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Error code "no bus"

dphillips

See,what had happened was
Location
Augusta GA
Just finished replacing the evaporator coil in my 2000xj. Now the odometer is reading no bus. Engine starts/runs fine. I can't find any loose conectors anywhere. I did all the work with the battery disconnected. When I clear the code it comes right back. Does anyone have any idea where the problem may be? :dunno:
 
Its all in the Cluster. Check Ignition Switch Output Fuse # 9 at Junction Block . If Voltage above 10 V , Check Cavity # 8 at Cluster for Battery Voltage , If OK'D , you probably need to replace Cluster . Before you replace Cluster Inspect wiring connector and put a little of Dialectric Grease in it for better connecion ,this is probably more likely the cause...
 
Make sure you did not bend any of the pins over when you plugged the cluster back into the self docking sockets. It is easy to do that if you put it in too fast.
 
Was that a hard job, just wondering I have to do mine. Did you remove the dash board or just turn it to get the evaporator box out.

Are there any parts that should also be changed when you replace the evaporator like the dryer or anything else. What parts did you buy for the job.

what brand evaporator did you use.

Thanks

Jeff S
 
Not sure if I would say it's extremely hard, it's not very easy though. On a scale of 1-10 I'd give it a 7.5. It was more time consuming than anything else. It took a good 4hrs just to disasemble the dash and get the box out. Two of the five studs in the engine compartment are almost impossible to get at.
I buy parts like that from NAPA (not sure of the actual brand). I figure it's worth a litle extra if I don't have to do it again because of cheap parts falling apart or not fitting right. It's not a bad idea to go ahead and change out the heater core at the same time if you can.
 
broadwaystatge said:
Was that a hard job, just wondering I have to do mine.
Not to get too far off topic but I too needed to replace my evap core 2 summers ago in my 97. I chose to put it off a few months and continued to recharge the leaking system (once every 3 weeks) when someone suggested using a recharge kit WITH sealant. After two more charges, I haven't needed to add anything since and that was two years ago this July.
 
you can also just smack the cluster a little bit when its started nad most likely the gauges will come back on. I had this problem before and I cleaned the connections with electrical cleaner and put it all back together no problems since
 
Well the code went away. All I did was disconnect the gauge cluster and connect it again. Looked fine all weekend. Hopefully I'm done now.

:clap:
 
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