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Great Stripper!!

R

Rocketman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bolingbrook, IL
Can anyone suggest a good stripper for getting old paint and crud off of my new/old D44 carcass?

I want to do the spray or brush it on, and rinse it off with a hose routine if possible. Wire wheel the rusty spots then prime and paint. I may Naval Jelly the tubes after stripping to convert some of the old rust. The pumpkin is in great shape actually. POR15 products are also high on my list.

EDIT: Just read about RemovAll Metal Strip. (bio-degradable) ANYONE?
 
Last edited:
J-Roc said:
you could try aluminum air craft stripper, that shit will eat anything that isn't steel
Click to expand...

Yea, I found that out when I was doing a bumper and got some of the back spray on my arms....as I flapped my way to the garden hose on the side of the house... don't use it when it's windy... If I use it again I'll get the brush on stuff.
 
well I know one that can suck chrome off a trailer hitch if that helps any?
 
ROBERTK said:
well I know one that can suck chrome off a trailer hitch if that helps any?
Click to expand...
Thats only an 'OK' one, a GOOD ONE can put the chrome back on with the exhale...
 
Rocketman said:
Can anyone suggest a good stripper for getting old paint and crud off of my new/old D44 carcass?

I want to do the spray or brush it on, and rinse it off with a hose routine if possible. Wire wheel the rusty spots then prime and paint. I may Naval Jelly the tubes after stripping to convert some of the old rust. The pumpkin is in great shape actually. POR15 products are also high on my list.

EDIT: Just read about RemovAll Metal Strip. (bio-degradable) ANYONE?
Click to expand...

I bought a hp dana 44, it was a 30 year old mess of grease and rust. I took it in and had it sand blasted for $60. When I picked it up it was like new. It looked so good all shinny that I hated to paint it. It was worth it in my opinion.

BTW, they wouldn't take it with grease and oil on it something about clogging up their media which they recycle. So I took it to a do-it-yourself car wash, sprayed with engine degreaser and washed it, then took it back to them.
 
I just called a couple places for the same price. Besides getting it really ready for the new shock mounts it would make painting so much easier.

SOLD... on this idea!
 
If you plan on doing more welding on you heep get to harbor frieght and buy thier portable 40# sand blaster it's like $30 plus 10-20 for glass beads or sand and youll be able to do mor ein the future. Ive used mine way more than I thought I would
 
How well does that thing actually work?
 
You need a big air compressor to sand blast. If you don't have a big compressor use full strength, full smell oven cleaner. It's lye and with enough time it will eat all the paint and crud off.
 
Can you define "BIG"...

Are you talking about an 80 gallon or a 30-40 gallon?

Or are you talking about the motor?

Stumpalump said:
You need a big air compressor to sand blast. If you don't have a big compressor use full strength, full smell oven cleaner. It's lye and with enough time it will eat all the paint and crud off.
Click to expand...
 
kewlkatdady said:
Can you define "BIG"...

Are you talking about an 80 gallon or a 30-40 gallon?

Or are you talking about the motor?
Click to expand...
It all depends on the size of your sand blaster. I had a nice small TIP unit and my 25 gal. real 5 HP unit could not keep up. If I let it build up I could blast not even as fast as you can air brush. They all use a lot of air non-stop. The set-up I had would have taken 5 hours plus to do a half azz job on somthing the size of an axel. For door ding rust it was fine. Have you ever seen the locomotive size compressors and blasting units they use to blast bridges? I would think an 80 galon 220 volt type compressor would not overheat and run out of air too fast but you still would need a super dry source of blasting media and a presurized unit. Don't even consider a siphone fed unit because they blow mostly air and clog with humidity.
 
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