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radiator cap

jelrod

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Elon NC
Ordered a new 19# radiator cap yesterday at the stealership and the dude says "it will be a week or longer till it gets here" WTF!

Anyway, just venting.
 
You know, you can order jeep parts from any DC dealer. My local dodge dealer who I started using about 3 years ago and sent all my friends to with jeeps actually keeps alot of stuff in stock now, caps, plugs, wires, filters, fuel pumps, etc. Even the local shops have started using them. The nearest jeep dealer is 30+ mi away, more in other directions.
 
Well, I have an open system 2.5L, its 16 PSI stock for me and most vehicles out there. Perhaps the closed system has different specs, but seen many posts saying to use 16 PSI on them.

What year, motor and cooling system type? They all can't be the same, because I've just shown my is different, although its far less common configuration than the most of the XJ's.
 
NapaOnline says you need a 13 PSI Cap, they have them $4.09.

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...ber=7032445&Description=Radiator+Cap+-+Retail
233094.jpg


The '95 4.0L is also a 13PSI cap, I guess the 2.5L is 16 PSI for that time and 4.0L is 13 PSI. Seen lots of people recommend going to the higher 16 PSI, it does help prevent boil over, don't know why there would be a lower pressure stock? Again this is what NAPA says is stock, they can and have been wrong.
 
I know for sure that it is not a 13#. The parts stores are incorrect. kinda like the Haynes manual says GL5 gear oil for the AX15=incorrect.
 
Stick a 13# on there and you will have cooling problems, first symptom will be an overflowing overflow tank...
 
I've got no problem with that, I agree, use at least a 16 PSI cap.

So 19 PSI is what came on the 4.0L from the factory? OR 19 PSI is what is suggested because of the boil over?
 
All my OEM caps are 16# and I have like 6 of them in my parts drawer, every 2 years x 3 jeeps....
 
Haynes says 1984 -2000 year has:

4 Cyl & V6: 12 to 15 PSI
4.0 L, Str.6: 16 to 18 PSI

And there is a debate thread going on this past week as to what the renix era plastic bottle plastic cap vent pressure is rated for!

They may have changed over the years, especially 1990 to 91, 95-96 and 2000.
 
I'll pop the hood as soon as I get home and post up what # is on there. It's been on there since I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. Who knows if or when it has been replaced.
 
Ecomike said:
Haynes says 1984 -2000 year has:

4 Cyl & V6: 12 to 15 PSI
4.0 L, Str.6: 16 to 18 PSI

And there is a debate thread going on this past week as to what the renix era plastic bottle plastic cap vent pressure is rated for!

They may have changed over the years, especially 1990 to 91, 95-96 and 2000.

I've tested four RENIX caps of varying age (NIB - 5yo,) and they all came up to 16#.

Using 16# makes some sense, since the 242 likes to run a little warm anyhow. 19# sounds severe - I'd go with a 16#, unless you were running straight water. No sense straining the system more than you have to...
 
5-90 said:
I've tested four RENIX caps of varying age (NIB - 5yo,) and they all came up to 16#.

What a novel idea :eyes:! Testing them!!!!!:laugh: 5-90 gets the award on this one!

Somebody claimed they had Renix era cap marked 6 lbs in another thread here just a few days ago. I didn't believe the 6 lbs then, and I certainly don't now.

Way to go 5-90!

I think we can put this question to rest now.
 
jelrod said:
I'll pop the hood as soon as I get home and post up what # is on there. It's been on there since I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. Who knows if or when it has been replaced.
A look under the hood confirms that I was wrong. It's a 16# cap not 19#. Sorry for the confusion.
 
RichP said:


OK, rub it in, although I have been called Mr. Gadget more than once, that is one tool I never bought. Guess I figured a new cap for $6.00 was a better deal on a test kit tool than $90, LOL:laugh3:. With my luck I'd never be able to find it when I wanted it once every couple of years.

But I must admit, it is great for testing radiators and entire cooling systems (hoses, etc) for leaks. Certainly would not run a radiator shop with out one!
 
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