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ignition switch bad causing battery drain?

davehoose

NAXJA Forum User
Location
watertown ny
89 xj 4.0 aw4 laredo

the other day i made a 40 mile highway drive. as i was reaching my destination, the ac and radio stopped working, then started working again for about a minute then stopped for good. all the ignition on items stopped working, i.e., horn, blower, turn signals, radio etc. except backup lights (huh?). i started it just fine 5 hours later and drove home expecting to change the ignition switch. the next day the battery was completely dead. i charged it and it started right up. the next day, dead battery. i jumped it, left the lights and 4 ways on (to check the alterntor/charge system) and it was fine. battery held a charge. a few hours later, dead battery. I am hoping this is a result of the bad ignition switch, i have to change it anyway but does anyone know if this drains the battery?
also, is the yellow box underneath the ignition switch (i assume that is the cruise box)?
 
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picked up the new switch, took all the boxes out of the way under the dash and removed the dashboard - how do you get to this thing to swap it out? are they bolts, screws or nuts attaching it, maybe i can feel it out.

thanks for any help,

davehoose
 
davehoose said:
picked up the new switch, took all the boxes out of the way under the dash and removed the dashboard - how do you get to this thing to swap it out? are they bolts, screws or nuts attaching it, maybe i can feel it out.

thanks for any help,

davehoose

Yellow box is the cruise computer. Yes, if the ignition switch and harness connector get too hot and slowly melt (mine did and so have others) and the internals of the igntion switch move, partly short out, or weld in the always on, hot possition, then yes it can drain the battery with the ignition switch in the off possition and key removed.

First time I replaced mine I lowered the steering column following on line instructions (DIY autozone web site I think). The third time I learned enough to finagal my way in some what blind (since I knew where everthing was) and replace it without dropping the steering column, but it is tight and a bit trickey. Got to make sure your position it properly to get it set right so the linkage and key action work properly. There is slot under the mounting bolts that allows a little bit of front to back positioning to get it right.

I went through 2 ign switches in my 87 in 12 months and finally bypassed it to a dash toggle switch for a few high loads like the A/C blower, turn signals, radio and windshield wipers (one not large enough red wire and way too small connector for all that load, which is I think why the switch burns up), and left the rest of the small loads on the ign. switch, like ignition, and running for the engine.

I would look around for a good write up somewhere on how to drop the column, like I said I think I found my or the Do It Yourself Autozone web site, but it is a yearly dues of like $25 or so. Autozone might have it for free in their parts section, or it might even be in this forum (I never looked for it here).
 
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