• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Tube vs. Pipe for my application

HeavyMetal

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fairfield, CT
ok so ive heard every bit of recycled information every web wheeler on the planet has to say.

But does anyone with any REAL experience or knowledge share with me why sch40 should be so out of the question for my light duty "cage"?

I have a chop top XJ (stock suspension on 33x10.5s, not horribly roll-prone), which will see light wheeling at most, and the cage design is more to return rigidity to the body instead of sustaining a full fledged hard roll.

so far on pirate ive seen numerous accounts that as long as you have a sound structure/weld, it should be fine. Numerous guys saying their buggies have sustained multiple rolls with sch40 with no bad results.

only thing ive gathered is: sch40 pipe is a lot more dent resistant, as it is more rigid(which in hand causes sheering more often). and tube such as DOM will give more allowing a bend instead of a break, but only in serious cirumstances.

I just dont see how sch40 is as life threatening as people make it out to be given this circumstance. It isnt as simple as "if you use pipe you're stupid" as far as im concerned right now. perhaps someone can dispell that, or perhaps not. This would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.75"x.120 or .250 wall

notes: i am not building a moon war buggy, it is a light duty chop top weekend wheeler.

 
Last edited:
Its not life threatening in any way IMHO. I have built 3 circle track racecar cages out of 1 1/4" sch40 and 1 1/2" sch40. I have taken some serious hits on all of them with no injuries, and acceptable levels of deformation. I would build stuff out of pipe all day. I would suggest buying it from a steel yard and not Home Depot though... there are different grades of pipe.

FYI HREW and DOM are rated within 2% in strength of each other, and HREW and pipe are made using the exact same steel and processes, just different dimensions and pipe is not "officially" rated. The only pipe cages you will see fail are the ones that are very poorly designed or with very poor bends from using a crappy bender. Using a Harbor Freight bender is not the ideal way to build a cage, but if you follow some guidelines, your bends will be fine...

Straight from the Ryerson Catalog:

1.25" sch 40 pipe:
1.66 O.D.
.140 wall thickness
2.27 lbs per foot

60,000 psi tensile strength
35,000 psi yeild strength

1.5" HREW tubing:
1.5" O.D. (duh)
.156 wall thickness
2.23 lbs per foot

ASTM A513 Type 1 or 2

45,000 psi tensile strength
32,000 psi yeild strength
 
thanks for that, that is some great real world info.

its absolutely coming from a steel yard, my family owns and operates a local steel yard fabrication business. i can get all the sch40 i want for free basically
 
HeavyMetal said:
thanks for that, that is some great real world info.

its absolutely coming from a steel yard, my family owns and operates a local steel yard fabrication business. i can get all the sch40 i want for free basically
But you cant get DOM?
 
racer32 said:
Using a Harbor Freight bender is not the ideal way to build a cage, but if you follow some guidelines, your bends will be fine...

Would you care to elaborate on some of the guidelines us poor folks with the ol' pipe "crushers" could use? :laugh:
 
I haven't used pipe simply because I can get DOM and it is not too expensive. My only input would be DOM would have a higher re-sale value if you ever decide to sell it, otherwise cage design and weld quality are everything, you probably already know but try to keep the seam on the inside of the bend, obviously multi-plane bends it is not possible to have them all inside. good luck, post some progress pics.
Chris
 
steelmen said:
But you cant get DOM?
for free? No

also they dont just have DOM lying around the yard.

the whole point im asking the question is to decide whether i should spend a lot of coin and special order something. or if i can just use the sch40 thats lying around in 20 foot lengths for free, and i was tired of all the cliche' recycled answers people just give with nothing to back it up other than "its what i heard"

Skullvarian said:
I haven't used pipe simply because I can get DOM and it is not too expensive. My only input would be DOM would have a higher re-sale value if you ever decide to sell it, otherwise cage design and weld quality are everything, you probably already know but try to keep the seam on the inside of the bend, obviously multi-plane bends it is not possible to have them all inside. good luck, post some progress pics.
Chris
for sure, there will be pics and progress and all that good stuff
 
That's been hashed and re-hashed soooo many time here, there was a guy awhile ago who had alot of the same thoughts as you do, but he was gonna build his out of square tubing, because he had access to alot of it cheap.

That was a fun thread! whatever happened to that guy?

But seriously, many believe it can be done and with proper construction and welds, a strong cage can be built. Will it be as strong as DOM, probably not, would it protect you in a multiple high speed rollover end over end, no.

Will it hold up fine for 90% of the flops and mild rolls we crawlers experience, I believe so.
 
this jeep wont even be in the realm of anything high speed low drag related

no hardcore climbs, no intense rock quarrys. all of that is entirely out of the question in the scope of this build. thats the only reason i bring the question of cheap available materials into the mix
 
Georgia Mike said:
Would you care to elaborate on some of the guidelines us poor folks with the ol' pipe "crushers" could use? :laugh:
Sure-

Look at your HF dies and make sure they fit the pipe correctly. There should be no gaps anywhere around the "top" of the die @ the centerline of the pipe. If your dies fit well and you are still expreiencing some mild kinks, bend slower. If you go too fast, the pipe will kink. If worst comes to worst, cut some cap plates out of 3/16, cap one end of the pipe, fill the pipe with some good silica sand and cap the remaining end. Any shop with sandblasting supplies should have bags of good silica sand for a couple bucks a bag. Cut and fit all your intersections tight and make lots of triangles... :)
 
Back
Top