may not be true but for 12 –15 dollars the special bolts are better than doing it a second time.
I also recommend doing a motor mounts at the same time for 2 reasons.
1) They are stupid easy on the driver’s side when the manifolds are out of the way. (Not that it is that hard with the manifolds on)
2) A cracked exhaust manifold will contribute to the deterioration of the drivers side mount. A rotting drivers side mount will allow the engine to move around an pull on the exhaust and the manifold making it crack more and spew even more hot exhaust onto the mount.
Here are some pics….
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=59837
I almost forgot there is a special tool to have to get the fuel line off. I think it was like $8 at the parts counter. It is the little plastic disks set to get the quick connect lines apart.
I have been very confident that the exhaust manifold is on there and not leaking. When cold and freshly started I have run my hands around the gasket area feeling for leaks.. There are none.
However on the intake I have been worried that I have a leak and that will cause one or two of the cylinders to run extra lean...I am not sure how to verify this.
Jeff