BA 10/5 Fluid Change

Ok, so after searching for an hour I am posting this. What is the best way to get new fluid into BA 10/5 tranny? From underneath the space is too small to get a funnel in there. Is there a hand pump or something to get the fluid in there? I was considering a turkey baster.

Any body have a better method?

'89 XJ Lifted

put a piece of clear tubing over the pointy tip of the bottle and squeeze.....

If using above method, push tubing all the way down over pointy tip and secure tubing with a small hose clamp. That way, when you squeeze, hopefully you won't squeeze the hose right off the pointy tip.

Two easy ways to deal with filling a manual gearbox...

(Preferred) Buy a suction gun - I've posted pix here before. I know Plews (the grease gun people) makes them - I've got two of theirs.

(Alternate) Remove the fill plug and the shifter tower. Pour gear oil in through the shifter tower mount until it starts to run out the fill hole. Replace shifter tower, replace fill plug.

I don't remember how much gear oil the BA-10 wants, but I'm fairly sure it's up on my site. No real need to worry about the GL-spec - the synchronisers are aluminum, and the gears are over-hardened anyhow (I've been through four of them.)

Thanks all for your input. I was thinking about a small hose clamp for the tube method. I have visions of gear lube all over the driveway from a mighty squeeze :shhh:.

The BA 10/5 holds just under 3 litres according to another site I read. 75W-90 with a GL-5 spec.

I also like the idea of adding the oil through the shifter tower. I'll have a look and if it's not too much extra work ... I also read something that I need to get a 8mm flair nut wrench, but I'm gonna have another look before I hunt for fluid and tools I don't need today.

I will post again after the job and let you know what worked and maybe someone else will benefit from this too.

Thanks again.

The shifter tower screws want, I think, a 10m/m socket (and they number three.)

I don't see why you'd need the flare nut wrench - however, the drain and fill plugs on the BA-10/5 want an 8m/m square drive. You can make one fairly quickly by taking a cheap 8m/m hex key and simply grinding down two AND ONLY TWO opposite corners a bit - takes about five minutes or so. And, it's easier than grinding down a 3/8" drive something to fit - and cheap hex keys are considerably softer, so the grinding goes more quickly.

You don't need a lot of torque on the plugs - and I'm partial to coating the threads on pretty much all drain/fill plugs with a smear of RTV Black anyhow (makes it easier to remove next time, keeps them from vibrating loose, and drips are far less likely.) No sealer or gasket is needed to replace the shift tower, but pour slowly!

5-90 said:

- and I'm partial to coating the threads on pretty much all drain/fill plugs with a smear of RTV Black anyhow (makes it easier to remove next time, keeps them from vibrating loose, and drips are far less likely.)

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5-90 --- I can almost always learn something from your posts --
another clever idea.:cheers:

The puke-goat holds 2 &5/9 qts. By the way, how the hell do you measure a "ninth"? A "fifth" I can figure out, at least until the bottles are metric!

ren said:

The puke-goat holds 2 &5/9 qts. By the way, how the hell do you measure a "ninth"? A "fifth" I can figure out, at least until the bottles are metric!

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That's why I said to leave the drain plug out. Pour in 2-1/2 quarts, then slow way down until you get the trickle out the fill hole - and yer there!

A little overfilled isn't a problem (go to, say, 2-2/3 quarts perhaps,) but if you get a deluge when you pull the fill plug, you've got way too much and you've risked damaging the internals (too much air being beaten into the gear oil can result in spots on the gear teeth being unlubricated, and the Peugeot gears are too hard to tolerate that for too long - about 60-63HRc, as I recall. I'd have to dig up my MM&P final report to be sure... I had one torn apart anyhow at the time.)

I finally got it done. For such a simple job it actually turned into a righteous pain the butt. I had to buy a bench grinder to fab the tool for the filler plug - 8mm hex key which I had to grind to 6mm x 8mm due to some damage done by the P.O. That went well. (Ok, I didn't REALLY need to buy a bench grinder but it's a manly beast and I wanted it).

Next came the drain plug. The fabbed tool did not fit as this one was actually square. It was also so badly fused it would not budge. So out came the PB Blaster for an over-night soak. I bought an 8mm hex socket and ground it down just a hair and it fits nice and snug. Then out came the breaker bar and a little more PB Blaster. Finally got it off.

The fluid that came out was kind of a brown coffee-looking mess and looked like it was long overdue.

I used a clear hose about 10-12" long on the end of the bottle and slowly squeezed the new fluid into the filler hole. I ran a litre through and let it drain to try and flush a little more out. I then put the drain plug back in and filled it up. This worked well for me and I ended up just holding the hose on with one hand and squeezing the fluid bottles with the other. The little clamp refused to hold and was soon discarded. In all it took a little less than 3 litres to fill it.

The result is a better shifting and more responsive Jeep. I can actually get a little snap out of it in 4th gear instead of the sluggish performance it had. Feels a little smoother through the power curve too. I plan on running it for a week and then flushing it one more time to get the stuff that's stirred up and it should be good to go for a bit.

Now that I have the tools I need this will be a painless, 30 minute job start to finish.
** A note for other n00bs ...put some cardboard down on your paved driveway even if you are using a good oil pan as little mistakes can seriously make a mess on your driveway. As the oil drains it gets all over the cross member and mounts and can drip in a surprisingly wide pattern. To get gear oil out of your hair lather, rinse repeat, lather rinse, repeat...

Thanks again everyone for your feedback.
:cheers:
Next task = control arm bushings ...