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Preventive maintenance, radiator?

D

dutchjeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Half Moon Bay, CA
Hi All,

A question on preventive maintenance (breaking the rule "don't touch it unless it's broken"). The thing I'm concerned about is the radiatior in my wife's DD (XJ, '92, 155k). I suspect it's the original radiator but I am unsure. Now the cooling on the XJ works splendid, so everything is functional. However, if the radiator is really old and could crap out any time, I prever replacing than having my wife get stuck somewhere with the XJ overheating or coolant spraying out of the front end. In the summer I will have some time to work on it so that may be a good time to get it done (if needed).

So, is there any way to visually estimate the state the radiator is in? When should I certainly replace it?

Thanks for any input!

Tim
 
Flushing it out and installing new coolant could definately be considered "good maintenance", as coolant looses its ability to "cool" and inhibit corrosion as it gets older. You can also visually inspect the core to see if the fins are corroded or feel "soft"...hope this helps...
 
bfred said:
Flushing it out and installing new coolant could definately be considered "good maintenance", as coolant looses its ability to "cool" and inhibit corrosion as it gets older. You can also visually inspect the core to see if the fins are corroded or feel "soft"...hope this helps...
Click to expand...

I've flushed it not too long ago, including the heater core. That was preventive also, since I have never had any cooling problems (other than self-inflicted t-stat problems:laugh:). The fluid is very fresh.

That's also why I am a little hesitant to just rip out the radiator when it's working perfectly ok. How do you inspect the core? You mean just by looking at the outside of the radiator and pushing against the fins?
 
I think you'll probably want to just replace it, as it is a quick, easy, and rewarding job. On the XJ I believe the motor and tranny mounts should always be replaced at the same time as the radiator because 1. this way, if you do hit the radiator while lifting the engine, you won't have damaged anything valuable, and 2. much more importantly, if the motor mounts are soft and old, there is a chance that the fan could eat the radiator while you're bombing down the Embarcadero. This happened to me last year, and it ate a big hole in a very nice aftermarket radiator.

If the old radiator still looks in good shape, you could backflush the system until the water comes out looking clean, then install new coolant as preventative maintenance.
 
Don't use autozone's lifetime warranty radiator either... My stock one had 150K on it, sprung a leak. So far now I have replaced it again every year for the last 3. I am not on radiator #4... They guy at autozone even said "see ya next year" when I left...
 
I flushed the system about a half year ago. No problems so far.

Anyway, will give the radiator a good visual inspection and decide whether or not to change it out.

I've looked into radiators and will probably go for the two-row at radiatorbarn. Read great stuff about those guys on NAXJA (I think service IS important) and I gathered a two-row is good enough for my mild-climate on-road purpose. It seems like a good deal.

Will get back on this when I decide to take the radiator out, since that would be a good opportunity to do some other minor things (e.g. sweaty tranny lines), for which I could use some advise.

Thanks guys for the discussion!
 
Use DISTILLED WATER to mix with the anti-freeze. You can find it at your local grocery store by the gallon. Distilled water has the minerals removed from the water, it is as close to pure H2O that you can practically get to for a reasonable cost.

Most parts of the country has a lot of minerals dissolved in the tap water (although healthy for you, its NOT for you cooling system). The minerals boil out of the coolant and deposit in the cooling system. As well, they help to conduct and promote galvanic corrosion.

The only way I've inspected a radiator core is too look/feel the outside and peer down into the filler neck flash light at the inside. If you have a closed system, you might not have the filler neck on the radiator. Although you can only see a small portion of the inside top of the core, most likely the rest of the core looks just like the little portion you can see. Look for fairly clean metal that is the close to the appearance of the metal when new. If its corroded, aluminum forms a white powderish coat, with pitting, copper turns green/black that signs it might need replacing soon. As well, deposits, if you or the PO have been using tap water and not changing the coolant often it can build up and clog the system, it often forms as scale all around the openings of the cooling vanes/tubes.

I've seen all metal radiators that looked brand new after 12 years and 250k miles, if change the coolant often enough and use distilled water. Unfortunately, all the manufacturers have switched to the slightly cheaper plastic end cap radiators, which no matter how well you take care of them, the seal between the plastic end cap and the core eventually will deteriorate and leak. Nothing you can do about that, see signs of leakage or deterioration around that joint, maybe its time to replace it before it springs a leak.
 
kleake said:
Don't use autozone's lifetime warranty radiator either... My stock one had 150K on it, sprung a leak. So far now I have replaced it again every year for the last 3. I am not on radiator #4... They guy at autozone even said "see ya next year" when I left...
Click to expand...

ive always had bad experiances with autozone parts. they gave my dad tie rod ends without a zerk fitting once. and almost anything from autozone is built half ass.

my dads autozone "duralast" starter went out on him in two weeks. not thats a long lasting starter. hah.
 
Rick Anderson said:
Use DISTILLED WATER to mix with the anti-freeze. You can find it at your local grocery store by the gallon. Distilled water has the minerals removed from the water, it is as close to pure H2O that you can practically get to for a reasonable cost.

Most parts of the country has a lot of minerals dissolved in the tap water (although healthy for you, its NOT for you cooling system). The minerals boil out of the coolant and deposit in the cooling system. As well, they help to conduct and promote galvanic corrosion.

The only way I've inspected a radiator core is too look/feel the outside and peer down into the filler neck flash light at the inside. If you have a closed system, you might not have the filler neck on the radiator. Although you can only see a small portion of the inside top of the core, most likely the rest of the core looks just like the little portion you can see. Look for fairly clean metal that is the close to the appearance of the metal when new. If its corroded, aluminum forms a white powderish coat, with pitting, copper turns green/black that signs it might need replacing soon. As well, deposits, if you or the PO have been using tap water and not changing the coolant often it can build up and clog the system, it often forms as scale all around the openings of the cooling vanes/tubes.

I've seen all metal radiators that looked brand new after 12 years and 250k miles, if change the coolant often enough and use distilled water. Unfortunately, all the manufacturers have switched to the slightly cheaper plastic end cap radiators, which no matter how well you take care of them, the seal between the plastic end cap and the core eventually will deteriorate and leak. Nothing you can do about that, see signs of leakage or deterioration around that joint, maybe its time to replace it before it springs a leak.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rick, good to hear that radiators can get old. I think mine here is 15 years and 155k (like I said, I'm not sure). Will check that joint really careful. I have the open system. I've changed the fluid enough and never used tap water. But then, I don't have a clue what the PO did.
 
Oh really? I'm just about at a year with my AutoZone radiator. Seems to be doing fine! What happened to yours? Where did it leak? If it leaks I'm going to guess it's where the plastic tanks are crimped on.

Due to you I may just have to buy a radiator at Radiator Barn to keep on hand incase this one springs a leak :)
 
Mine have all started leaking where the tubes go into the tank plates, not at the plastic tank. They just start seeping, and I know within the next month or so I will be replacing it again. So far, this one is holding, but again, it's only been in there for 2 months.
 
I too subscribe to the "if it ain't broke....." philosophy.

Radiators typically don't fail catastrophically unless they get hit by something. They tend to develop small leaks that grow over time giving you plenty of warning. (Of course, someone will post the exception) ;)

However, the peace of mind is certainly worth it. I got my 2 core, all metal for my '88 from radiatorbarn.com. There's a thread already on here about their great customer service.
 
Do the 3 core's on radiatorbarn.com have a bigger surface area than the 2 core's?

I heard something once along the lines that a 3 core might not cool better than a 2 core if the surface area isn't larger than the 2 core, yadda yadda yadda. Makes sense! But do you know?
 
Saudade said:
I too subscribe to the "if it ain't broke....." philosophy.

Radiators typically don't fail catastrophically unless they get hit by something. They tend to develop small leaks that grow over time giving you plenty of warning. (Of course, someone will post the exception) ;)

However, the peace of mind is certainly worth it. I got my 2 core, all metal for my '88 from radiatorbarn.com. There's a thread already on here about their great customer service.
Click to expand...
Just to give you guys an update. After what Saudade mentioned about non-acute failure of the rads I kind of decided to leave it alone (it ain't broke), but alas...after that I did a last detailed check on the radiator and I found a very minor and slow leak. Nothing big, just sweating a bit (no puddles yet). In fact it may have been doing that for a while since I added just a little bit of coolant every half year or so, but I convinced myself it was nothing since I couldn't find a leak and the head gasket is fine. This probably explains that slow loss of coolant.

Anyway, so now it's broke (finally :spin1:) and I just ordered the 2-row at radiatorbarn. After all the good reports those guys were getting I gathered that be a good place to shop. It should be on its way and will put it in this weekend.

Thanks for the coaching guys!
 
Eh not long after I posted the "good news" about my year old AutoZone radiator, it developed a pressure leak. Not big enough to lose coolant, but big enough to screw up the effictiveness of the cooling system and send my temp higher.

I bought an all metal HD 3 core CSF rad from radiatorbarn.com for like $175.00 shipped. Great radiator, I must say!
 
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